December 17 and 18, 2023

Moore Haven Lock

We finally have a weather window to leave Moore Haven. We head for Roland Martin Marina and Resort in Clewiston. Three more locks to go before home. Today is Moore Haven Lock; tomorrow Port Mayaca and St. Lucie Locks. (We will discover there is also a lock at Clewiston. This is just a flood control lock to make sure Clewiston doesn’t get flooded.)

Rim Canal and the Okeechobee Waterway

We exit the Moore Haven Lock and are traveling the Rim Canal. The Rim Canal is a 15.2 mile stream. It came about because of a dike that had to be constructed.

History of the Rim Canal – and Okeechobee Waterway

In 1926, the Great Miami Hurricane hit the Lake Okeechobee area, killing approximately 300 people. Two years later in 1928, the Okeechobee Hurricane crossed over the lake, killing thousands. The Red Cross reported 1,836 deaths, a figure which the National Weather Service initially accepted, but in 2003, the number was revised to “at least 2,500”.

In both cases the catastrophe was caused by flooding from a storm surge when strong winds drove water over the 6.6-foot mud dike that circled the lake at the time. After the two hurricanes, the Florida State Legislature created the “Okeechobee Flood Control District”.

Enter the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers

The organization was authorized to cooperate with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in actions to prevent similar disasters. U.S. President Herbert Hoover visited the area personally. The Corps designed a plan incorporating the construction of channels, gates, and nearly 140 miles of levees to protect areas surrounding Lake Okeechobee from overflow.

The Okeechobee Waterway was officially opened on March 23, 1937, by a procession of boats which left Fort Myers, Florida, on March 22 and arrived Stuart, Florida, the following day. The dike was then named the “Herbert Hoover Dike” in honor of the president.

More Hurricanes Hit

The 1946 Fort Lauderdale Hurricane sent an even larger storm surge to the crest of the new dike, which was expanded again in the 1960s.

Four recent hurricanes – Frances (August, 2004), Jeanne (September, 2004), Wilma (October, 2005) and Irma (September, 2017) – had no major adverse effects on communities surrounding Lake Okeechobee, even though the lake rose 18 inches after Hurricane Wilma. Hurricane Ernesto (August, 2006) increased water levels by 12 inches, the last time the lake exceeded 13 feet. 

However, the lake’s level began dropping soon after and by July 2007, it had dropped more than 4 feet to an all-time low of 8.82 feet. In August 2008, Tropical Storm Fay increased water levels to 2 feet above sea level, the first time it exceeded 12 feet since January 2007. Over a seven-day period (including some storms that preceded Fay), about 8 inches of rain fell directly onto the lake.

The Rim Canal

During construction of the dike, earth was excavated along the inside perimeter, resulting in a deep channel which runs along the perimeter of the lake. This channel is known as the Rim Canal. In most places the canal is part of the lake, but in others it is separated from the open lake by low grassy islands such as Kreamer Island.

During the drought of 2007–2008, this canal remained navigable while much of surrounding areas were too shallow or even above the water line. Even when the waters are higher, navigating the open lake can be difficult, whereas the Rim Canal is easier.

Clewiston Lock

We traveled across Lake Okeechobee some ten years ago, when we did the “Little Loop.” We had forgotten there is a lock at Clewiston that you have to enter just before you arrive at the Roland Martin Marina.

The first three locks west of Lake Okeechobee bring the water up. The last two locks east (Port Mayaca and St. Lucie locks) bring the water down. You start off at sea level and end up at sea level. We will discover the St. Lucie lock has a big drop – 18 feet!

Roland Martin Marina & Fishing Resort

Roland Martin Marina has a reputation like no other marina. We laugh at its moniker of “Resort,” remembering our last visit. We recall a run down bar and restaurant, and loud country music playing late into the night.

Another memory from our last visit: we ventured out in our inflatable raft that we owned at the time. Some guy on the dock yells at us “No! No! Don’t go out there in that!”

We are confused and ask why?

“There are alligators out there that will chew right through that raft!”

We scurried back to Sunshine.

Meet Captain Sam

Captain Sam (he really is a Captain, and everyone refers to him as “Captain Sam”) is the face of Roland Martin’s. Captain Pat has been talking to Captain Sam the last few days to get updates on the weather situation on Lake Okeechobee.

We enter the marina, looking for where to dock, and there is Captain Sam. We recognize him immediately. Short of stature, large in personality. He directs us to our slip and gives us the rundown on the marina.

Later, the Admiral finds out Captain Sam is from her home state – Kentucky! He grew up in Fancy Farm, Kentucky.

We are soon pleasantly surprised at the newness of this marina. It has been completely renovated. It now is more like a resort – albeit a fishing one. It is known as the bass fishing capital of the world.

There is a large ship store; clean, modern laundry and bath facility; tiki bar and restaurant. Live country music is playing in the bar, and the band is a talented one.

Meet Dog, the Cat

Captain Sam is sitting outside the office, stroking a kitty cat.

I comment,

“What a cute kitty! What’s his name?”

“Dog.”

“Dog?” (Reminds me of the Kenny Rogers song ‘A Boy Named Sue.”

“Yep. I don’t like cats. So this is Dog. Let me tell you the story of Dog.”

“One day this cat comes to me. He’s scrawny and thin. There’s a string around his neck. I get closer and realize, it’s a snake! I grab the snake and throw it in the water. I tell that cat, don’t you ever bring me a water moccasin. “

“A woman working here told me when a cat brings you something (lizard, bird, mouse) it’s a gift to you. And it brings good luck. So I decided to keep the cat. Named him “Dog.”

“He acts just like a dog. Follows me everywhere. If I ever leave here, I’ll have to take him with me. No one will take care of him like I do.”

I think Dog is one lucky little cat.

Once in a Blue Moon

The boat docked behind us is a 58-foot Fleming Yacht – she is stunning. Looking out the back of Sunshine, all you see is the massive bow of that boat, named Blue Moon. We learn it belongs to an 80-year-old named Steve and his wife Judy.

Captain Pat and Steve chat it up on the dock. We learn his wife Judy is in a wheelchair. Steve is commanding that boat solo, and taking care of Judy as well. He asks us if we would like to come aboard and see Blue Moon from the inside. Of course!

Steve explains he had the boat custom built in Taiwan. The incredible attention to detail shows in her design. Usually, the teak paneling inside a yacht runs vertically. In this yacht it runs horizontally. The woodwork is craftsman quality. But what really catches my attention is the countertop in the galley. I’ve never seen anything like it.

Steve asks us to guess what it is. I guess some type of shell, like a nautilus. He says I am close – it is a fossil. It is crystal, sliced, and then covered with a resin. To add to its lustre, lighting was installed underneath the counter, that shines through when you flip a switch. Amazing.

We go upstairs to visit the wheelhouse. Captain Pat is drooling.

I’m loving that color of blue on his Stidd captain’s seat! The yacht’s interior color scheme is all variations of shades of blue – to go with her name ‘Blue Moon.‘

All the controls are activated by the touch of Steve’s hands. The electronics are beyond amazing. Steve monitors the boat via live cameras set up throughout the boat.

We can now understand how Steve can handle the boat solo -albeit still a challenge. To give you perspective – Sunshine weighs 20,000 pounds. Blue Moon weighs 120,000 pounds! Going through the locks (or anywhere needed), Steve presses a button and the boat is geo positioned, and will not move. Incredible.

We then descend to the lower level where the three staterooms and accompanying bathrooms are located. Again, exquisite design – all the comforts of home.

Later Steve comes to our boat to visit. He tells us the story of how he came to get this boat. I ask permission to write about him in my blog, and he says ok. His story is inspirational.

As a kid growing up in Omaha, Nebraska (yes, he has met Warren Buffet) Steve would visit the local airport. He was impressed by the pilots’ commanding stature as they descended the plane, with their proud uniforms shouldering epaulets. He wants to be a pilot. However, he is 5’2″ and there is a height restriction. So he decides to join the Air Force. There he encounters the same restriction.

Undaunted, he goes to college and also gets his pilot’s license. He builds a business that provides asphalt and highways to over five states. To satisfy his craving for piloting, Steve purchases a “warbird,” a plane that flies in air shows.

When Steve retires at 65, he and wife Judy move to Pompano Beach, and he buys a six-passenger plane. They travel the world, visiting over 100 countries, and crossing the Atlantic twice.

At 70 Steve can no longer keep his pilot’s license – age restriction. So, he purchases a boat – a Krogen Express. He eventually upgrades to the Fleming – Blue Moon. Steve and Judy are loving their adventures on the water.

On a boating excursion to Washington, D.C., Steve notices a change in Judy. They are on the Potomac River. Steve asks Judy to throw him a line.

She can’t. Her arm won’t move.

Many tests later they discover Judy has a type of Parkinson’s. But they don’t let that get them down. They have the Fleming yacht custom built in Taiwan, and embark on the Great Loop! They have been traveling about a year, and will cross their wake shortly after us.

Sure, Blue Moon is stunning. However – it’s Steve’s diligent care of Judy that is so impressive. Such dedication. He wakes her up, helps her dress, gets her breakfast and then gets her settled in the salon. In between he is captaining Blue Moon, and checking in on Judy! Quite remarkable.

Judy is quite comfortable in the salon, reading, on her laptop, or watching television. I so enjoyed talking with her when we visited.

I feel so fortunate we got to meet Steve and Judy – on our last days of the Loop! We will keep in touch once back in Florida.

Early Morning Breakfast and Departure to Lake Okeechobee!

Monday, December 18, we are excited. It looks like a go to cross Lake Okeechobee! We will be in Stuart, Florida, tonight. So close to home.

We take Steve to breakfast at the restaurant, pack up and head to the Clewiston Lock to then enter Lake Okeechobee. So excited!

Here are photos of our visit to Roland Martin’s Marina and Resort: