Tuesday, June 14, we left Belhaven with the intent of reaching Elizabeth City by the evening. That was a stretch goal – one we didn’t complete. There are two route options into Virginia:
1 – follow the ICW across Albemarle Sound to Elizabeth City and Dismal Swamp
2 – follow the ICW across Albemarle Sound to Coinjock and North Carolina Cut
We chose number one. However, crossing the Albemarle Sound wasn’t as easy as we initially thought.
The quote from Captain John here proved appropriate for us. “If you are a bit anxious over crossing the Gulf of Mexico, after you cross Albemarle Sound, the Gulf crossing will be a piece of cake.” We won’t be crossing the Gulf until next year. So by that time we will have forgotten the rough seas we encountered.
You know you’re in for a rough ride when the Captain says “we should probably put on our life jackets, even though we are inside the cabin.” The boat was really rocking. We ended up anchoring in a cove for the night and getting up early the next morning, hoping the waves would have subsided. That night was a restless one – I’d never felt the boat rock and roll all through the night like that.
The next morning was not bad at all. We arrived Elizabeth City and found a great docking space – free! – at the Mid-Atlantic Christian University. This was not in our resources or books – our friends Mitch and Anne told us about it. Always good to have word of mouth references.
Elizabeth City is known for its hospitality to the Loopers. Two gentlemen, Fred Fearing and Joseph Kramer, in 1983 decided to host a hospitality greeting for mariners who visited Elizabeth City. Joe clipped roses from his garden to give to the visitors and Fred provided refreshments. That first reception welcomed 17 boats and their crews. The “Legend of the Rosebuddies” was born, as they welcomed mariners up and down the Intracoastal Waterway and beyond.
When Joe died in 1987, his rose bushes were transplanted to Mariners Wharf River. They continue to bloom and welcome visitors who stop by the City docks.
Here are more stories and photos from our one night at Elizabeth City. Next blog – the Dismal Swamp.
The owners, Tom and Sarah, had the cutest chocolate lab – Madison – and a big orange cat named Deucy!
Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure 
10 responses to “To Virginia – via Elizabeth City and the Dismal Swamp”
Dismal Swamp! The name alone suggests tough going! Your blog is so, so interesting!
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Wow. That’s a compliment coming from an accomplished writer! Thank you. Miss you.
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Albemarle Sound sounded brutal! Glad everything is back to easy cruising. Rose Buddies, great history. Thanks again for sharing your adventure!
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Hello sweet neighbors! Hope our house is still there. Becky and girls and dogs tell me they are having fun !
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That must have been scary! What an adventure and journey, but a beautiful one and a blessing. Love the pictures. Many hugs, Tessie
Sent from my iPhone
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Sure do miss you Tessie. Loved your pics of California and Colorado. Love to you and Tom !
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Buenas Dias mi Amigos…….
Once again, you have some very classic photos, especially the Historic description signs. Most interesting again is the map of your travels “today and “tomorrow”.
You do put very thoughtful efforts into your “e-mail o grams”
Bill and Margarita
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Hello! Hope all is well. We are moving along!
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And again you deliver a sweet story. I love the idea of this mans roses continuing on. I wonder how long this will continue after his death. I guess as long as the roses live…..but they should continue even if the roses die. Just plant more and continue on with his memory. Lovely, Just Lovely little story. xox
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I liked the rose story too. Elizabeth City was a neat town.
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