Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure

Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure

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Follow along our Great Loop journey!

  • Two Crossings – Lake Okeechobee and Our Wake!

    December 28, 2023

    December 18 and 19, 2023

    December 19 – The Captain and the Admiral – Sunshine is home!

    Finally we cross Lake Okeechobee!

    After waiting a week for a weather window – it finally happens. We leave Roland Martin’s Marina and Resort in Clewiston the morning of Monday, December 18. We enjoy a breakfast at the Resort with our new friend, Steve, on Once in a Blue Moon. Steve takes breakfast back to his boat for his wife, Judy.

    We bid Captain Sam good-bye and off we go. First stop is the Clewiston lock, just down from the marina.

    The Clewiston Lock looks big in this aerial shot.
    It is the smallest lock chamber (only 70 feet long) we encounter on the Loop.

    We make it through the lock easily and into Lake Okeechobee. The water chop is not too bad, so it’s an ok ride aboard Sunshine.

    Port Mayaca Lock

    Our next lock is Port Mayaca, located on the east side of Lake Okeechobee at the junction with the St. Lucie Canal. This lock proves to be one of the most challenging – and here we are, so close to home! The waters come rushing in as we enter the lock, and Captain Pat has a devil of a time controlling the boat. Finally we make it to the wall, grab our lines and secure to the cleats on the boat to hold for leverage.

    Entering Port Mayaca Lock
    Exiting Port Mayaca Lock

    As we proceed down the St. Lucie Canal we are amazed to see such big boats (more like ships.)

    Huge ship on St. Lucie Canal
    The name of this boat is “Package Deal” – indeed!

    St. Lucie Lock

    Now the Admiral is getting very excited. Why? We are approaching the St. Lucie Lock – our last lock on the Loop! Yahoo!

    As luck would have it, there is a wait – about 45 minutes. Boats are going in both directions, so we have to wait our turn in line. We are waiting with one other boat.

    Approaching the St. Lucie Lock
    Waiting with this boat outside St. Lucie Lock
    The St. Lucie Lock – our final lock on the Great Loop!

    On to Stuart

    Now that we have the locks behind us, we can focus on our next journey marker – Stuart. We discuss staying at Sunset Bay Marina. We have stayed there a few times, the last time being 2019, and enjoyed the marina and the town of Stuart. We are surprised the rates have changed. A 40-foot minimum is now required for dockage payment and the overnight rate is $5/foot, with the cancellation policy 48 hours. All other marinas are 24 hours. You never know what weather awaits you until you wake up. We decide to forego Sunset Bay to head farther north, and maybe even make it to Boca Raton tomorrow!

    Approaching Stuart – so many sailboats!
    The Stuart bridge – we are getting closer to home!

    By sunset we are up the Indian River to an anchorage called Lemon Island. There are several boats there – a good sign. We anchor with no problem. It’s a nice night with calm weather. Perfect for our last sunset on Sunshine on the Great Loop!

    Sailboats anchored near Sunshine

    December 19 – The Day We Cross Our Wake!

    This is the day Sunshine will cross her wake, if all goes well. Technically, some would say she crossed her wake going through Stuart, Florida. But we are opting to say she will cross when she lands in her home port, behind our home in Boca Raton.

    Last sunrise on Sunshine on the Loop

    We awaken to another glorious sunrise – our last one on Sunshine, on the Loop. We make our way down the intracoastal with Boca Raton as our destination. Our arrival time is predicted to be around 3 p.m.

    The first boat we see as we leave is this grounded sailboat.
    We ask if he needs help.
    He says no, he will just wait for the tide to change.

    It’s so interesting to be back on our old familiar turf – or waves, I should say. We see significant changes. We haven’t boated here for some time, as Sunshine spent last winter in Penetanguishene, Ontario, and previous to our leaving for the Loop in May of 2022 she was out of commission getting in tip top ship shape for her journey.

    There are barges outside of Peanut Island where you can tie up your boat. And tiki bar boats offering food and beverages. There are also ships, cranes, and loading docks.

    ‘Margaritaville’ Cruise Ship
    ‘Kentucky Belle’ – now that’s a beautiful boat!
    I look her up online, and discover she is a charter boat.
    You can charter her for a mere $36,000/week, plus expenses.
    She sleeps six.
    We see so many sailboats.

    We stop for diesel at Two George’s in Boynton Beach, as they sell ValvTect, only to discover they do not do pumpouts. So now we have to make a second stop. We don’t – the Captain decides he will do the pump out later. The Admiral is happy.

    Those Pesky Bridges

    We phone our friend Patty Eckert, as she lives on the canal near us. Patty kindly snapped a photo of us when we passed her home, the day we departed on the Loop. We think it would be great to get a similar photo on our return home. Today we text back and forth with Patty as to our expected arrival.

    We always have to watch the tides when returning on Sunshine to our home. There is one fixed bridge with a close clearance. We usually take the radar equipment down.

    As we approach Dixie Highway, so close to entering the canal to our home, we are surprised. Sunshine can’t clear the Dixie Highway bridge. This has never happened!

    Of course, it would happen today!

    Sunshine approaching the Dixie Highway bridge.

    We can’t believe our luck! But again, it is par for the course. We tie up at Pioneer Park, near the boat ramp. And wait.

    Sunshine tied up to the dock at Pioneer Park in Deerfield Beach.

    We phone Patty and tell her to forget the photo. She offers to come pick me up and take me home! Of course the Admiral is not leaving Sunshine, this close to crossing her wake.

    Captain Pat checks the tide charts and calculates we can probably leave in two hours. This puts us home around 5 p.m.

    Captain Pat also calls our neighbor, Jim, to ask if he can come to Sunshine and ride with us back to the house. We need another set of eyes to gage the bridge height. Jim has this same issue when boating with his Boston Whaler. Jim comes to the rescue – he helps us all the time. We are fortunate to have such kind and helpful neighbors.

    The Captain waiting patiently on Sunshine.

    Finally we think it is ok to try this again. So under the bridge we go.

    The culprit bridge is the third one, the lowest one behind the two top blue bridges.

    Yeah! We make it. We clear the bridge and wind our way back home to our dock.

    Jim is kind enough to catch our arrival home on video!

    The Captain and Admiral arrive home!

    We have officially completed the Great Loop!

    We traveled 6,046 miles over ten months, and consumed 2,717 gallons of diesel fuel! Stay tuned for future blog posts to give you our reflections and statistics on this amazing journey of a lifetime.

    And thank you for following our blog, and for all of your prayers and support! We appreciate it more than you know.

    Thank you!

    Captain Pat and Admiral Cindy on Sunshine – “the little boat who could.”

  • Roland Martin Marina & Fishing Resort – Clewiston, Florida

    December 20, 2023

    December 17 and 18, 2023

    Captain Pat with his new buddies – Captain Sam and Captain Steve
    at the Roland Martin Marina & Fishing Resort

    Moore Haven Lock

    We finally have a weather window to leave Moore Haven. We head for Roland Martin Marina and Resort in Clewiston. Three more locks to go before home. Today is Moore Haven Lock; tomorrow Port Mayaca and St. Lucie Locks. (We will discover there is also a lock at Clewiston. This is just a flood control lock to make sure Clewiston doesn’t get flooded.)

    Entry to Moore Haven Lock.
    Sunshine approaching the Moore Haven Lock.
    Lock hours are only 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Last lock at 4:30 p.m.
    There are always so many birds on the pilings leading to the locks.
    These are double-crested cormorants – seabirds often thought to be ducks.
    They dive in for fish.

    Rim Canal and the Okeechobee Waterway

    Traveling the Rim Canal

    We exit the Moore Haven Lock and are traveling the Rim Canal. The Rim Canal is a 15.2 mile stream. It came about because of a dike that had to be constructed.

    History of the Rim Canal – and Okeechobee Waterway

    In 1926, the Great Miami Hurricane hit the Lake Okeechobee area, killing approximately 300 people. Two years later in 1928, the Okeechobee Hurricane crossed over the lake, killing thousands. The Red Cross reported 1,836 deaths, a figure which the National Weather Service initially accepted, but in 2003, the number was revised to “at least 2,500”.

    In both cases the catastrophe was caused by flooding from a storm surge when strong winds drove water over the 6.6-foot mud dike that circled the lake at the time. After the two hurricanes, the Florida State Legislature created the “Okeechobee Flood Control District”.

    Enter the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers

    The organization was authorized to cooperate with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in actions to prevent similar disasters. U.S. President Herbert Hoover visited the area personally. The Corps designed a plan incorporating the construction of channels, gates, and nearly 140 miles of levees to protect areas surrounding Lake Okeechobee from overflow.

    Lake Okeechobee and surrounding towns

    The Okeechobee Waterway was officially opened on March 23, 1937, by a procession of boats which left Fort Myers, Florida, on March 22 and arrived Stuart, Florida, the following day. The dike was then named the “Herbert Hoover Dike” in honor of the president.

    More Hurricanes Hit

    The 1946 Fort Lauderdale Hurricane sent an even larger storm surge to the crest of the new dike, which was expanded again in the 1960s.

    Four recent hurricanes – Frances (August, 2004), Jeanne (September, 2004), Wilma (October, 2005) and Irma (September, 2017) – had no major adverse effects on communities surrounding Lake Okeechobee, even though the lake rose 18 inches after Hurricane Wilma. Hurricane Ernesto (August, 2006) increased water levels by 12 inches, the last time the lake exceeded 13 feet. 

    However, the lake’s level began dropping soon after and by July 2007, it had dropped more than 4 feet to an all-time low of 8.82 feet. In August 2008, Tropical Storm Fay increased water levels to 2 feet above sea level, the first time it exceeded 12 feet since January 2007. Over a seven-day period (including some storms that preceded Fay), about 8 inches of rain fell directly onto the lake.

    The Rim Canal

    During construction of the dike, earth was excavated along the inside perimeter, resulting in a deep channel which runs along the perimeter of the lake. This channel is known as the Rim Canal. In most places the canal is part of the lake, but in others it is separated from the open lake by low grassy islands such as Kreamer Island.

    During the drought of 2007–2008, this canal remained navigable while much of surrounding areas were too shallow or even above the water line. Even when the waters are higher, navigating the open lake can be difficult, whereas the Rim Canal is easier.

    Clewiston Lock

    We traveled across Lake Okeechobee some ten years ago, when we did the “Little Loop.” We had forgotten there is a lock at Clewiston that you have to enter just before you arrive at the Roland Martin Marina.

    The first three locks west of Lake Okeechobee bring the water up. The last two locks east (Port Mayaca and St. Lucie locks) bring the water down. You start off at sea level and end up at sea level. We will discover the St. Lucie lock has a big drop – 18 feet!

    Roland Martin Marina & Fishing Resort

    Captain Pat meets Captain Sam

    Roland Martin Marina has a reputation like no other marina. We laugh at its moniker of “Resort,” remembering our last visit. We recall a run down bar and restaurant, and loud country music playing late into the night.

    Another memory from our last visit: we ventured out in our inflatable raft that we owned at the time. Some guy on the dock yells at us “No! No! Don’t go out there in that!”

    We are confused and ask why?

    “There are alligators out there that will chew right through that raft!”

    We scurried back to Sunshine.

    Meet Captain Sam

    Captain Sam (he really is a Captain, and everyone refers to him as “Captain Sam”) is the face of Roland Martin’s. Captain Pat has been talking to Captain Sam the last few days to get updates on the weather situation on Lake Okeechobee.

    We enter the marina, looking for where to dock, and there is Captain Sam. We recognize him immediately. Short of stature, large in personality. He directs us to our slip and gives us the rundown on the marina.

    These two become best buddies. Captain Pat likes people from Kentucky!

    Later, the Admiral finds out Captain Sam is from her home state – Kentucky! He grew up in Fancy Farm, Kentucky.

    We are soon pleasantly surprised at the newness of this marina. It has been completely renovated. It now is more like a resort – albeit a fishing one. It is known as the bass fishing capital of the world.

    Scoreboard for the Fishing Tournament

    There is a large ship store; clean, modern laundry and bath facility; tiki bar and restaurant. Live country music is playing in the bar, and the band is a talented one.

    Meet Dog, the Cat

    Captain Sam is sitting outside the office, stroking a kitty cat.

    His left ear is clipped. When feral cats are trapped and fixed, one ear is clipped to denote that they are fixed..

    I comment,

    “What a cute kitty! What’s his name?”

    “Dog.”

    “Dog?” (Reminds me of the Kenny Rogers song ‘A Boy Named Sue.”

    “Yep. I don’t like cats. So this is Dog. Let me tell you the story of Dog.”

    “One day this cat comes to me. He’s scrawny and thin. There’s a string around his neck. I get closer and realize, it’s a snake! I grab the snake and throw it in the water. I tell that cat, don’t you ever bring me a water moccasin. “

    “A woman working here told me when a cat brings you something (lizard, bird, mouse) it’s a gift to you. And it brings good luck. So I decided to keep the cat. Named him “Dog.”

    “He acts just like a dog. Follows me everywhere. If I ever leave here, I’ll have to take him with me. No one will take care of him like I do.”

    I think Dog is one lucky little cat.

    Dog the cat.

    Once in a Blue Moon

    The boat docked behind us is a 58-foot Fleming Yacht – she is stunning. Looking out the back of Sunshine, all you see is the massive bow of that boat, named Blue Moon. We learn it belongs to an 80-year-old named Steve and his wife Judy.

    Captain Pat and Steve chat it up on the dock. We learn his wife Judy is in a wheelchair. Steve is commanding that boat solo, and taking care of Judy as well. He asks us if we would like to come aboard and see Blue Moon from the inside. Of course!

    Steve explains he had the boat custom built in Taiwan. The incredible attention to detail shows in her design. Usually, the teak paneling inside a yacht runs vertically. In this yacht it runs horizontally. The woodwork is craftsman quality. But what really catches my attention is the countertop in the galley. I’ve never seen anything like it.

    Galley countertop in Blue Moon

    Steve asks us to guess what it is. I guess some type of shell, like a nautilus. He says I am close – it is a fossil. It is crystal, sliced, and then covered with a resin. To add to its lustre, lighting was installed underneath the counter, that shines through when you flip a switch. Amazing.

    Blue Moon’s galley. The photo doesn’t capture the elegance.

    We go upstairs to visit the wheelhouse. Captain Pat is drooling.

    Steve showing us the control panels in the wheelhouse.
    There are five helms on the boat – different places Steve can maneuver the boat from.

    I’m loving that color of blue on his Stidd captain’s seat! The yacht’s interior color scheme is all variations of shades of blue – to go with her name ‘Blue Moon.‘

    All the controls are activated by the touch of Steve’s hands. The electronics are beyond amazing. Steve monitors the boat via live cameras set up throughout the boat.

    We can now understand how Steve can handle the boat solo -albeit still a challenge. To give you perspective – Sunshine weighs 20,000 pounds. Blue Moon weighs 120,000 pounds! Going through the locks (or anywhere needed), Steve presses a button and the boat is geo positioned, and will not move. Incredible.

    We then descend to the lower level where the three staterooms and accompanying bathrooms are located. Again, exquisite design – all the comforts of home.

    Later Steve comes to our boat to visit. He tells us the story of how he came to get this boat. I ask permission to write about him in my blog, and he says ok. His story is inspirational.

    As a kid growing up in Omaha, Nebraska (yes, he has met Warren Buffet) Steve would visit the local airport. He was impressed by the pilots’ commanding stature as they descended the plane, with their proud uniforms shouldering epaulets. He wants to be a pilot. However, he is 5’2″ and there is a height restriction. So he decides to join the Air Force. There he encounters the same restriction.

    Undaunted, he goes to college and also gets his pilot’s license. He builds a business that provides asphalt and highways to over five states. To satisfy his craving for piloting, Steve purchases a “warbird,” a plane that flies in air shows.

    When Steve retires at 65, he and wife Judy move to Pompano Beach, and he buys a six-passenger plane. They travel the world, visiting over 100 countries, and crossing the Atlantic twice.

    At 70 Steve can no longer keep his pilot’s license – age restriction. So, he purchases a boat – a Krogen Express. He eventually upgrades to the Fleming – Blue Moon. Steve and Judy are loving their adventures on the water.

    On a boating excursion to Washington, D.C., Steve notices a change in Judy. They are on the Potomac River. Steve asks Judy to throw him a line.

    She can’t. Her arm won’t move.

    Many tests later they discover Judy has a type of Parkinson’s. But they don’t let that get them down. They have the Fleming yacht custom built in Taiwan, and embark on the Great Loop! They have been traveling about a year, and will cross their wake shortly after us.

    Sure, Blue Moon is stunning. However – it’s Steve’s diligent care of Judy that is so impressive. Such dedication. He wakes her up, helps her dress, gets her breakfast and then gets her settled in the salon. In between he is captaining Blue Moon, and checking in on Judy! Quite remarkable.

    Judy is quite comfortable in the salon, reading, on her laptop, or watching television. I so enjoyed talking with her when we visited.

    I feel so fortunate we got to meet Steve and Judy – on our last days of the Loop! We will keep in touch once back in Florida.

    Early Morning Breakfast and Departure to Lake Okeechobee!

    Monday, December 18, we are excited. It looks like a go to cross Lake Okeechobee! We will be in Stuart, Florida, tonight. So close to home.

    We take Steve to breakfast at the restaurant, pack up and head to the Clewiston Lock to then enter Lake Okeechobee. So excited!

    Captain Pat and Steve, after breakfast at the lodge. Steve is bringing breakfast back to Judy.

    Here are photos of our visit to Roland Martin’s Marina and Resort:

    Alligator and swamp display in the boat store.
    Blue Moon leaving for the Clewiston Lock
    Captain Pat walking past Captain Sam’s sailboat.
    Captain Sam’s sailboat
    Captain Sam’s Red Truck
    He’s a proud veteran.
    Christmas Tree in the restaurant. I love the tree topper – an owl!
    View of park from rooftop of Blue Moon. Dogs playing.
    White crane surveying for fish.
    Steve and Patrick walking back to their respective boats.
    Up close to this crane.
    Roland Martin Marina & Resort
    Operations Office of U.S. Corp of Engineers
    Sunrise
    Sunrise
    View from rooftop of Blue Moon. There is the Clewiston Lock.
    Another rooftop view
    Good bye Roland Martin Marina & Resort!
  • LaBelle and Moore Haven, Florida

    December 18, 2023

    Trying to get to Lake Okeechobee!

    December 10 – 17, 2023

    We are feeling great. Sunshine’s port engine is up and running thanks to Frank. We leave Port Sanibel Marina, headed for the Franklin Lock, the first of five locks as we journey the Lake Okeechobee Waterway.

    Lake Okeechobee – the blue in the middle of this map

    About the Lake Okeechobee Waterway

    The Great Loop route across the Okeechobee Waterway is 154 miles. A series of five locks help you through this inland waterway across the lower peninsula of Florida.

    The locks are: Franklin, Ortona, Moore Haven, Port Mayaca, and St. Lucie.

    The canal depth of the waterway is approximately eight feet, and the width of the canal varies from 80 to 100 feet.

    Loopers access the waterway from the Gulf ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) at Ft. Myers. This route shortens your trip to the east coast bypassing the Florida Keys.

    Lake Okeechobee is the second largest freshwater Lake entirely in the United States. It is second only to Lake Michigan. Of course, this is because the other Great Lakes share borders with Canada.

    Lake Okeechobee is 30 miles wide from east to west. There are two routes across Lake Okeechobee. The most direct is the “open water Route 1;” the other is the Rim Route 2. There is only 11 miles difference between the two routes.

    The Rim Route offers more protection from winds and choppy waters, but it takes more than an hour longer. On either route, we are told Clewiston is a worthwhile stop, as it offers Roland Martin’s Marina.

    Departing Port Sanibel Marina – Ft. Myers

    Pelicans sleeping outside of our boat

    As we contemplate leaving Port Sanibel Marina, Captain Pat remembers the shallow channel and the misleading markers we will have to take. At the dock our two guys about to leave in their fishing boat. They appear to be locals.

    Captain Pat asks them if we can follow them out of the marina. They of course oblige. We are grateful to follow in their wake.

    Following the local fishermen out the channel

    We make it to the Caloosahatchee River safely and are saddened by the devastation of Hurricane Ian that hit Ft. Myers a year ago September.

    The city docks are flattened and there are still boats submerged.

    The City Docks at Ft. Myers

    Franklin Lock

    We enter a “slow speed, manatee zone” and are on the lookout –  but no manatees. There is a plant nearby, the manatees like the water that it supplies.

    We radio the Franklin Lock and learn we have to wait for a tug who is exiting the Lock.

    Approaching Franklin Lock
    Tug departing Franklin Lock

    This lock is so much easier than the river locks. It is smaller and you use their lines. The woman lockmaster is friendly and gives us a list of places we can stay along the Caloosahatchee River.

    She also tells us that in the future locks it is best if we hook our line on a cleat (don’t tie off, just hold) for leverage. The next lock will have several feet of water pouring in fast. We thank her for her useful information.

    LaBelle City Dock

    We are making great time so we decide to keep going and get a dock slip at the LaBelle City Dock. We call and learn you reserve on Dockwa. These slips used to be free. Now it is $30/night. Still a bargain, with electricity and water.

    Thank goodness as we approach our slip there are two boaters there to help. We have to dock bow in, and for the first time there is not a dock on our right or left. So to exit the boat we have to jump off the bow onto the dock. I am glad there are no photos of the Admiral doing this. It is not pretty. But doable.

    Sunshine docked at LaBelle City Docks

    Mother Nature Strikes Again

    As luck would have it – the winds are back with a vengeance. So much so we cannot cross Lake Okeechobee until next week! This is not comforting news.

    We can only stay at the LaBelle City docks for three nights. That is their limit – no exceptions. We make reservations for Wednesday through Saturday at the Riverhouse Marina in Moore Haven. We hope to be in Clewiston – Roland Martin’s Marina – on Sunday. This is the last stop before crossing Lake Okeechobee.

    The City of LaBelle

    Our fellow boaters at the marina tell us there is a coffee shop, a grocery, the post office, and a restaurant all within walking distance of the marina. This is good news.

    I take a walk and the first thing I notice is the Spanish Moss hanging from the trees. It is neither Spanish nor a moss – so its name is misleading. It looks mysterious and intriguing to me.

    Spanish Moss Trees

    I discover that there is an abundance of fast food restaurants – McDonald’s, Burger King, Taco Bell, Little Caesar’s – even a Dunkin’ Donuts further down the Highway!

    The coffee shop turns out to be my writing haven for the next two days. It is cozy and the staff are welcoming.

    La Belle Coffee Shop
    This coffee shop makes you feel at home.

    I take my correspondence to the Post Office (yes, I still use snail mail.) There is a line of people at the post office. People are mailing Christmas cards and gifts, and this is where Amazon delivers its packages!

    Need to cut that tree – so you can see the city name – La Belle!

    People are chatting away. It’s obvious everyone knows each other. I love the familiarity of a small town and feel at home.

    Captain Pat to the Rescue

    I come back to the boat and discover Captain Pat is helping a sailboat dock.

    Turns out the woman’s name is Kathleen – Pat’s sister’s name! This Kathleen is adept on a sailboat. She is busy securing the boat, hooking up the water and electricity, tidying up.

    We never see her husband. Captain Pat probably thinks I could learn a few things from her.

    I am sad to leave LaBelle Wednesday, but I think Moore Haven will be another small town with some nice places to hang out in.

    Am I ever wrong!

    Here’s a bit about the city of LaBelle and some more photos from our visit.

    LaBelle is a city in and the county seat of Hendry County, Florida, United States. The population was 4,640 at the 2010 census. It was named for Laura June Hendry and Carrie Belle Hendry, daughters of pioneer cattleman Francis Asbury Hendry.

    LaBelle began as a settlement on the Caloosahatchee River around the time of  Hamilton Disston’s efforts to drain the Everglades with the hope of promoting growth. The settlement, which lay on the western edge of Captain Francis A. Hendry’s large Monroe County property, was initially populated with cattle drovers and trappers.

    Christmas decorations at the city docks.
    Sunshine docked at LaBelle
    Experimental Rotary Steam Engine – at the City Docks
    Woody and Lynne on their Marina Trader 40 Europa. They are our dock neighbors for three days.
    Ft. Thompson Avenue! On way to Coffee Shop.
    Sailboat anchored out.
    These little towns benefit greatly by the United Way funds.
    Our neighbor, Kathleen, on her sailboat.
    Just a funny map of Florida posted by a Looper

    Moore Haven, Florida

    Wednesday morning we bid our neighbors Woody and Lynn on Mayorca good bye.  They leave the marina first, headed to the gulf coast.

    We exit the marina and Ortona Lock awaits us.

    Entering the Ortona Lock

    Again, we are the only boat in the lock. Just as the previous lock master had informed us, in this lock the water rushes in fast and furious. We hook the line on our boat cleats and hold on for dear life. We are glad to see the lock doors open.

    Riverhouse Marina in Moore Haven

    We call the marina owner, Bob Holden, to find out our slip number. We learn he is very hands off but always reachable by text.

    He explains where to tie up and texts us a list of security codes, the WiFi password, etc. Unbelievably this turns out to be the best 5G internet service we’ve encountered on the Loop.

    That’s the only saving grace of this marina – and town.

    Sunshine at home in Moore Haven
    Captain Pat and the Admiral walk 1/2 mile to the laundromat.

    This is the most desolate town we have visited. It is depressing to see all the businesses shuttered. There is some construction, by the waterfront.

    We visit one Mexican restaurant, that has no tables. The Italian restaurant turns out to be ok. These are your only two options for dining out.

    The one haven is the Library, just steps from the boat. One day Pat gets a text from our Looper friend, Bill. He notes from Nebo we are in Moore Haven. He tells us he and Margie were there “and the only thing there is the library.” At that very moment Captain Pat was at the library, reviewing the Admiral’s blog post!

    Captain Pat visiting the Admiral at the Library.

    The library staff is so nice. They are busy decorating for Christmas and wrapping gifts for the children.

    I thought Captain Pat was going to go stir crazy before we left Moore Haven. He spent most of his day reading and resting. He is not used to that!

    We are both ready to leave Moore Haven, and get started on our journey across Lake Okeechobee. Than home!

    Here is a bit about Moore Haven, and other photos from our delightful visit there!

    Moore Haven, Florida is a city in, and the county seat of, Glades County, Florida, United States. The population was 1,680 at the 2010 census.

    Located on the banks of Lake Okeechobee and the Caloosahatchee River, Moore Haven offers some of the best freshwater fishing, camping and scenic hiking trails. Moore Haven is also the home of the Sour Orange and Cane Grinding festivals. 

    We pass this on the way to the Laundromat. Not sure if open or not. Leaning towards not.
    I do like this mural on the side of the building. Reminds me of the popular drawing of dogs playing cards.
    Old Glory flies proudly.
    Children can mail letters to Santa at the Library.
    Christmas Tree in Library lobby.
    Nativity scene outside of City Hall
    Captain Pat got a kick out of this man running for Sheriff.
    Docked next to us at the Marina, this boat belongs to Eric and Karen, who have completed the Loop.
    They were harbor hosts in Trent, Ontario.
    Good Bye, Moore Haven, Florida!
  • Two Days With Two Rescues

    December 16, 2023

    December 7 – 10, 2023

    Sunshine going under the Tampa Sunshine Skyway Bridge
    Tampa Sunshine Skyway Bridge

    Thank You, Frank!

    Thursday, December 7, we finally leave St. Petersburg. On one engine.

    Sunrise – our last morning in St. Petersburg

    Frank, our trusted mechanic in Boca Raton, tells us he will fix the tensioner on the port engine. He will drive from his home in Lighthouse Point to Ft. Myers, meet us there at a marina, and fix it.

    We can’t believe his generosity. Turns out his nephew is celebrating his birthday in Ft. Myers. Frank and his wife will stay at Frank’s brother’s home for the weekend. This makes us feel a little better. We are forever indebted to him!

    Our goal is to anchor near Venice tonight, then arrive Ft. Myers Friday to be ready for Frank on Saturday. Reservations in Ft. Myers are hard to find, as Hurricane Ian that hit last September has left many marinas in ruins.

    We reserve a slip for two nights at the Port Sanibel Island Marina in Ft. Myers. This marina is still under construction but partially open, offering electrical and water hookups at the dock. We tell them we are coming in on one engine, so docking the boat will be tricky and we’d like a starboard tie up if at all possible.

    Lyra Follows

    We head to the marina office for a pumpout.

    Our friends Melissa and Scott on Lyra are leaving Thursday morning too, heading to Sarasota.

    Lyra at the marina dock, preparing to depart.

    We get a pump out and soon after that Lyra follows up behind us as we head into Tampa Bay. The waves are a little choppy, mostly from boat waves.

    Lyra following Sunshine, en route to Sarasota

    It’s an ok ride for the most part. Lyra stays with us until Sarasota.

    Sunshine approaching the Tampa Sunshine Skyline Bridge
    Sunshine passes under the Tampa Sunshine Skyline Bridge
    Sunshine approaching Sarasota

    Melissa and Scott are heading to Marina Jack’s in Sarasota. Our Looper friends, Jim and Lynn Crowley on Acadia, are celebrating there as they have crossed their wake. We would love to celebrate with them but we need to get to Ft. Myers, on one engine, by Friday.

    Can’t believe so many birds fighting for space on this channel marker.
    We pass this ‘playground’ in the waterway. There’s a phone number displayed, if you’d like to order one!

    Trouble Hits

    The Admiral is down below napping when she hears steps on the roof. Are we anchoring already?

    I stumble up into the salon to a frantic Captain. Turns out he has just discovered the Blackburn Bridge is under repair and only opening sporadically. The next opening is two hours from now!

    The Captain is furious at the Bridge tender. Why wasn’t this communicated over the marine radios?

    To make it worse, when he asks for the height restriction on the bridge, the bridge tender won’t give that information, afraid of liabilities (if someone were to try to make it and doesn’t.) 

    The Captain discovers the height restriction is nine feet, and with our rooftop radio equipment dismantled we should make it.

    I get on the bow to watch. A fisherman in a boat just beyond the bridge yells “you can make it.”

    We proceed and sure enough, we barely clear the bridge.

    The Captain Takes a Plunge

    What happens next is not good. At all.

    As Pat is on top screwing the radar back on, he gets in a tizzy thinking I am steering the boat too far right where it is shallow.

    He hurries down and slips under the railing into the water.

    Luckily there is a fender tied parallel to the boat that he is hanging onto. The boat is moving, at a slow speed but moving. He yells for me to “put it in neutral!” I do not know how to do that.

    I do now.

    A boat with three passengers approaches our boat. One man jumps aboard. He looks at the dashboard and says “what the hell?” He can’t figure out neutral either.

    He says to me, “We are going to turn the key and kill the engine.”

    And we do.

    Somehow we get Captain Pat back into the boat.

    “Are you sure you are ok? You got pretty banged up,” asks our rescuer.

    Patrick is shaken and stunned but says he is fine. Please, he says, just let us get back to driving.

    The man (we didn’t even get his name) gets back on his boat.

    We are forever grateful for him.

    If you don’t believe in miracles – you should. WE DO.

    Forever Remorseful

    We get Captain Pat’s drenched clothes off and dry ones on. We are shaken but ok. It was a tragedy that fortunately ended well.

    I contemplated not writing this into the blog. But it is a big part of the trip. One that I am not proud of. But one that needs repeating, especially if my words can convince another first mate to know how to drive the boat before embarking on such a journey as the Great Loop.

    I can think things like, he was so upset and in a tizzy; he shouldn’t have slipped; why didn’t he yell “turn the key off.”

    But the bottom line is – I should know how to drive the boat. We should practice safety drills. Actually go through the motions – not just read about them or have a safety checklist.

    Patrick said afterwards the whole incident took only twenty minutes. But what a scary twenty minutes it was.

    Captain Pat with the pants he wore for his plunge.
    The red scared me. At first thought it was blood!
    Turns out it is the red paint from the bottom of the boat.

    As a follow-up – a few days ago we see the following AGLCA (America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association) Facebook post. It is a little late for us.

    Today we hear from fellow Looper Bill Sundstrom on Crustacean that the Blackburn Bridge is now permanently closed for repair. You cannot travel south of there on the intracoastal. You have to go outside on the ocean. We are fortunate to have that part of the trip behind us.

    We anchor out for the night just outside of Lemon Bay Preserve, a park in South Venice
    Sunset
    Grateful to be safe and secure inside Sunshine for the night.

    A New Day

    Friday, December 8, we awaken to a new day and a new start. On to Ft. Myers to meet Frank on Saturday and fix this engine.

    The trip to the marina is uneventful. Thank goodness, after yesterday.

    There is a place called “Stump Pass!”

    The channel to the marina is so shallow Captain Pat has to keep his eyes peeled to the charts and to the water.

    Finally we make it to Port Sanibel Marina.

    Docking Is A Challenge

    We approach and cannot find the slip number. Supposedly a dock hand is to meet us. We don’t see anyone.

    The wind is blowing and on one engine it is impossible to keep the boat in check.

    Sunshine docked at Port Sanibel Marina

    Captain Pat pulls up to a long dock and proclaims “This is where we are docking.”

    Two dockhands finally show up, We are frantic and say some things we later regret. They did not realize we were on one engine (even though we had told the marina staff person that a number of times.) They apologize, we apologize, and Sunshine is docked safely for the night.

    Wonderful Visit with Tracy and Tom

    Our friends Tracy and Tom live in Bonita Springs and have been following our trip. Tracy and Tom moved from Boca Raton to Bonita Springs about five years ago. They tell us they will drive to Ft. Myers and visit us once we are near them.

    What a special treat! They brought us lots of goodies – even Skinny Pop, the Captain’s favorite!

    Captain Pat enjoying his Skinny Pop, reading in bed!

    They treat us to a nice dinner at Bimini Bait Shack. I wasn’t expecting much, thinking this was a local fish diner. Were we ever surprised. The place was packed, with great live music and amazing food.

    Not the best photo – the band lights are behind us!

    Thank you, Tracy and Tom, we so appreciate your generosity and friendship. We look forward to returning the favor. And a trip together to the races in Lexington!

    Bimini Bait Shack Restaurant. There is a glass fish tank all around the bar.

    We are ready for a good night’s sleep. and praying Frank will be able to fix that port engine tomorrow.

    Frank To the Rescue

    Once again – Frank pulls through. In spades.

    Saturday he arrives around nine. Boy, are we happy to see him.

    After diagnosing the problem, he says the bolt the other mechanics said was too difficult to remove, is actually on plate. The plate is very easy to remove! Frank takes the plate to his mechanic’s van, removes the bolt easily, and is back on the boat in a flash to install the new tensioner.

    Two hours later the job is finished! Again we marvel at what an unbelievable mechanic he is. A true blessing.

    Thank you, Frank! You were a Godsend all during the many hours of preparation for our Great Loop. And here you are at the finish line, helping us again!

    Now to Cross Lake Okeechobee

    Saturday, December 10, we are feeling great that both boat engines are now operable. We begin to plan the final part of our journey – crossing Lake Okeechobee to Stuart, then West Palm Beach and finally Boca Raton.

    Sunday morning sunrise

    We think we can make it to the first lock – Franklin Lock – on Sunday, December 11, and then to Roland Martin’s in Clewiston on Monday. Tuesday we will cross Lake Okeechobee, and stay in Stuart at Sunset Bay Marina a couple of nights. We will anchor one night in North Palm Beach.

    We could be home by Friday, December 15!

    Or so we think.

    Pelican outside our boat – Port Sanibel Marina
    Sunset – Port Sanibel Marina
    Sunset
    Good bye to Fort Myers!
  • The Dalí Museum

    December 15, 2023

    St. Petersburg, Florida

    December 4 and 5

    Monday, December 4, the Captain and the Admiral pay a visit to the Dalí Museum.

    The Building
    The original Dalí Museum opened in St. Petersburg in 1982, after community leaders rallied to bring the Morses’ superlative collection of Dalí works to the area. (More about the Morses under “History” below.) The Dalí’s stunning new building opened on January 11, 2011.

    Designed by architect Yann Weymouth, it combines the rational with the fantastical: a simple rectangle with 18-inch thick hurricane-proof walls out of which erupts a large free-form geodesic glass bubble known as the “Enigma”.

    Weymouth worked as chief of design for I.M. Pei on the National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C., and on the Grand Louvre Project in Paris.

    From the Museum website:

    “The new structure enables the Museum to better protect and display the collection, to welcome the public, and to educate and promote enjoyment. In a larger sense it is a place of beauty dedicated, as is Dalí‘s art, to understanding and transformation.”

    The Enigma, which is made up of 1,062 triangular pieces of glass, stands 75 feet at its tallest point, a twenty-first century homage to the dome that adorns Dalí’s museum in Spain.

    Inside, the Museum houses another unique architectural feature – a helical staircase – recalling Dalí’s obsession with spirals and the double helical shape of the DNA molecule.


    Avant-Garden

    On the waterfront of Tampa Bay, The Dalí’s Avanti-Garden creates a unique environment of learning and tranquility. The Mathematical Garden allows students to experience the relationship between math and nature and invites exploration and well-being.

    Avanti-Garden
    Carmen-Castanets – Dali bronze statue in the Avant Garden
    Captain Pat looking down from top floor of Dali Museum
    View of Tampa Bay from top floor of Dali Museum

    Your Impressionist Portrait

    One of the coolest experiences for Captain Pat and I is the YOUR PORTRAIT, which transforms your portrait into a one-of-a-kind digital work of art.

    Impressionist self-portrait of Captain Pat

    Museum visitors further their understanding of unique artistic genres with this exclusive artificial intelligence (AI) experience. You sit in one of four photo booths, look into the camera, click a few buttons on the photo screen, and eventually your impressionist portrait appears.

    The Admiral snapped a photo of the screen during the photoshoot.

    You submit your email and the portrait is sent to you.

    The Admiral’s Impressionist Self-Portrait – First Visit

    I tried this again during my second visit to the museum!

    Dalí Dream Tapestry AI Experience

    Another Dalí Museum experience allows you to create art from a dream. You simply hover your smartphone over the QR code and an app allows you to type in a few words describing your dream. See explanation below.

    I type in “engine overheats on the boat.” (Ok, so this was more of a nightmare than a dream.) This image appears:

    I thought it was pretty good. Captain Pat, not so much.

    A second rendering follows:

    This does look like a nightmare! So many symbols – the drowned violin, a violent fish, a horse (?), a sea monster spitting something (tools?), ships in the distance.

    The second rendering includes input from other people in the database who may have submitted similar dreams (I think.) See the museum explanation below:

    I type in “dolphins swimming by the boat” - this appears:

    Dolphins swimming by the boat

    Then the second rendering:

    I like the first version better – without the dramatic “heated engine” symbols included with the dolphins.

    During my second visit to the museum, I type in “woman visits therapist” and these images appear:

    I could have done this all day long, as I am fascinated with dreams and fantasy and imagination.

    History of the Dalí Museum

    In 1942, Reynold and Eleanor Morse visited a traveling Dalí retrospective at the Cleveland Museum of Art organized by the Museum of Modern Art in New York and became fascinated with the artist’s work. On March 21, 1943, the Morses bought their first Dalí painting, Daddy Longlegs of the Evening, Hope! (1940) as a wedding gift to each other.

    Daddy Longlegs of the Evening-Hope! (1940)
    I am intrigued with this painting. We have many Daddy Longleg spiders at the Lake.

    The painting cost $1,250. The frame – $1,700! Turns out Gala, Dalí’s wife of 48 years, was the business genius in the relationship. She insisted Dali’s artwork be sold with the frame, and the frame was always an added cost.

    Daddy Longlegs of the Evening, Hope! (1940) was the first of many acquisitions, which would culminate 40 years later in the preeminent collection of Dalí’s work in America. On April 13, 1943, the Morses met Salvador Dalí and his wife Gala in New York initiating a long, rich friendship.

    The Morses first displayed their Dalí paintings in their home, and by the mid-1970s decided to donate their entire collection. A Wall Street Journal article titled, “U.S. Art World Dillydallies Over Dalí,” caught the attention of the St. Petersburg, Florida community, who rallied to bring the collection to the area.

    Museum Docent Tour

    We learn from a Museum guide there is a guided tour by a docent at 12:30 p.m. This turns out to be amazing. She has a wealthy of knowledge about Dalí, the symbolism in his artwork, and pertinent details of his life.

    Life of Dalí

    Salvador Dalí was born in 1904 in Figueres, Spain, where he died in 1989. A year before his birth his two-year-old brother died, also named Salvador. Dalí would later claim he always felt to be the “replacement” child. Dali painted “Portrait of My Dead Brother” in 1963.

    Portrait of My Dead Brother (1963)

    Many of Dali’s displayed paintings are accompanied by an explanation of the symbolisms within the art – as seen above. The knowledgeable docent is an skilled storyteller with even more details. She tells us it is rumoured that Dalí used the image of Robert F. Kennedy in this painting.

    Dalí’s Early Childhood

    Dalí ‘s father, Salvador Luca Rafael Aniceto Dalí Cusí (1872–1950) was a middle-class lawyer and notary, an anti-clerical atheist, and Catalan federalist, whose strict disciplinary approach was tempered by his wife, Felipa Domènech Ferrés (1874–1921) who encouraged her son’s artistic endeavors. Felipa was Catholic.

    The elder Dalí kept a book showing people with venereal disease out on the piano in their home, to dissuade his children from sexual activity.

    Dalí adored his mother, and his world is rocked when in 1921 she dies of uterine cancer. His father married her sister the next year. Dalí approved of the marriage, as he always loved his Aunt.

    Salvador Dali – Tieta, “Portrait of My Aunt,” Cadaques – 1923

    Dalí also had a sister, Ana María, who was three years younger. Dali painted her twelve times between 1923 and 1926.

    Salvador Dali – Portrait of My Sister – 1923

    The painting above hangs in the Museum and is Dalí’s second rendition of the portrait. His first drawing shows 15-year-old sister Ana Maria, in a realistic style. She was seated in an armchair with her hands crossed in her lap; a small table with books occupies the lower right-hand corner.

    Dalí returned to this celebrated portrait and added the second upside-down figure in a style radically different from the first, giving the whole composition the appearance of a playing card. The distorted second portrait seems inspired by early Cubist portraits of Picasso. 

    This over-painting reveals the tension growing between the artist and his sister. Close during their youth, Dalí and his sister grew distant once Gala, his future wife, entered his life. The two women disliked each other from the start. When Dali published his creative autobiography The Secret Life of Salvador Dali in 1941, filled with outrageous and shocking stories about his behavior as a boy, Ana Maria felt compelled to challenge his carefully orchestrated stories.

    In 1950 she published Salvador Dali as Seen by His Sister, presenting his youth in far more ordinary terms. Instead of the monstrous child Dali describes, she presents her brother as simply a spoiled child, and she blames Gala and the Surrealists for encouraging his aberrant fantasies.

    Dalí ‘s Study of Art

    In 1922 Dali enters the San Fernando Academy of Art in Madrid. Dalí draws attention “as an eccentric and dandy. He has long hair and sideburns, coat, stockings, and knee-breeches in the style of English aesthetes of the late 19th century.” In 1923 Dalí is expelled for one year from the San Fernando Academy for criticizing his lecturers and causing dissent amongst the student population.

    Even though Dalí studied for many years at the Special Painting, Sculpture and Engraving School of San Fernando in Madrid, he never graduated, much to his father’s disapproval. That’s because, during his very last exam at the school, he refuses to take the exam, saying the quality of his artwork speaks for itself. He insults a professor, saying that the teachers weren’t qualified enough to test him, and was immediately expelled.

    Dalí and His Father

    Dalí ‘s relationship with his father continues to decline, especially with Dalí’s marriage to Gala. In 1929 Dalí hears of his expulsion from the family home and shaves his head in an act of defiance against the threat of symbolic castration. Over the next four years he produces a series of paintings featuring his father in the form of mythical and historical figures, with distorted, bald heads or hydrocephalic, anamorphic skulls.

    Dalí was an avid study of Sigmund Freud, and used many Freudian symbolisms in his art.

    “Referring at once to the threat of emasculation by a ruthless father and the sublimation of unresolved Oedipal desires, these disturbing paintings collectively explore the theme of masochism: the desire for and resistance to symbolic incorporation and authoritarian control.” – the Museum.

    One of these paintings is “The Average Bureaucrat (1930),” a clear reference to Dalí ‘s father, a notary.

    “The Average Bureaucrat-1930“

    Our tour docent explains the symbols in this painting. The father is looking down. He is naked, vulnerable. His brain has been emptied and replaced with snail shells in the craterlike opening of his head. The shells, in Freudian symbolism, allude to female genitalia. The openings on the head transforms the bourgeois law and order into an elaborate, soft Swiss cheese.

    Not a favorable tribute to this father. Dali is later cut out of his will.

    Dalí and Surrealism

    Dalí moved closer to Surrealism in the late 1920s and joined the Surrealist group in 1929, soon becoming one of its leading exponents. His best-known work, The Persistence of Memory, was completed in August 1931, and is one of the most famous Surrealist paintings.

    Dalí ‘s Life with Wife Gala

    Dalí met and married his wife, Gala, in 1934. She was ten years his senior. Gala Dalí (born Elena Ivanovna Diakonova -1894 – June 1982), was the wife of poet Paul Eluard when she met Dalí and became his lifelong muse. She also inspired many other writers and artists.

    Gala was born in Kazan, Russian Empire, to a family of intellectuals. She worked as a school teacher while living in Moscow.

    In 1912, she was sent to a sanatorium near Davos in Switzerland for the treatment of tuberculosis. She met Paul Eluard while in Switzerland and fell in love with him. They were both seventeen. In 1916, during World War I, she traveled from Russia to Paris to reunite with him; they were married one year later. They had one child, daughter Cécile (11 May 1918 — 10 August 2016). Gala detested motherhood, mistreating and ignoring her child.

    With Éluard, Gala became involved in the Surrealist movement. She was an inspiration for many artists including Éluard, Louis Aragon, Max Ernst, and Andre Breton.

    She, Éluard, and Ernst spent three years in a menage a trois, from 1924 to 1927. In early August 1929, Éluard and Gala visited a young Surrealist painter in Spain, the emerging Salvador Dalí . An affair quickly developed between Gala and Dalí, and Gala left her husband and child. Nevertheless, even after the breakup of their marriage, Éluard and Gala remained close.

    Salvador and Gala lived in France throughout the Spanish Civil War before leaving for the United States in 1940 where Dalí achieved commercial success. He formed partnerships with Walt Disney, Alfred Hitchcock, and other celebrities in the film industry.

    In the early 1930s, Dalí started to sign his paintings with his and Gala’s name as “it is mostly with your blood, Gala, that I paint my pictures”. He stated that Gala acted as his agent, and aided in redirecting his focus. According to most accounts, Gala had a strong libido and throughout her life had numerous extramarital affairs (among them with her former husband Paul Éluard), which Dalí encouraged, since he was a practitioner of candaulism. She had a fondness for young artists, and in her old age she often gave expensive gifts to those who associated with her.

    They returned to Spain in 1948 where Dalí announced his return to the Catholic faith and developed his “nuclear mysticism” style, based on his interest in classicism, mysticism, and recent scientific developments.

    In 1968, Dalí bought Gala the Castle of Pubol, Girona, where she would spend time every summer from 1971 to 1980. At her request, Dali agreed not to visit there without getting advance permission from her in writing.

    Dali’s Art and Reputation

    Dalí’s artistic repertoire included painting, graphic arts, film, sculpture, design and photography, at times in collaboration with other artists. He also wrote fiction, poetry, autobiography, essays and criticism. Major themes in his work include dreams, the subconscious, sexuality, religion, science and his closest personal relationships.

    To the dismay of those who held his work in high regard, and to the irritation of his critics, his eccentric and ostentatious public behavior often drew more attention than his artwork. His public support for the Francoist regime, his commercial activities and the quality and authenticity of some of his late works have also been controversial. Like Picasso, he was known for signing a napkin hoping for a free meal in a restaurant, or paying with a signed check, knowing it wouldn’t be cashed but kept for the value of his signature.

    Impressionism, Realism, and Cubism

    We felt fortunate that the Dalí Museum was featuring an exhibit where artwork was on loan from the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. We viewed famous paintings from the art periods of impressionism, realism and cubism. Dalí was influenced by each of these art periods.

    The docent offered an art refresher:

    Impressionism is painting with a bright explosion of color, giving you the impressionism about how it feels to be there.

    Realism is when the painting looks so real and lifelike it reminds you of a photograph.

    Cubism painting is make up of simple shapes, and reminds you of a jumbled puzzle.

    Dalí quote on Museum wall
    Claude Monet – Antibes (Afternoon Effect) – 1888
    Salvador Dalí– Cadaques – 1923
    Cadaques, Spain, was the subject of many Dalí‘s paintings.
    Monet quotes displayed on Museum wall.

    Here are photos of prominent paintings from artists of the impressionistic era.

    Paul Cezanne – Self-Portrait with a Beret – 1898
    Salvador Dalí – Self-Portrait (Figueres) – 1921
    Salvador Dalí – Study of a Nude – 1923
    Edgar Degas – Portrait of a Man – No Date
    Salvador Dali – Still Life – 1922
    Edouard Manet – Basket of Fruit – 1864
    Pierre-Auguste Renoir – Rocky Crags at L’Estaque – 1882
    Pierre-Auguste Renoir – Algerian Girl – 1881
    Jean-Francois Raffaelli – Street Scene (Rue a Levallois) – 1890
    Claude Monet – Valley of the Petite Creuse – 1889
    Salvador Dalí – Bouquet (L’Important c’est la rose)- 1924
    Henri Matisse – Vase of Flowers – 1924
    Salvador Dalí – View of Cadaques with Shadow of Mount Pani – 1917
    Salvador Dalí- View of Portdogue (Port Alguer}, Cadaques – 1918
    Salvado Dalí– View of Cadaques from Playa Poal – 1920

    Dalí’s Surrealist Sculpture – The Bust of a Woman

    Dalí once said about Surrealist sculpture, “it is absolutely useless and created wholly for the purpose of materializing in a fetishistic way, with maximum tangible reality, ideas and fantasies of a delirious character.”

    Salvador Dalí – Retrospective Bust of a Woman – 1923

    The following explanation of the symbols within the sculpture hangs in the museum.

    The kitsch inkwell refers to Jean-Francois Millet’s painting, The Angelus (1857-59). Fixated on the work, Dalí painted this couple many times. Dalí viewed the Millet painting many times in his childhood, at school and at home. For him, the couple in the painting represent sexual repression.

    A zoetrope is a 19th century optical toy that creates the illusion of movement. This one shows a man losing and reattaching his head. As a choker, it suggests a similar fate for the female bust.

    This phallic loaf of bread is a key symbol for Dalí that changes over tiime. Here it is a Freudian fetish. By the late 1940’s, bread becomes a reference to Catholicism’s Eucharist (the Body of Christ.)

    Ants symbolize death, decay, and decadence. The young Dalí watched in shock and fascination as decomposing remains of small animals were eaten by ants.

    Both the corn and the bread are objects to be eaten. The swarming ants are feeding, and the woman joins the corn as something to be consumed.

    Dalí Famous Paintings

    Following are six of Dalí’s most famous paintings, each followed by the Museum explanation of the background and symbolism of the artwork.

    Salvador Dalí – Archeological Reminiscence of Millet’s “Angelus” – 1934

    Millet’s painting depicts a couple praying the Angelus over a basket of potatoes. Dalí’ claimed this was not a prayer service but rather a funeral, and not a basket of potatoes but a box (coffin) containing their son.

    In 1963 the Louvre Museum had the painting x-rayed and did actually find a box-like shape that was painted over by the basket of potatoes.

    Salvador Dalí’ – Daddy Longlegs of the Evening-Hope! – 1940

    The face in the painting – at the bottom, yellow hair, long eyelashes, with spider on it – Dalí uses many times in his painting. The dying cello means the music no longer plays – because of the war. Horses are usually strong, but this one is decaying.

    This painting eluded me. During my first visit to the Museum, the docent emphasized its correlation to the war. During my second trip to the Museum I was determined to find the painting again. But I couldn’t. Round and round I went in circles.

    I finally realized it was the Daddy Longlegs painting! I had passed the painting at least twice. But I focused on the Daddy Longlegs imagery and didn’t connect the war to it.

    Such it is with my life. Always going around in circles, not connecting the dots, and usually the answer is right in front of me.

    Salvador Dalí - Gala Contemplating the Mediterranean Sea which at Twenty Meters Becomes the Portrait of Abraham Lincoln – Homage to Rothko – 1976

    This painting wins the prize for the longest title on a painting. Kidding aside, I do adore this painting, because of my love of Lincoln and how his image is portrayed with the pixelation.

    Salvador Dalí - The Hallucinogenic Toreador – 1969 – 70
    It is easier to see the Toreador and the bull in this picture rather than my photo.

    The Venus de Milo is one of the most famous statues from ancient Greece. Dalí used it in many of his paintings. Also insects. As a child he was afraid of grasshoppers.

    Salvador Dalí – The Discovery of America by Christopher Columbus – 1958 – 59

    This work is an ambitious homage to Dalí’s Spain. It combines Spanish history, religion, art, and myth into a unified whole. It was commissioned for Huntington Hartford for the opening of his Museum Gallery of Modern Art in New York’s 2 Columbus Circle. At this time, some Catalan historians were claiming that Columbus was actually from Catalonia, not Italy, making the discovery all the more relevant for Dalí, who was also from this region of Spain.

    The eponymous painting deals with Christopher Columbus’s first landing in the New World. It depicts the event metaphorically rather than aiming for historical accuracy. Columbus is depicted not as a middle-aged mariner, but as an adolescent boy in a classical robe to symbolize America as a young continent with its best years ahead of it.

    Dalí, in a period of intense interest in Roman Catholic mysticism at the time, symbolically portrayed Columbus bringing Christianity and the true church to a new world as a great and holy accomplishment.

    Gala Dalí, whom he often depicted as the Virgin Mary, poses for the role of The Blessed Virgin (or according to some commentators Saint Helena) on the banner in the right hand of Columbus. She appears as a Saint, suggesting that she is Dalí’s muse and that she is responsible for his own, “Discovery of America”.

    Dalí painted himself in the background as a kneeling monk holding a crucifix. Dalí’s belief that Columbus was Catalan is represented by the incorporation of the old Catalan flag.

    The painting contains numerous references to the works of Diego Velazquez, (specifically The Surrender of Breda), a Spanish painter who had died 300 years earlier, and who influenced both Dalí’s painting and his moustache. Dalí borrows the spears from that painting and places them on the right hand side of his work. Within these spears, Dalí has painted the image of a crucified Christ, which was based on a drawing by the Spanish mystic, St. John.

    In the bottom center of the painting, on the beach a few steps in front of Columbus, is the bumpy and pockmarked brown sphere of a sea urchin with a curious halo-like ring around it.

    Salvador Dalí - The Ecumenical Council – 1960

    Dalí was inspired to paint The Ecumenical Council upon the 1958 election of Pope John XXIII, as the pope had extended communication to Geoffrey Fisher, the Archbishop of Canterbury, the first such invitation in more than four centuries. The painting expresses Dalí’s renewed hope in religious leadership following the devastation of World War II.

    Salvador Dalí was 54 years old when he began to paint The Ecumenical Council. He was established as a surrealist with a reputation for shocking audiences with fantastic imagery, something that  New York Times chief art critic John Canaday later characterized as “the naughtiness that obsessed him”.

    Dalí’s work began to take on darker, more violent overtones during World War II. Possibly spurred both by the death of his father in 1950 and his interest in the writings of French theologian Pierre Teilhard de Chardin, Dalí began to incorporate religious iconography in his work.

    He was by this time an international star and able to secure an audience with Pope Pius XII.  By the late 1950s, both religious and cosmic matters preoccupied his work while his canvases became especially large.

    The Ecumenical Council is an assemblage of religious scenes and other symbols with personal significance to Dalí that he often repeated in his works. Between Jesus and the Holy Spirit is a scene from the Papal coronation. Dalí’s wife Gala is shown kneeling under this area, holding a book and a cross.

    Dalí did not sign the canvas; instead he included a self-portrait in the lower left corner, looking out at the viewer as he stands in front of a blank canvas.

    A Selfie with Salvador Dalí

    My last activity at the Museum was to take a selfie with the Master himself. You stand in front of a talking image of Dali. A code appears that you text to emails a link provided. And then you receive your selfie!

    My selfie with Salvador Dali. This is a bit of a stretch. -:)

    His Legacy Lives On

    Dalí often proclaimed “he would never die.” His legacy lives on in his artwork. The Museum just received approval in August to receive $25.2 million to complete another renovation and expansion.

    https://stpeterising.com/home/2023/8/1/pinellas-county-commission-approves-252-million-in-funding-for-dali-museum-expansion-plans

    Studying Dalí s art and hearing of his life stories and pompous, self-serving remarks reminds me of a story told of another master, Picasso. You have probably heard it:

    Picasso is sketching at a park. A woman walks by, recognizes him, and begs for her portrait. Somehow, he agrees.

    A few minutes later, he hands her the sketch. She is elated, excited about how wonderfully it captures the very essence of her character, what beautiful work it is, and asks how much she owes him.

    “5000 francs, madam,” says Picasso. The woman is incredulous, outraged, and asks how that’s even possible given it only took him 5 minutes.

    Picasso looks up and, without missing a beat, says: “No, madam, it took me my whole life.”

  • St. Petersburg, Florida

    December 11, 2023

    With an unexpected stop at Clearwater . . .

    November 30 – December 7, 2023

    Night Lights – City of St. Petersburg, seen from Sunshine docked at the City Marina.
    Sunset – St. Petersburg, Florida

    November 30 we leave Tarpon Springs about 8:30 a.m. en route to the city marina in St. Petersburg.

    As you can see, we are making our way down the Gulf coast of Florida. Our ultimate goal is Ft. Myers where we will enter the locks on the Okeechobee Waterway and make our way across the state to Stuart. And then home to Boca Raton.

    We are cruising the Anclote River and first site we see is a boat aground! Remember “if you ain’t been around, you ain’t gone aground?”

    Looks like this guy will be ok, once the tide comes up.

    Our next site is a gleeful one. The dolphins are back!

    Show Off!
    Flipper!
    We are travelling through Dunedin, just south of Tarpon Springs.

    I am surprised I can capture photos. More videos too. One dolphin frightens Captain Pat, jumping right by the Captain’s door, causing Captain Pat to jump too!

    An Unexpected Stop in Clearwater

    We are making great time. Around 10:30 a.m. the port engine heat alarm goes on. The engine is overheated – the sensor reads a temperature of 240 degrees! Captain Pat immediately turns the engine off and goes below to check it out.

    Luckily we are not far from a dock at the Clearwater City Marina. We make our way to the dock on one engine and somehow tie up.

    Clearwater Marina
    Pelicans on the move.

    Captain Pat returns to the engine room for a closer look. Turns out the port engine tensioner belt is off, and the tensioner pulley mechanism is damaged.

    Sunshine docked at Clearwater Marina.

    Now we have to decide what to do next. Get a mechanic in Clearwater? Proceed to St. Petersburg on one engine? Find a mechanic in St. Pete?

    Sunshine’s Tensioner Parts

    In Tarpon Springs, Captain Pat met with a Victron battery installer and marine electrician- Louie. Louie plans to meet us in St. Petersburg to reprogram the Victron battery connection to the inverter.

    We call Louie and tell him about our port engine problem, asking if he can recommend a boat mechanic in St. Petersburg. He says he has mechanics who can handle it. Tell him the parts to order and they will take care of it.

    Sounds good. So off to St. Pete we go, gingerly on one engine.

    Leaving the Clearwater Marina

    Cruising on one engine makes for an even more tedious voyage for Captain Pat. Sunshine has to go slower; you can’t use the autopilot; still on the lookout for those pesky crab pots; and rectifying the electronic charts with the actual channel markers (or lack thereof.)

    The Bob Graham Sunshine Skyway Bridge

    Around 2:50 p.m. we see the outline of the Tampa Skyway bridge.

    I discover the official bridge name is the Bob Graham SUNSHINE Skyway Bridge! It is often referred to as Sunshine Skyway. This is a good omen.

    This bridge is considered the flagship bridge of Florida and serves as a gateway to Tampa Bay. The four-lane bridge carries Interstate 275 and U.S. Route 19, passing through three counties – Pinellas, Hillsborough, and Manatee.

    The bridge viewed from Sunshine

    The bridge consists of a pair of long beam bridges with a central cable-stayed bridge that spans Lower Tampa Bay to connect St. Petersburg to Terra Ceia. The current Sunshine Skyway opened in 1987 and is the second bridge of that name on the site.

    St. Petersburg Municipal Marina

    Approaching St. Petersburg
    The marina is beside the St. Petersburg Pier,

    Around 4 p.m. we roll into St. Petersburg Municipal Marina. The marina dockhand directs us to the transient dock. Thank goodness a boater, Jeff, helps us with the lines. The winds are up and it’s difficult to dock with one engine. No bow thrusters, remember?

    I am so impressed with Jeff. He knows just how to arrange the lines to adjust for the tides. You can tell he has been around boats a lot. He is on the huge Viking docked behind us. Even Captain Pat is impressed with his ease and expertise. I thank Jeff profusely – of course he doesn’t want the tip we usually offer to dockhands. He’s just a great guy who loves boats and wants to help others.

    Sunshine at her St. Petersburg home
    The Viking boat – all decked out for Christmas – docked behind Sunshine,
    Good Samaritan Jeff is one of the crew.

    Exploring St. Petersburg

    It is Friday, December 1, and the Admiral dons her Hokas to do some exploring in St. Petersburg. I’m interested in finding a Publix and post office – both are nearby. The city is fun to walk in. So diverse with parks, shops, museums, taverns, people.

    I stumble upon a city park, with people sleeping in the grass. I don’t think they are homeless, just tourists or students taking a break.

    Nap time in the park.

    Across the street is a Scientologist Center (I was told St. Petersburg is home to many Scientologists) that is next to a Gentlemen’s Club! Across the street is the Veterans’ Memorial, and at the corner is the Post Office. I find this an odd combination of buildings.

    Scientology Center
    Omni Blue Gentlemen’s Club
    Veterans’ Memorial
    There is a tribute for each of the U.S. Armed Forces.

    The First Open Air Post Office

    This is a unique post office. It is on the National Register of Historic Places, as it was the first open air post office. The stonework on the exterior and interior of the building is exquisite. The photos don’t do it justice.

    St. Petersburg Post Office

    Takes a Village to Fix a Boat

    The Admiral is out having fun, and the Captain is back at the boat facing frustration after frustration.

    Louie orders the parts for the boat. They will not arrive tomorrow, Saturday. They will arrive Monday. So we call the marina office to extend our stay to Monday.

    Little do we know we will be changing that departure day again to Thursday! More on that later.

    Our friends Bill and Margie Sundstrom on Crustacean are close to finishing their Loop – near St. Petersburg. They hear of our troubles and offer to help. Bill even has a spare tensioner. His boat has Cummins engines as well. Bill sends us photos of his parts.

    Photos from Bill
    Bill and Pat on Crustacean
    Margie on Crustacean – their Grand Banks

    I am still amazed at the wonderful people like Bill and Margie we have met on this journey. They just arrived home and are offering to come help us. The last thing they want to do after just getting home!

    Captain Pat thanks them for their offer of help. For now he will stick with Louie and see what happens.

    Friday Night Concert

    It is Friday afternoon and I am surprised at the loud music I am hearing. I’m thinking it is from someone’s boat. Turns out it is from the St. Petersburg Pier, located across the street from the marina. This venue is similar to the Navy Pier in Chicago. There are restaurants, tents set up with vendors, lots of activities, and loud music! It does calm down after a while.

    Friday evening we are serenaded by a free concert at the Pier. Every Friday evening a concert featuring various musical artists is held at the Pier pavillion. Tonight the entertainers are Chelsea Cutler and Lauv. No, I have never heard of them. I look them up and discover they are rising stars – popular musicians of a younger generation. Their music is enjoyable. Free entertainment for the evening.

    Across the street under the blue tent is the Pier pavilion for concerts.

    Meet Calypso! The Marina Kitty

    Calypso, the marina kitty (belongs to Charles on a nearby sailboat)
    Quaint patio lounge by the marina bath facility, as seen at night.

    One afternoon I am thrilled to see a kitty lounging on the patio! She reminds me of Tiger Kitty, except she is not feral and ferocious. She is quite friendly and loves to be petted.

    Fellow boaters inform me Calypso belongs to Charles, who lives on a sailboat near the lounge patio. Calypso has the run of the marina and will go on other people’s boats.

    Calypso follows me to our boat! Captain Pat can’t believe it. But she won’t jump on. She did jump on the sailboat docked behind us! I think she favors sailboats, as she lives on one.

    Calypso likes the rocking chair too.

    One morning Calypso is on the rocking chair on the patio. Captain Pat and I decide to have coffee and breakfast with her. Every time I see Calypso it makes me so happy. I look for her whenever I walk by the patio. (That is the way to exit the marina.)

    Calypso the Christmas kitty
    Napping under the Christmas tree

    And, yes, Kathleen, I did feed her turkey. Although she wouldn’t touch it. Probably has been taught not to take food from strangers.

    Saturday Night – Church and Pizza

    Saturday is a bummer for Captain Pat. He discovers a bolt has broken off where the tensioner is to be attached. The mechanics balk at having to remove the bolt. And supposedly Louie cannot acquire the right bolt. Our experience with Louie and his mechanics is not going well.

    I’m thinking back on the mechanics we’ve encountered on the Loop and this is definitely the worst experience.

    For example:

    We did have our share of problems at Penetanguishene – however, they did send a mechanic to Gore Bay to replace the battery sensor with one with the correct amps.

    At Drummond Island the marine electrician was an absolute master and installed a new alternator.

    In Chicago at DuSable Harbor we found a great mechanic to change the oils.

    At Green Turtle Bay in Kentucky, the mechanics came through fixing the windshield wipers and the bilge pump.

    At Kingfisher Marina in Demopolis Matt the Mechanic was stellar fixing the dripless shaft seal.

    Louie can’t even get the right interface to reprogram the batteries. We shall see. it is a frustrating waiting game.

    Captain Pat needs to get away from the boat. He’s been sequestered there for two days. We decide to go to Church and then to a pizza place I stumble upon in my travels.

    St. Mary, Our Lady of Grace Catholic Church

    It’s a nice walk to the Church. We pass the University of South Florida – St. Petersburg. The sign is missing some letters! Reminds us of Wheel of Fortune.

    The Church is just down the street, near Interstate 275 entering St. Petersburg.

    Peaceful Catholic Church

    Captain Pat tells the Admiral about his previous experience at this Church. In 2012 former Speaker of the House Paul Ryan, from Wisconsin, was the Vice Presidential running mate to then Republican Presidential candidate Mitt Romney. The Republican Convention was held the week of August 12, 2012, in Tampa, Florida.

    Paul Ryan and his family attended Mass at this Church one day during the Convention. Patrick happened to attend that Mass and remembers seeing the Senator and his family.

    The inside altar reminds us of the one in St. Peter’s Basilica

    Joey Brooklyn’s Pizza

    We walk to a pizza place I stumbled upon while walking to the Post Office. I had the lunch special and was surprised how good the pizza was. I look it up online where reviews claim it to be the best pizza in the county!

    I had told Captain Pat it was a ‘hole in the wall’ kind of place. He wasn’t prepared for just how small a hole it was.

    There is one small bar at the window with four seats, and three picnic tables outside! The place is packed. We sit at a table with another couple and their dog. The pizza reminds us of what we tasted at Robert’s in Chicago. The ambience however isn’t even close. We should have taken it to go and back to the boat!

    The street has several dining establishments – Italian, Irish, Mexican.

    Sunday – the Dali Museum and Dinner with the Roebucks

    Sunday is a special day. We plan to visit the Dali Museum and to have dinner with our friends Stephen and Mary-Francis, who live in Tampa.

    We have 10:30 a.m. tickets to the Dalí Alive 360° – an immersive experience celebrating the life and creative genius of Salvador Dalí. This multi-sensory art experience “envelops visitors in 360 degrees of light and sound within a monumental new Museum space – The Dalí Dome at The Dalí Museum.”

    The Geodesic Dome at the Dali Museum

    We leave the Dalí Alive 360° experience mesmerized. And dizzy. The images and writing are all around you. I keep wondering what I am missing in the back of me. I finally stop turning around and focus on what is in front of me, to stop missing out on the details of Dali’s life.

    There are images of insects running around your feet. I want to stomp them! Dali had a fascination and fear of insects.

    Following the Dalí Alive 360° visit, Captain Pat amazes me again. We are talking about the melting clocks Dali is famous for. Captain Pat notes “did you see the clocks at the beginning of the film are going backwards? Then at the end, they are going forward?”

    This is because Dali voiced that he thought his life would never end. He would last forever. But toward the end of Dali’s life his faith changed. He returned to his Catholic roots. His art shows this.

    I enjoyed the Dali Museum so much – I even went back for a second visit on Monday.

    I am dedicating our next blog to the Dali Museum. Stay tuned.

    The Captain and Captain in front of the Cadillac-Rainy Taxi.

    Rainy Taxi (1938), also known as Mannequin Rotting in a Taxi-Cab, is a three-dimensional artwork created by Salvador Dalí, consisting of an actual automobile with two mannequin occupants. A male chauffeur with a shark head is in the front seat, and a female sits in the back seat.

    In 1939, Dali created another rainy taxi, a yellow cab this time around. Finally, a last one was made for his museum in Figueres, using his own Cadillac. The “Rainy Rolls” is a homage to Dali’s Rainy Taxi. The “Rainy Rolls” is a Rolls Royce Sedanca 20/25 with an aluminum body by Thrupp and Maberly.

    The Cadillac-Rainy Taxi is a tribute that greets visitors to the Dali Museum

    Two mannequins sit in a taxi which has a water system integrated, so that it appears, bizarrely, to rain inside the car.

    Dinner with Stephen and Mary-Francis

    Before the mechanical repair mishap, we planned to visit Stephen and Mary-Francis Roebuck at their place in Anna Maria Island. That fell through, so Stephen and Mary-Francis came to St. Petersburg and treated us to dinner at SeaSalt.

    This truly was a special treat, to visit with old friends and enjoy such a lovely dinner. Patrick and Stephen worked many years together in the concrete industry.

    And we met their Golden Retriever, Lela! We so enjoyed this evening. Thank you, Stephen and Mary-Francis! You have to come to Boca so we can visit again and return your generosity.

    Frank to the Rescue

    Monday the mechanics decide they cannot locate the replacement bolt. They say they cannot even remove the bolt. Long story short – Captain Pat calls our wonder mechanic in Boca Raton – Frank, remember him? – who miraculously offers to meet us in Ft. Myers and he will repair the tensioner. So that is what we will do.

    Remember the tensioner is just one thing Louie is to fix. He is also to reprogram the Vichtron system for the lithium batteries. By Tuesday Louie still does not have the equipment to reprogram the battery system. This is getting old. We decide we have to leave Thursday, no matter what, to get to Ft. Myers to meet Frank.

    The St. Petersburg Pier

    Wednesday we are down because of we are still on one engine. We make the best of it and take a walk on the St. Petersburg Pier.

    We marvel at the concrete structures housing restaurants and shops. The views from the Pier are spectacular.

    View of the city from atop the restaurant on the St. Pete Pier
    Lone sailboat on Tampa Bay

    Benoist Centennial Plaza

    Did you know St. Petersburg is the birthplace or world-wide commercial aviation?

    Sculpture of Benoist Airboat

    The Benoist Centennial Plaza (it’s pronounced “Ben-wah,” by the way) is located just down from the St. Petersburg Pier. It features a full-sized sculpture of the Benoist Airboat that pilot Tony Jannus flew on the First Airline round-trip to Tampa on January 1, 1914.

    His first passenger that day? St. Pete Mayor Abe Pheil, who paid a then-astronomical sum of $400.

    Fun historical fact: The exhibit is located on the exact same spot as the hangar used for the World’s First Airline.

    The Vinoy Resort

    I walk to the Vinoy Resort – a hotel located just South of the Marina. This hotel was recently renovated with a Paris theme. I squirreled away in a comfy chair and worked on my blog.

    Christmas in Florida

    It may not be white with snow, but Florida does Christmas right when it comes to decorations. St. Petersburg doesn’t disappoint.

    I marvel at the night lights. You can’t help but be uplifted. Here are photos from our many evening walks.

    Captain Pat finds Sunshine Lane
    Park display
    Banyan tree in front of Museum of Fine Arts
    Museum of Fine Arts
    There are many museums in St. Petersburg –
    the History Museum at the Pier; the Fine Arts Museum; the James Museum of Western and Wildlife Art.
    All have stellar reviews.

    I Could Get Used to Marina Life

    I tell the Captain I could get used to marina life. Of course, being in a dynamic city like St. Petersburg helps. It’s nice to establish ‘roots,’ in familiar surroundings with frindogs and cats and and familiar faces, with lots to see and do.

    Our friends Scott and Melissa on Lyra arrive at the marina Tuesday. They spend some time on our boat and we enjoy their company. We have met so many wonderful Loopers on our trip.

    It’s time to move on and get Sunshine’s second engine repaired. So Thursday morning we will depart, travelling with Lyra who are headed to Sarasota. We joke we can follow them as we are down to one engine!

    Here are some more photos from our week in St. Petersburg.

    One morning I hear whimpering from a dog. I see this cutie on the sailboat docked behind us.
    His owners were just up in the bathhouse. His name is Kelsey and he is trained not to leave his boat.
    Kelsey on his boat, Endymion, from St. Louis, Missouri
    Kelsey’s parents, Jenn and Charles – they are so young! Living their dream.
    Captain Pat bidding adieu to Jenn and Charles and Kelsey
    Peter Demens, born Pyotr Alexeyevitch Dementyev, was a Russian nobleman who migrated in 1881 to the United States and became a railway owner and one of the founders of St. Petersburg, Florida, United States. He named this town St. Petersburg in honor of the capital city of Imperial Russia.
    A walk down the docks.
    Good by to St. Petersburg Marina!
    Popular restaurant located just down from the marina.
    Featured exhibit at the St. Petersburg Museum of History
  • Our Visit to Tarpon Springs, Florida

    December 7, 2023

    November 27 – November 30, 2023

    We close out the month of November in Tarpon Springs, Florida. And what a month it has been!

    Captain Pat provides the Admiral with the Nebo November summary of our trip. You can see we have travelled 1010.2 nautical miles! I’d say in spite of many obstacles we made very good time, thanks to Sunshine.

    The City of Tarpon Springs

    Located along the Anclote River where it intersects the Gulf of Mexico, Tarpon Springs is a rich mixture of Greek culture, customs and families. The city gets its name from the abundant supply of tarpon and other fish in its waters. Its waterfront is a working seaport and shopping district with the unmistakable feel of a Grecian fishing village.

    Sponge and fishing boats lined up at the city docks.

    Tarpon Springs’ charming downtown center is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The downtown is a showcase of proud historic buildings and homes from the gracious Victorian era. It’s an unlikely blend of histories, and one you’ll find only in Tarpon Springs, Pinellas County’s oldest city.

    Captain Pat finds a shop with our daughter’s name – Katherine!

    Visitors to the Historic District can stroll along brick streets while browsing in art galleries, antiques stores, and specialty shops housed in buildings dating from the late 1800s.

    Costa’s – famous Greek restaurant located in the Historic District.

    Greek Culture Permeates the City

    No other city in the United States has a higher percentage of residents of Greek heritage than Tarpon Springs. The street signs are in Greek and English.

    Greek music rings out all day and night throughout the town. I keep wanting to shout “Opa!”

    Best Greek Food Ever

    Greek eateries line waterfront Dodecanese Boulevard and beyond. There are so many, how do you choose? John, the marina dockmaster, steers us in the right direction for the best Greek gyro – The Limani. You order at the window and dine right on the docks overlooking the sponge boats. They serve seafood, shrimp and feta fries too.

    Best Gyro ever – we visit Limani twice

    Our electronic mechanic Louie (who’s Greek) recommends Hella’s for dinner – another great choice. Best lamb shank and Greek salad we’ve ever tasted. The Greek salad is traditional, served atop Greek potato salad.

    The bakery at Hella’s is stellar too. Patrick had to buy the “coconut pasta.” Pasta in Greek means “cake.”

    There were so many Greek bakeries, all featuring the same Greek goodies in their display windows.

    This is across the street from Costa’s, another Greek restaurant. I sampled some cookies here.

    The Sponge Industry

    The founding of the commercial sponge industry in 1886 changed Tarpon Springs forever. The sponge beds were discovered accidentally in 1873 by Key West fishermen whose nets were fouled by sponges off the mouth of the Anclote River. John Cheyney, a Tarpon Springs businessman, opened the Anclote River and Rock Island Sponge Company in 1886.

    By 1890 Tarpon Springs was a market for Gulf sponges. It was, however, Greek immigrants who expanded and refined sponging in Tarpon Springs. John Cocoris, who arrived in 1896 as a sponge buyer for a New York firm, was responsible for the Greek involvement.

    We see these sponge “dealers” on the dock.
    Sponges just off the boat, drying on the dock.

    Around 1905 Cocoris and his two brothers introduced diving for the sponges rather than hooking them. They raised enough money to bring a sponge boat crew and diving equipment from Greece. By the end of that year, 500 Greeks arrived to work in the sponge industry. This was an enormous population increase in a town of only a few hundred year-round residents. Tarpon Springs is now known as the “sponge capital of the world.”

    This tile mural is a tribute to John Cocoris who introduced diving as a technique to retrieve the sponges.
    Sponge exchange – established 1887
    Sponges just off the boats.

    Tarpon Springs Municipal Marina

    This marina wins the prize for the friendliest and most helpful staff. Dockmaster John greets the transient slip renters each morning. Mick, another Dockmaster, who we meet the last day, is amazing as well. They treat the marina as if it is their own. They take pride in Tarpon Springs and love promoting it.

    the marina has only six transient slips, so you get to know your neighbors. To our starboard is Jenn and Dave aboard Sailing OMG – Ocean Motion Gal – from Rogue River, Oregon. As Dave says, “we like to keep things simple. Less to break and fix.” He’s got that right! He is a retired Air Force veteran, Jenn a former school teacher and principal.

    OMG Sailboat departing Tarpon Springs

    To our port we had two different neighbors. First Pat and Teresa on Rock-N-Roll, a Gulfstar 36, from Murfreesboro, Tennessee. They are Loopers and we exchange information on anchorages, the weather, and places we’ve visited.

    For one day Riverdance, a Cutwater 28, is to our port. Captain Bill Parsons, from Knoxville, Tennessee, is travelling with a buddy and completing the Loop. I like this saying on his boat card – “God directs the wind … we adjust our sails.” Amen.

    And our Looper neighbor at the end of the dock – R & R, a Kady Krogen 44 – is the first to arrive Tarpon Springs as they started their crossing just before us from Carrabelle. Captain Rick is solo as his wife Ruth Ann is home this weekend with their dogs. Rick gave us that great weather information in Carrabelle prompting us to start our crossing one day earlier.

    A crane resting atop R & R!

    Here are more photos from our visit to Tarpon Springs:

    Christmas decorations and lights are everywhere.
    The Admiral at the sponge store – bought some loofas.
    Captain Pat is a diver, too.
    Love these cranes. They are so calm and unruffled.
    There are several establishments selling cannabais.
    This doggie snoozing on the porch of one cannabais store. I ask the owner if the dog had tried some of the product. He said he “would never tell!”
    Although later I witnessed the dog getting a bit aggressive with another pooch.
    So he must not have been too high!
    Loved seeing this older couple on the park bench. A familiar site in these waterfront towns.
    Statue of child fairies playing.
    Captain Pat in front of lobster trap Christmas tree!
    Shark statue – downtown center
    Lots of tourist t-shirts
    Sponge dive boat
    Diver statue – tribute to the sponge industry
    St. Nicholas fishing boat
    Crane in front of our boat – dredging the river. All lit up for nighttime.
    Sunshine docked at Tarpon Springs Marina
  • We Made It! Across the Gulf

    December 6, 2023

    November 25 and November 26

    It will take two stops – but we do make it across the Gulf.

    I awaken Saturday, November 25, thinking we are leaving early morning to cross the Gulf into Tarpon Springs.

    Captain Pat has changed his mind – and gratefully so. The weather indicates we should break the trip into two stops. Instead of leaving early morning we will leave around 8:00 a.m. to arrive Cedar Key around 3 p.m. We will anchor there for the night, and leave the next morning for Tarpon Springs.

    Ride to Cedar Key

    It’s a choppy ride, so much so the Admiral is hunkered down on the couch for most of the trip. Too much rocking to get up and move around the boat. We see few boats travelling today. Cell service is intermittent.

    The waves are two- to three-feet, with an occasional four footer! We are taking the waves broadside port, which makes for a wet and bumpy ride.

    Fishermen spotted just as we leave Carrabelle.
    Even the birds are getting out of here.

    Finally we see the shoreline of Cedar Key.

    Look like Carribean island homes.
    Cedar Key
    Sunshine approaching the pier at Cedar Key

    Captain Pat is exhausted. We have travelled about 100 nautical miles at 15 – 16 nautical miles per hour. Captain Pat diligently monitored the charts and kept on the lookout for crab traps. These can really do damage to your boat, especially if tangled with your props.

    Approaching Cedar Key we see two other boats anchored. I think that is a good sign. Captain Pat asks if I see a stern line on either boat. I don’t. He anchors the boat, then he notices there is a stern line on the other boat! It was on the side. I was looking for it off the back.

    If you remember our last debacle with not throwing a stern line – you can rest assured the Captain does throws one out today.

    Two boats anchored with us at Cedar Key.
    The pier at Cedar Key

    Cedar Key

    Long admired for its natural beauty and abundant supply of seafood, Cedar Key is a tranquil village, rich with the almost forgotten history of old Florida. It sits three miles out into the Gulf of Mexico. Highway 24 is the only road coming into town. It crosses over the salt marshes and channels on four small, low bridges. The population is approximately 800 full time residents.

    Cedar Key is known for Cedar Key National Wildlife Refuge, a group of small islands with trails and rich birdlife. Cedar Key Museum State Park offers a nature trail, a 1920s home and artifacts depicting Cedar Key’s history as a busy port.

    There are no high rises or huge apartment complexes. Cedar Key is a community of quaint cottages, single-family homes, working water front and aquaculture structures. It is said the view as you cross the Number Four Bridge is spell-binding.

    A nice place to visit. But not today, as we are consumed with only one thing occupying our thoughts – crossing the Gulf.

    Onward to Tarpon Springs

    After a fitful night of rolling seas and little sleep, we are ready to hit the waves and journey to Tarpon Springs.

    But first we have to get the stern anchor out!

    As luck would have it, that darned stern anchor is jammed and not budging. It is caught on the trim tab. Captain Pat is careful not to injure the trim tab. He maneuvers the line away from the trim tab with the boat hook. Finally it comes loose and he can pull the line all the way in.

    A big sigh of relief. A miracle, really. Now we can leave.

    The ride is similar to yesterday – maybe a bit gentler. Or maybe I am getting used to it. Probably the former.

    We travel a bit with the one boat anchored with us, but not for long as we are going faster than they are. As yesterday, we are travelling about 15 – 16 nmph.

    We have travelled 54 nautical miles. Are we ever grateful to see the Tarpon Springs Marina!

    We made it across the Gulf!

    As we approach we gulp with regret. The marina slips are similar to the ones encountered in Carrabelle. Again, we are told to back the boat in, with the bow facing out.

    The wind is howling, the current strong. The dockmaster John is trying to guide us in. I am on the port side pushing us away from the motorboat on that side. John has the lines on the starboard side. Captain Pat throws the bow lines over the pilings and secures to the boat. A sailor on the sailboat next to us calls Captain Pat a real “cowboy.”

    Captain Pat is not amused. It is so difficult to back into these small slips, with no bow thrusters. But he manages! Another miracle for today.

    We are finally docked securely.

    Sunshine docked at Tarpon Springs City Marina.

    We are running on adrenaline. We did it! We made it across the Gulf and can now enjoy a brief respite in Tarpon Springs. Allelulia!

  • To Apalachicola and to Carrabelle

    December 5, 2023

    November 23 – 24, 2023

    It is Thanksgiving Day – November 23. We plan to have pork chops, not turkey, with buttered small potatoes, cranberry sauce, and of course, pumpkin pie. With whipped cream. Not bad for being on a boat.

    En route to Apalachicola, Captain Pat has his favorite food to make the day complete – popcorn!

    Captain Pat munching on popcorn.

    We are having a heck of a time finding packaged popcorn, like Skinny Pop (the Captain’s preferred snack.) We do stumble upon Orville Redenbacher’s microwave pop that is only sea salt and oil – no buttery toppings. It’s pretty good.

    If You Ain’t Run Aground, You Ain’t Been Around

    (Credit to Doug Roberts, Great Looper and cousin)

    We are surprised at the barren landscape as we leave Panama City and travel the Apalachicola River. The bare shoreline trees are remnants of Hurricane Michael that hit five years ago. Other boaters later tell us it’s much improved.

    Traveling along the Apalachicola River

    It is a long tedious ride for Captain Pat, who is still keeping watch out for crap traps.

    Then suddenly – the boat stops.

    Oh sh – t.

    Captain Pat is following the channel, driving directly across to the town dock of Apalachicola. We suddenly hit ground.

    Fortunately a captain who had just docked radios us, asking if we need help. Yes, that would be great.

    That’s John in his dinghy just behind his boat – Jo – Ca – coming to rescue Sunshine.

    John jumps into his dinghy and soon rescues us. Sunshine is up and running in no time, thanks to our hero.

    To add to the story – after we dock Sunshine, with John and wife Heidi’s help, Patrick cleans the strainers on the boat (clearing out the seawood, etc., after the grounding.) I look out the galley window and comment:

    “Look, there’s a cute sailboat anchored out in front of us.”

    Patrick takes a look.

    “That sailboat isn’t anchored! It is grounded!”

    Sure enough the poor sailboat hit ground too. Hard. John and Patrick offer to help via the radio. He’s in too deep. Sea Tow comes to push them off.

    John comments that this happens so often. The channel is not marked correctly. It needs to be corrected!

    As far as running aground, they say there are two types of boaters – those who say they have run aground, and those who say they haven’t, but are lying.

    We enjoy quite a laugh when sharing our story with our cousin Doug who completed the Loop a few years ago. Doug sends us a song quite appropriate for the occasion – “If you ain’t been aground, you ain’t been around!” You can listen here:

    Thank you, Doug, for always lifting our spirits.

    Exploring Apalachicola

    John and his wife Heidi are most hospitable, welcoming us onto their boat, Jo-Ca (named after both of their mothers.) They are happy to share crossing stories. They have crossed many times and provide useful tips.

    They also give us the rundown on the spots to hit in Apalachicola. Unfortunately it is Thanksgiving so most places are closed. We have a fun time perusing the town. We make it to the Piggly Wiggly at 4:20 to discover they closed at 4:00! All ok. We head back to the boat for our pork chops and an early night to leave in the morning for Carrabelle and begin our crossing!

    Here are photos from our Apalachicola visit:

    Jo-Ca docked in front of the shrimp boats.
    Shrimp boats as we approach Apalachicola town docks.
    The town has charming bed and breakfast venues.
    Oh my! Lots of taverns.
    This is reportedly a fantastic restaurant – closed for Thanksgiving.
    Saw this cute kitty on way back to the boat.
    Market across the street from the town docks.
    The town docks. They are difficult to climb onto from our boat.
    My favorite is this coffee shop we visit the morning we leave.
    Hot apple fritters – so good!
    The shop has a rock n roll theme.
    With rock posters along the walls.
    Coffee grinder
    I didn’t buy any chocolates – but should have!

    Friday, November 24 – to Carrabelle

    This cute man waves us good bye as we depart the Apalachicola dock.

    We depart Apalachicola and see some rugged buildings that have seen better days.

    Sunshine Has Company – Dolphins!

    The bright spot travelling to Carrabelle is the entourage of dolphins that accompany our boat. We’ve never seen so many so close.

    Dolphins showing off for Sunshine

    I take several videos of these flying dolphins. I tell my brother David we are amazed at their stamina, keeping up with the boat for so long. He texts me this article:

    “You may have seen film of dolphins swimming alongside a fast boat and leaping as they go. Dolphins are streamlined and have evolved to slip through the water cleanly.

    An efficient travelling speed for a dolphin is about 4 – 6 miles per hour.

    Dolphin’s fast ‘cruising speed’ is between 8 – 10 miles per hour. They can keep going at that speed for some time.

    Dolphins have been observed getting up to speeds of about 16 miles per hour over shorter distances of about a mile.

    If dolphins have a wave behind them, or a bow wave of a boat to carry them along, they might go much faster.

    Dolphins might get up to about 17 miles per hour over short distances, for example to do a big jump out of the water.”

    Who knew these creatures have such speed!

    Arriving the Moorings at Carrabelle

    Our visit to the Moorings at Carrabelle Marina has a rocky start. We stop at the fuel dock for fuel top off and a pump out. We discover paying by debit card is the way to go, to avoid the 3 1/2 % credit card surcharge.

    We head over to our slip. We are told to back in. The dockhand (looks like Jack Sparrow) is trying to help the best he can. The current and wind are so strong. Sunshine does not have bow thrusters. We are the bow thrusters.

    The slip is too small and it is impossible to back into with these conditions. Frustrated, Captain Pat declares “Enough – we are going to the wall. We cannot dock here.” So off we go.

    Sunshine docked at the Moorings at Carrabelle Marina.

    This is a much better place to dock.

    Change of Crossing Plans

    We dock in front of R & R, a Kady Krogen who was in our flotilla travelling through the first locks with us.

    We talk with R & R’s captain, Rick. Rick has paid the extra money to have the personalized consultation with an experienced captain to get the best day to cross. He is crossing later today and will continue throughout the night, arriving Tarpon Springs late afternoon Saturday.

    One piece of crossing advice received from John on Jo-Ca is “be flexible and prepared to change plans at the last minute if need be.”

    This is Friday, and we are planning to cross Sunday, thinking that to be the better day. After speaking with Rick, Captain Pat decides the best day to cross is tomorrow, Saturday, not Sunday. So that is our new plan.

    Sunshine travels 15 – 16 nautical miles an hour. R & R travels at half that speed, so will take longer to cross. We are hoping to leave early in the morning to make it by late afternoon.

    We have a nice dinner at a recommended restaurant – The Fisherman’s Wife. It’s not fancy – paper plates and plastic cutlery – but the food is delectable.

    Best we’ve had in a while. Our “last supper!” Tomorrow morning will be our crossing to Tarpon Springs.

    So we think.

    Here are pictures from the Moorings at Carrabelle.

    The Moorings at Carrabelle
    Back in Florida – seeing some Grady Whites – our favorite.
    Love the older boats – they have such character.
    Good night to the Moorings at Carrabelle
  • To Destin and Panama City, Florida – and the Crossing!

    December 4, 2023

    November 19 – 22, 2023

    We left Green Turtle Bay, Kentucky around Halloween. Hard to believe in a few short weeks we traversed the river system and are now in the Florida panhandle. Although at the time it didn’t seem so short.

    Our next milestone is crossing the Gulf. This map shows two options.

    We are opting for the first – Carabelle to Tarpon Springs. But first, let’s stay in the present and enjoy two welcoming Florida towns – Destin and Panama City.

    Leaving Orange Beach we are in Escambia County and encounter cliffs of sand on the shores.

    Soon we see the city of Destin in the distance.

    We pass a looper boat – Flying Colors – and send them a photo.

    Approaching Choctawhatchee Bay we witness an incredible sunset. We anchor for the evening just outside of Destin. The sunset splendor is incredible.

    To Panama City – November 20

    The sun has sure been good to us. This morning we awaken to another peaceful sunrise.

    The intracoastal waterway greets us with more sandy cliffs, airboats, beaches, and channel markers. It’s nice to be in such well charted waters again.

    Sandy cliffs everywhere
    Surprised to see airboats – thought they were only in the Everglades.
    Sandy beach islands along the way.
    Nice to be in well charted water.
    Always a bird on the markers.

    Soon we see Panama City on the horizon.

    Point South Marina – Bay Point

    Our destination is Point South Marina – Bay Point in Panama City.

    This facility was recently renovated as it suffered considerable damage in 2018 from Hurricane Michael. The City Marina and St. Andrew’s Marina are still under reconstruction, expecting to open soon.

    Sunshine gets tucked away into her slip and we settle in.

    Sunshine docked at Point South Bay Marina

    Breakfast with Lenny

    Captain Pat with his buddy Lenny

    One reason for our stop in Panama City is to meet with Pat’s friend, Lenny. Lenny is a retired Air Force veteran who winters in Panama City and summers in New Hampshire. He kindly picked us up (in the pouring monsoons) in his red Mustang and took us first to breakfast and then to  – where else? – Walmart!

    You can tell it’s a good restaurant. Andy the owner goes around to each table to greet customers.

    Andy’s Flour Power Café & Bakery is perfect for breakfast and conversation. Lenny knows the hot spots in Panama City and loves showing us around.

    We so appreciate our friends helping us out with provisions, but more importantly sharing their precious commodity of time with us. Generosity is an amazing thing.

    Thank you, Lenny!

    The Admiral with Lenny

    Live de Life

    Live de Life docked across from Sunshine

    We meet some amazing boaters at this marina. One Looper couple we encounter is Sacha and Graham Uniacke aboard Live de Life. They are from Lefory, Ontario, and invite us over for drinks on their boat. We can’t believe two hours fly by – we have to get to bed, we are leaving early tomorrow morning!

    Sasha and me on the docks -early morning.

    Point South Marina – Bay Point

    I was impressed with this marina from my first phone call to reserve a slip. Gina was so friendly and nice on the phone, and in person. She is busy getting Point South ready for Christmas!

    I love her decorations, almost as much as her sunny personality.

    We highly recommend this marina. The staff is accommodating, the facilities clean, and the boaters friendly. If you are in Panama City this is the marina to consider!

    Welcome to Point South

    “You Make the Call” – for the Crossing!

    Top of mind for all Loopers now is when do we do the crossing? Captain Pat is watching the weather via a dozen resources. There is a Great Loop Facebook page with questions and answers from Loopers. One post caught my eye with the question “What apps do you recommend when doing the Loop?”

    Our friend Anne from last year’s No Rush boat had the best response:

    You can see there are a lot of resources to consult! Captain Pat does a great job of keeping on top of the weather, especially considering the best dates for us to cross the Gulf.

    There is another resource that the AGLCA puts out called “You Make the Call.” Three different size boats:

    • Viking 43′
    • Mainship 40′
    • Ranger Tug 26′

    consider this criteria:

    • Wind
    • Average Wave Height
    • Frequency of Waves in Seconds

    They then make their recommendation for crossing – should it be a daylight-only crossing, or a go-fast crossing from Carabelle to Tarpon Springs. Remember our map at the beginning of this post:

    This is an example of the recommendations they will make:

    And here is the long-term forecast given for November 27:

    Of course it gives the disclaimer that each person is responsible to make his/her final decision.

    You can also pay a fee (I think about $60) to get a personalized report for your boat.

    A lot of planning goes into deciding what day and route is the optimum choice.

    Our next stop is Apalachicola and then onto Carabelle to begin our crossing!

    Here are more photos from our stay in Panama City:

    Panama City, Florida
    Morning flag off Sunshine
    A boat in the marina with my grandmother’s name!
    Met the Loopers on this boat. They live aboard – no more land house.
    A boat from Montana! They live in Georgia. Such a nice couple – they offered to get us provisions.
    Sunshine at dusk
    Good bye, Point South Marina at Bay Point!
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Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure

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