August 15 – 19, 2023

We departed Hessel, enroute to Petoskey, Michigan. As Hessel is north of Mackinac Island and we are headed south, we pass through the Straits of Mackinac and under the Mackinac Bridge.

The bridge opened in 1957, replacing a series of ferries which had been operating since 1923. The 26,372-foot suspension bridge connects (Interstate I-75) the Lower Peninsula with the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. It is the longest suspension bridge between anchorages in the western hemisphere (24^th longest main span in the world.)

The Upper Peninsula is also referred to as just ‘the UP’ where the residents are affectionately known as “Yoopers” and longtime residents have a speech pattern that has been referred to as ‘Yooper English.’ The Mackinac Bridge, also referred to as the ‘Big Mac’ and ‘Mighty Mac,’ marks the boundary between Lake Huron and Lake Michigan.  

Petoskey, Michigan – August 15 – 19

Petoskey, ranked one of America’s Best Small Towns by Smithsonian.com, is a must-see for Loopers, along with Charlevoix and Leland, our next two stops. The Petoskey Municipal Marina is located behind a substantial break-wall adjacent to Bayfront Park. Both are popular sites for visitors and locals. We see lots of couples with strollers, children, and dogs.

The downtown of Petoskey is steps from the marina and well-marked. You walk through a tunnel which goes under the highway, climb the stairs, and you are greeted by a vibrant village of more than 60 stores, coffee shops, and restaurants.

Petoskey Break-Wall

I was surprised to see kids (and adults!) jumping off the break-wall into the water! There are ladders to climb up.  Here’s an excerpt from ‘Michigan Lighthouse Series’ describing the jump:

“Many consider jumping off the break-wall on hot summer days to cool off. It seems to be a rite of passage or a dare that many experience. Not for me! I’m a chicken. Perhaps back-in-the-day it might have sounded like something exciting to do. Now, though, I am much older and wiser. I have heard that it is not illegal to jump. I have also heard that it is not advisable. There are unpredictable currents, many fishing boats, and crisscrossing wave actions that can make this exciting idea perilous!

Proceed with caution! Sometimes what sounds like a great idea is anything but a good idea. Use wisdom in all decisions.”

History of Petoskey Break-Wall

The first break-wall in Petoskey was built in 1899. This barrier helped buffer against wave action near this shoreline. It also served to protect the landing pier and off-loading visitors debarking ships from the massive strong westerly winds of Lake Michigan in this unique location.

Initially, the break-wall was composed of mere metal posts with a lamp placed approximately fourteen feet from the outer end of the break-wall.

In 1903, an improvement was added. It was enclosed by steel. Another improvement happened in 1912 – a thirty-four-foot lighthouse was constructed. The strength of Northern Lake Michigan wave action soon showed itself causing the demise of this structure. This initial lighthouse was destroyed during a storm in 1924.

In 1930, a red steel structure was constructed with a temporary light placed at the top. This lasted until November 2005 when a section of the structure was again swept away by a storm.

The remainder of the structure was lost the following year due to another severe storm that further created a breach in the break-wall. This strong reminder of the perils of Lake Michigan storms resurfaces annually in the tremendous wave action that beats away at all in its path.

We witnessed it as well!

In 2009, Petoskey’s break-wall was permanently re-constructed to what we enjoy today! It’s construction has been shored up through strong engineering to withstand the severe beating it routinely takes while protecting the safe harbor of Petoskey.

Stormy Night

As mentioned above, we had to extend our stay in Petoskey due to the weather. When we initially requested two extra nights, the harbor master told us we would have to move to another slip. But when inclement weather hits, all boats usually stay put as no one is entering the marina in such bad weather. That is what happened to us. We didn’t have to move after all.

That night the boat was rocking and rolling, even secured in the marina. Captain Pat had seven lines on the boat. There was lots of rain and a north wind with 35 – 40 mph gusts.

Saturday we notice some of the clothes in the locker closet were damp. The rain had somehow seeped in. Off to the laundry I go to get it all back in order.

Petoskey Stone

The Petoskey stone, now the Michigan State stone, is a unique coral which grew locally millions of years ago. The stone has a polished look, gray and brown tones with striations.

We meet Loopers who are off to the beach by the breakwater to look for these stones.

It’s a rocky walk to the beach. The Petoskey stones are found close to shore, almost in the water. Flip-flops required. In Florida everyone searches for shells. In Michigan, you search for stones.

Or — you can purchase Petoskey stones in one of the many tourist shops. That is what the Admiral did!

Captain Pat’s Treasures

 Most marina laundry rooms offer a free library of used books, and a box of ‘flea market’ items boaters donate from their boat, free for the taking. In Petoskey, Captain Pat found two treasures – a nautical brass barometer and matching brass clock. They needed some polish and batteries. What a welcome addition to Sunshine’s décor!

St. Francis Solanus Indian Mission

The land where the mission now stands was sold by Amawee, an Odawa, to Jean Baptiste Trotochaud and his Ojibwa wife, Sophia Anaquet. Later, they donated nearly an acre of land to the Catholic Church. Jean, under the guidance of Father Sifferath, built this Mission in 1859.

In 1860, Bishop Frederic Baraga blessed and dedicated it for use by Natives and settlers. Mass was offered at least four times a year. The mission was restored in 1884, after the arrival of Father Pius Neumann, as Assistant Priest with the Franciscan Fathers.

It was abandoned by 1896 and restored again in 1931, 1959, and from 2005 to 2008. The church and burial grounds are listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

St. Francis Xavier Church

Sunday, we attended Mass at St. Francis Xavier Church. This reminded us of Father Xavier, from our home parish in Boca Raton – St. Joan of Arc.

Little Traverse Historical Society History Museum

Who knew Ernest Hemingway had ties to Petoskey, Michigan, as well as to Key West? The Little Traverse Historical Society History Museum (steps from the marina) houses Ernest Hemingway memorabilia from his days spending summer vacations in Petoskey.

The museum has an entire section dedicated to Hemingway. I should have gotten a picture of Captain Pat next to Ernest, as they resemble each other. -:)

There were also tributes to female writers and the founding members of Petoskey.

Here are more photos from our visit to Petoskey.