To Twelvemile Island, Mobile Bay, and Gulf Shores


Thursday, November 16, and Friday, November 17, 2023

An Early Morning

At 3:45 a.m., Captain Pat lumbers out of bed. This isn’t unusual. But what happens next is.

He often gets up early morning, goes to the bathroom, then up to the couch in the salon to read a bit and eventually fall back to sleep.

I hear frantic rumbling of steps, and he’s back in the bedroom putting his clothes on.

“The boats are moving!”

“What boats?”

“OUR boats! Or – the boats in the other rafting. They are about to hit us!”

Looking out our boat door, sure enough, the three boats anchored in front of our three are now just outside of our boat! Dangerously.

Pat tries to send a text to Tom on Beachside. No cell service.

The Captain does the next best thing – blares his boat horn. That gets Tom up. And everyone else.

Captain Pat and Tom go to the stern of Tom’s boat to check the anchor hold. Todd from our third boat Sea No Evil also climbs aboard Beachside.

Lights flip on from the three boats behind us – Into the Mystic, Sundancer, and Riva. We are about to hit these boats, as we have moved. Captain Pat grabs our spotlight to get a better look at the anchor.

I’m not too worried. The three amigos should be able to figure something out.

I think of the time we were with Tom and Tracy on their boat in Lake Boca. Somehow, we drifted and ran over the bow line, which got tangled in the props, requiring a fellow boater to dive in to untangle it. Tom’s Dad was aboard and said “I wonder what Navy these guys are from. Hope it’s not the U.S.”

Kidding aside – this kind of thing happens. Beachside pulls up her anchor, repositions the three boats (still all tied up together) and soon we are comfortably distanced from the other three. Once safe, everyone returns to their boats and beds. By now it is past 4:30 a.m.

Anchoring Rule No. 1

Captain Pat awakens the Admiral at 6:15. I did not want to get up! But I did and we left the anchorage at 7:00 a.m.

Tom from Beachside helps us untie, and with a sigh admits we broke anchoring rule number one.

When anchoring out, all boats must follow the same pattern. If the first boat to an anchorage throws a stern line, the other boats do the same. That way the boats will swing in the same direction. Wind has to be considered as does tidal waters.

Yesterday evening, Into the Mystic threw out a stern anchor. Beachside did not. The captains talked about setting a stern anchor (as we did the night before) but decided against it. Lesson learned.

Thursday, November 16 – Today’s Journey

Today’s journey is without locks. Captain Pat has his chart set to reach Twelvemile Island today, and anchor there for the night. The other boats are considering different anchorages – all before Twelvemile Island.

We encounter the first of many tugs and notice ominous danger signs. From New Orleans, this tug is carrying benzine. Lots of benzine.

Next is a tug from Florida Marine – Marshall B. Barnes.

The next tug catches our eye as it is from Paducah, Kentucky and names ‘McKenzie’ – our granddaughter’s name!

Look close and you will see the name “McKenzie!”

A boat comes on the radio, asking for a pass on our starboard. Turns out it is a Looper boat named Soulmate. Captain Pat confirms this on Nebo.

As the boat passes, I snap a photo of it.

Looper boat named “Soulmate”

I do this often so I can text a picture of the boat to their  owners. Captain Pat asks them for their telephone number to do this.

They in turn reciprocate – and take a photo of Sunshine! How nice of them.

Sunshine on the Mobile River

Soon we reach a bridge in the Mobile River.

And around the corner is our anchorage – Twelvemile Island.

Captain Pat setting the anchor at Twelvemile Island

The early evening sunrays give us their blessing.

The sun sets and soon we drift off to sleep.

November 17 – Perfect Cruising Day – to Mobile Bay

We awaken to a beautiful sunrise.

We pass Melissa and Scott on their Albin 27, Lyra. They are going our way.

We immediately notice a difference in the waters as we enter Mobile Bay.

The Captain snaps a pic of the Admiral

The weather today allows t-shirts, shorts and flip-flops -a welcome change. We know we are near Florida, as we see dolphins and pelicans. The dolphins are fast rascals and I can’t get a photo.

Melissa and Scott on Lyra are following Sunshine, and Captain Pat is eager to guide them through the bay.

We are amazed at the number and size of the logs and debris in the river.

Captain Pat alerts Lyra on the radio each time he encounters them.

‘Deadheads’ are particularly dangerous for boats.
They are pieces of wood that stick straight up in the water. If hit they can really damage your boat.

As we pass under the bridge and into the bay we immediately notice the many cargo ships.

I’m not that familiar with Mobile, Alabama. I expected industry but am surprised at the tall buildings on the skyline and the number of ships and cargo containers. It reminds me of Miami.

The US Coast Guard makes an appearance in its boat. They seem to be fishing for something in the water.

As we pass the city docks, we see another Looper, Tsali on Compass Rose. Tsali waves to us as we pass.

Mobile Waterfront
The Convention Center, from the water, resembles a boat.

Mobile played a major role as a port and shipbuilding and repair center during World Wars I and II. It remains a center for shipping and shipbuilding.

This is the US Naval Hospital Ship – named “Comfort.”

See the end of this blog for facts on Mobile Bay and on the city of Mobile.

LuLu’s Homeport Marina and Restaurant

For many Loopers, their first stop on the Gulf Intercoastal Waterway is Lulu’s, an iconic Alabama restaurant famous because the owner is Jimmy Buffet’s sister.

We know many Loopers who plan to stay at Lulu’s marina. We bypass Lulu’s and head directly to the Wharf Marina in Orange Beach, Alabama (also known as Gulf Shores.)

Sunshine docked at The Wharf

The Wharf Marina

We get Sunshine settled into her slip,and do the usual cleanup. Captain Pat on the exterior, the Admiral the interior. For once Captain Pat decides to go up and check us in.

He’s a bit frustrated as the office isn’t easy to find. It gets worse when he discovers there is a 3 1/2 percentage charge for using a credit card, and not paying cash.

This is the first time a marina asks for boat insurance documentation, our registration, AGLCA proof of membership, etc. Granted they had emailed us requesting this information, followed by a four-page rules and registration guide! We had not completed any of this – my mistake.

The good news is the facility is modern, clean, and has an upscale resort feel to it. That we are not accustomed to!

I take a quick walk to the downtown area, just steps from our boat. The main street is decorated for the Holidays.

I make a reservation at the nail salon for a manicure/pedicure for tomorrow morning.

And I pass the Mexican place Doug and Theresa Roberts insist we go to – for their happy hour margaritas!

Meet Henry the Blue Heron, at the end of the dock.He greets us many times during our stay at the Wharf!

I think we will enjoy this much needed respite from so many anchorages. We are staying here three days. Yahoo!

It is so festive at the Wharf!
There is a dolphin tour boat at the end of our dock.
Watching the sunset
Evening lights at the Wharf

About Mobile Bay

Mobile Bay is a shallow inlet of the Gulf of Mexico. Its mouth is formed on the east by the Fort Morgan peninsula and on the west by Dauphin Island. The Mobile River and Tensaw River empty into the northern end of the bay making it an estuary. Several smaller rivers also empty into the bay: Dog River, Deer River, Fowl River, and Fish River. Mobile Bay is the fourth largest estuary in the United States with a discharge of 62,000 cubic feet of water per second.

Annually and often several times during the summer months, the fish and crustaceans will swarm the shallow coastline and shore of the bay. This event, appropriately named a jubilee, draws a large crowd because of the abundance of fresh, easily caught seafood.

About Mobile, Alabama

Mobile is a port city. The WWII-era USS Alabama battleship is anchored in Battleship Memorial Park. Mobile played a major role as a port and shipbuilding and repair center during World Wars I and II. It remains a center for shipping and shipbuilding.

Natural gas from the gulf is a major part of its economy. Oil is also important. Major manufacturers include paper products, chemicals, apparel, aircraft parts, and computer hardware and software.

Africatown is a community in Mobile that was established by survivors of the last forced voyage of enslaved Africans to the United States. It is the only American community ever created by West Africans who had personally survived the Middle Passage

Floats, costumes and photos at the Mobile Carnival Museum illuminate the city’s centuries-old Mardi Gras tradition. The city is considered the birthplace of Mardi Gras.

The 1850 Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception features intricate German stained glass. International fine and decorative art is displayed at the Mobile Museum of Art.

Mobile has a population of 187,041 at the 2020 census. It is the second most populous city in Alabama, after Huntsville.


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