One afternoon, we just had to get out of the marina. Tension was high, and everyone frustrated with the rate of repairs. We decided to take a break and visit Discovery Harbour.
Situated along Penetanguishene Bay, this site is a reconstruction of an original 19th century British naval and military base. Originally conceived during the War of 1812, the actual construction of a Naval Establishment would have to wait until peacetime. Finally operational in early 1817, the base served as an important supply link to more northerly British outposts, and safeguarded presents destined for Britain’s indigenous allies.
Improved relations with the United States during the 1820’s led to the closure of the naval base in 1834. However, in 1828 the garrison from Drummond Island was transferred to Penetanguishene, and Navy and Military co-existed at the facility for six years. The Military Establishment would remain in operation until 1856.
Discovery Harbour features 23 historic renditions, with guides at most providing reenactments. It’s a great walking tour, weather permitting. This turned out to be a stormy afternoon, so our visit was cut short.
H.M.S. Tecumseh
A highlight was boarding the H.M.S. Tecumseh. This warship was built at Chippewa on Lake Erie to be part of Britain’s defense fleet against the Americans in the War of 1812. Construction began in 1814; by the time of her launch in 1815, the war had ended. Oh well.
H.M.S. Tecumseth spent two years as a supply ship on Lake Erie before her transfer to the Naval Establishment at Penetanguishene. After many years of inactive service, she gave in to rot and sank in the Penetanguishene Harbour!
The replica H.M.S. Tecumseth was constructed using the original rigging inventory, Admiralty plans, a surviving logbook, and a period painting. H.M.S. Tecumseth’s appearance is that of a 19th century schooner, and where possible, her modern fittings have been carefully camouflaged. (We did find a few.)
These two guides provided commentary and showed us the living quarters below deck.This furniture served as tables during the day, beds at night.Hanging hammocks used for bedding.Captain Pat in the Captain’s Cabin
On the way to the H.M.S. Tecumseh is a jolly boat replica. The jolly boat was a general purpose ship’s boat used in the Royal Navy. Jolly boats could be sailed using lug or spritsails, or pulled by oars.
There is also a replica of a small transport vessel – the Bee. Of the three small transport vessels active on Lake Huron (Bee, Wasp and Mosquito) the Bee served the longest.
Both the H.M.S. Tecumseth and the Bee hold warrants from Canada’s Governor General.
Lower Dockyard
Just beyond the H.M.S. Tecumseth is the lower dockyard. The ongoing maintenance of buildings and ships was centered in the dockyard area and manned by a hired civilian workforce. The dockyard includes a sawpit, steam kiln and naval slip, and a blacksmith shop.
The DockyardThe SawpitAll the planking needed for vessels and buildings had to be laboriously sawn by hand by a team of sawyers.Office of the Clerk-in-Charge Clerk-in-Charge George Chiles managed the day-to-day administrative tasks for the base, including attendance, wages, and provisioning.The early Metis peoples (of European and First Nations ancestry) served as vital cultural intermediaries between the British and indigenous populations of Canada. They were hired as guides and interpreters for the British navy and military, While employed at the Penetanguishene Naval Establishment these individuals were quartered in the Sailors’ Barracks.Commanding Officer’s House The Commanding Officer supervised all aspects of the Establishments’ operation. Captain Samuel Roberts served from 1820 to 1822, accompanied by his wife, Rosamond and her sister Letitia.There is a wonderful playhouse at Discovery Harbour – King’s Wharf Theatre
Other sites include the Quarterman’s Office; Sailors’ Barracks; Assistant Surgeon’s House; Home of the Clerk-in-Charge; Stable; Cemetery; Naval Surveyor’s House; Home of the Fort Adjutant; Parade Square; and the Original Officers’ Quarters. I wish we could have toured the entire facility – next time!
Captain Pat aboard Sunshine as she leaves her winter storage.
Check Out Sunshine’s Makeover
Sunshine looks brand spanking new! Captain Pat sure takes good care of anything mobile. Wonder if he’ll let the Admiral get a makeover? (He better! She will deserve one after this trip.)
Clarification – you may remember from last year’s blog posts – Cindy is the Admiral, Patrick is the Captain.
While in winter storage at West Harbour Marine, Sunshine received a new hull paint job and all new non-skid extensive flooring topside, as well as a bottom job. We couldn’t be more pleased with the outcome.
Sunshine in storage – also called “on the hard” – after her paint job. Josh Gignac did a terrific job with both the painting and floor installion!
A new lithium battery bank was installed with charging power from a 500-watt solar system. This will enhance the cruising range of Sunshine and minimize the need to run the generator during morning and evening hours.
Solara panels installed – Captain Pat has since cleaned them!
We had other miscellaneous repairs completed while Sunshine was in storage and during spring commissioning.
Splashing Sunshine
Wednesday, June 28, Sunshine made her splash! She was launched under the capable hands of Graeme Aris, Jeff Heron and Dan Lepage.
Getting everything lined up for Sunshine to make the launch.
Captain Pat finally positioned himself behind the wheel and docked her in Slip 101 – with no scratches on that new paint job!
An aside – notice the smoke in the background? That was from the Canadian fires that reached all the way to Europe.Sunshine securely docked. It had been so long, I forgot how to correctly tie the lines. Dan Lepage helped me. You always tie “double eights.”
Here is an article on how to prepare taking a boat from ‘on the hard’ to being splashed.
Thursday, June 29, we were finally able to get on the boat and start organizing. Friday, we checked out of the hotel and officially moved into Sunshine. I wouldn’t say she was exactly ready for move-in – but that’s another story.
We soon discovered a seized-up water pump that required replacing. The pump should arrive July 4. In the meantime, as we are docked at the marina, we can use the shore power water (and electricity) until the boat’s water pump is installed and running.
Thursday evening, we are leaving for our last night stay in the hotel. Just as we are exiting the boat, we hear an alarm. I thought it was batteries needed in a fire alarm. Nope. It’s the bilge pump alarm. The boat is taking on water.
It’s six o’clock, all the mechanics have left. The marina owner, Graeme, comes over to help. We first think the mechanics over the winter missed connecting a line. We disconnected the water, so Sunshine would seize flooding.
We arrived next morning to the marina and Aaron Leroux, the master mechanical technician, came aboard to assess the situation. Turns out we need a new bathroom faucet. The line in the faucet ruptured and is leaking. So off we go to Home Depot to buy a new faucet. There is always something on a boat.
It’s amazing what elbow grease and cleaners can do to transform the interior of a boat. We should have taken before photos. Bill Raney can tell you how bad she looked. Here are photos of our current living quarters on Sunshine.
Here is our bedroom – called a “cabin” or “master state room” on a boat.
Here is our kitchen – called a “galley” on a boat.
Trust me -while cruising it doesn’t look this “staged.” More like a hurricane hit it.That’s our air fryer above the refrigerator.
And here is the bathroom – known on a boat as the “head.”
Love the new shower curtain! It is actually a nice shower for a boat.
The salon – “interior social space on a boat used like a living room in a home” – is still under construction. The engine is below the salon and work is being completed. So no sense putting it together until the mechanics are finished.
What a mess! Patience is a virtue.Captain Pat has his helm back together! So much to relearn with the electronics – Garmin, Navionics, Nebo. Special thanks to Mitch Lairmore for helping Pat out.
A Place for Everything, and Everything In Its Place
The first weekend on the boat is always a challenge, just getting used to where you stored everything. You’d think that wouldn’t be too difficult in such close quarters. One observation – we each have two drawers and two overheads. The Captain has two full length closets. What happened to the Admiral? Demoted? Who says women have more stuff.
The Admiral’s two overhead compartments – on starboard side.Captain Pat’s overhead compartments – on port sideCaptain Pat’s closet – starboard side. (OK – I do have some shoes in the bottom.)Captain Pat’s closet – port side.
My entire life is stored in these two overheads and two drawers for the next five months!
Happy Canada Day!
Saturday, July 1, Canadians celebrated our equivalent of July 4th – Canada Day. The holiday was officially observed Monday, July 3. Saturday the marina gave everyone free ice cream and there was a terrific fireworks show that evening.
Sitting on the back of our boat, watching the fireworks.
Sunday we took our first ride out on the boat. We drove to another local marina, Hindson Marina, to get fuel and ice. I learned you have to be careful when paying by credit card. For the first time at a purchase, I was given the option to pay Canadian or US dollars. I selected US.
Afterwards Captain Pat told me to always select Canadian. Let our credit card company convert it to Canadian. Otherwise the merchant (the marina) charges you an extra 4%.
The good news is I was only paying for the ice – not the fuel!
Celebrating Canada Day – our first trip to the fuel tank to fill up Sunshine!Beautiful day on the water!Next marina over – Hindson Marina
Here are some miscellaneous photos from our first few days at Harbour West Marina:
I was so excited to find this book on the boat! I thought I had lost it. It was written by my good friend, Mary Ann Wheeler, who passed away last year.Many of the boaters at this marina have a dog. This dog, Elyse, fell in the water last year and had to be rescued.Ran into this guy on one of my walks. Would love to have him at the Lake house.I’m obsessed with the Canadian geese. I realize they are not loved by the Canadians. They were here first! Yes, they are messy and I have heard they can be mean. Every morning and evening there are 11 – 16 of them around our boat. They are so cute when they bend over in the water for food. Their bottom tail feathers and feet are straight up in the air!The Admiral gave the Captain a new hat for his birthday last year. Does he wear it? Of course not. He prefers this old ratty one.This cute kid – Marcus – fishes frequently on the dock in front of our boat. Here he caught a pike! He later caught a bass. He throws the fish back in the lake so they can get larger. Their lucky day!Happy Canada Day from Harbour West Marina!
As mentioned in our previous post, we are so grateful to Ellie and Mike Vandenheuvel who showed us the Martyrs’ Shrine and provided commentary on the many memorials there. Ellie and Mike came to Penetanguishene from Holland 53 years ago for their honeymoon. They recently celebrated their 53rd Wedding Anniversary at the Shrine church.
Ellie and Mike Vandenheuvel at the Martyrs’ Shrine Church
Commonly known as the Martyrs’ Shrine, this ‘house of prayer, home of peace,’ offers many spiritual retreats and pilgrimages. The Shrine is a holy and historical space in Midland, Ontario, that welcomes over 100,000 visitors from around the world each year.
Within the spacious grounds is a Roman Catholic church consecrated to the memory of the Canadian Martyrs – six Jesuit Martyrs and two lay persons. These martyr saints left their comfortable lives in France to work among the indigenous people who occupied the territory of the Wendat Nation, known today as Georgian Bay. The Shrine celebrates the significant contributions they made to the introduction of Christianity and to the founding of the Province of Ontario and the nation of Canada.
Martyrs’ Shrine Church
The martyrs died over 350 years ago. They experienced fear, felt hunger, knew loneliness, had great hopes, and forged friendships. Some lie buried in these holy grounds. Their missionary spirit of self-offering love, education and spiritual discovery forms the legend of this site now.
The martyrs were canonized in 1930 by Pope Pius XI and made secondary patrons of Canada in 1940. As saints in heaven, the martyrs still love the land of Canada and hold a special love for Huronia. The paintings of the Martyrs, the relics, the canes and crutches speak of their personal intercession with the Lord. Visiting the Shrine brings one renewal and peace.
Painting of the Canadian Martyrs, in the Papal PavilionThe Papal Pavilion, built for the visit of Saint Pope John Paul II in 1984.
Diversity of Culture
The Martyrs’ Shrine continues to offer the diversity of service born from the original mission site. The story of the Martyrs’ Shrine is older than Canada itself and an odyssey into the great human virtues of love, compassion, generosity, and interculturalization that shaped Canada as it is known today.
This diversity of culture is seen in the many gardens, altars, pavilions, and statues that adorn the grounds. Countries represented are:
Site Map of the Martyrs’ ShrineThe Vietnamese Gardens was just recently completed.St. Josephine Bakhita, FDCC was a Sudanese-Italian Canossian religious sister who lived in Italy for 45 years, after having been a slave in Sudan. In 2000, she was declared a saint, the first black woman to receive the honor in the modern era.One of many altars on the grounds. This one is in front of the St. Francis of Assisi Statue.You can walk around the grounds and pray the Stations of the Cross.The Last Station of the CrossThis is a mosaic creation of Our Lady of Guadalupe.
History of the Martyrs’ Shrine
The Martyrs’ Shrine is one of nine national shrines in Canada, including among others, Saint Joseph’s Oratory in Montreal and the Basilica of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre.
In 1907, Dennis O’Connor, Archbishop of Toronto, consecrated a small chapel in Waubaushene, near the site where Sts. Jean de Brebeuf and Gabriel Lalemant were martyred. In 1925, Fr. John M. Filion, provincial superior of Jesuits in Canada, decided to pursue the construction of a larger church closer to the mission. He bought the Standin farm in Midland, across the road from Sainte-Marie.
Construction began that year, using some materials from the Waubaushene church and others donated by lumber companies in Northern Ontario. Pews, stained glass windows, Stations of the Cross and an altar were donated by churches in London and Toronto,
The church interior, shaped like an overturned canoe, was designed and built by Lidege Bourrie.
Construction on the shrine was completed by the winter of 1925 and was formally consecrated by Cardinal William Henry O’Connell of Boston, Massachusetts. The shrine houses the bones of St. Jean de Brebeuf, St. Gabriel Lalemant, and St. Charles Garnier.
The shrine was built without insulation. Due to the cold temperature conditions, the reliquaries are taken out of the church in the winter, and the shrine is closed to the public.
Saint Pope John Paul II visited the Martyrs’ Shrine in September 1984, and prayed over the skull of Brebeuf.
Crosses surround the statue of Saint Pope John Paul II.
The martyrs left behind a legacy of faith. Their Jesuit letters reveal the vibrant faith of the Hurons and the missionaries. Today, faith still brings people to this holy spot. They find it in the church, the gardens, the hillside.
Mike and Ellie Vandenheuvel, Katie Raney, Cindy McLaughlin, Bill Raney – visiting the Martyrs’ Shrine in Midland, Ontario
Road Trip from New Hampshire to Ontario
We departed New Hampshire June 13th, headed for Midland, Ontario. Midland is a few minutes south of West Harbor Marina in Penetanguishene, where our trawler, Sunshine, spent the winter. The car was packed to the gills. How in the world will all this fit into a 34-foot boat? We shall see.
Pat and Bill traded off driving. Kathleen was the master navigator who kept them on track. She’s quite accustomed to keeping boys on track – and successful at it. Thanks to Brooklyn Raney’s suggestion, we traveled a different route than last September’s road trip from Ontario to New Hampshire. This time we opted to drive through Montreal instead of Buffalo and Niagara. This drive proved to be much more scenic and enjoyable.
It’s always nerve-racking approaching customs clearance. It proved to be a non-event. The customs agent was so friendly and told us his parents live in Penetanguishene, our destination. Small world. He didn’t even question Bill’s cannabis stash. Just kidding!
Our Hotel Stay
We arrived Midland around 8 p.m. and settled into our hotel rooms. I was a bit skeptical at first. The hotel did turn out to be quite comfortable –convenient location, great customer service, and complementary morning breakfast. With a population of 17,000, Midland does not offer many hotel options.
Midland Inn & Suites – Hotel LobbyDining Room for Morning BreakfastIt was the craziest thing. Every day we had this little yellow bird at our window, pecking frantically.We learned later, the bird was probably seeing his reflection. As this is mating season, he was simply trying to protect his territory. I thought he wanted to come in and join us!I also befriended Charlie, the hotel’s resident groundhog as of three years.
We got to know the owner of the hotel. Originally from India, he bought this hotel a few years ago. He and his wife run the hotel, while his extended family cares for their two young children.
He was telling us of the housing dilemma in Midland. Retirees are selling their Toronto homes, and relocating to downsized homes in Midland and other waterfront towns. These home price escalations make it difficult for the average Midland resident to afford a home. This sounds familiar to what is happening in Florida – New Yorkers and others relocating and paying cash for homes, sight unseen, driving up the price of real estate.
Preparing Sunshine for Her Launch
Bill and Kathleen had planned to help us clean and provision Sunshine, launch her, and send us on our Great Loop journey. Turns out the mechanics were not as far along as we had hoped. Enter Plan B – inventory the boat, decide what to send back or keep, extend our hotel visit, and rent a car. Friday morning, we sent Bill and Kathleen on their way back to New Hampshire.
Words can’t express our gratitude for their generosity of time and treasure. These two go above and beyond – always! Thank you.
We did have many laughs as we dined at our familiar haunts – Mom’s Restaurant in Midland
Bill even treated us to lunch at McDonalds’s (he thought he was getting by cheap – ha!) and Dairy Queen ice cream. The Canadian Tire store proved to be quite the shopping experience for Bill and Kathleen – Costco on steroids yet sadly not as organized.
Captain Pat checking out this restored car, awaiting his chocolate dipped cone.We are installing solar panels onto Sunshine – so this contraption intrigued us.Canadian towns always have beautiful murals, depicting their history. This one is at the waterfront park in Midland.
The Martyrs’ Shrine in Midland
Thursday morning, we brought Kathleen and Bill to the Martyrs’ Shrine in Midland – see photos below. Our next blog post features details of the Shrine. Special thanks to our Canadian friends Ellie and Mike Vandenheuvel, who provided us a tour of the church and grounds.
I met Ellie serendipitously last year. I was wandering around aimlessly in Penetanguishene, just killing time, not having the best of days. On a whim I decided to go to noon Mass at St. Anne’s church. The church is huge, and I couldn’t find the right entrance. Ellie saw me and led me to the right door. We struck up a friendship. Ellie later gave me a book on the Martyrs’ Shrine and promised a tour once we returned to Canada in June.
Turns out Ellie and Mike are quite the historians and avid advocates of the Shrine. They graciously shared their love and knowledge of the Canadian martyrs. A special moment was standing by the many crutches and canes of those who have been healed at the Shrine. Mike shared a moving story of one such healing, a story I will never forget.
Crutches and canes from those who received healing at the Martyr’s Shrine.Kathleen and Bill, exiting the Shrine church.Stunning view from the Shrine church’s exit.Interior of the Shrine church. The roof was designed to look like an upside down canoe. That is Ellie on the right. Ellie takes care of the flowers at this church and at St. Anne’s in Penetanguishene.In front of the Shrine church – thanks to Bill for the photo.
“Sunshine” leaving her slip, making her way to be hauled out to the marina storage.
Monday, September 26, was a special day. It was our granddaughter Rylie’s tenth birthday, and it was the day we “hauled out” our boat “Sunshine” from her marina slip to be stored for the winter in Harbour West Marina.
Family Kathleen (Katie) and Bill Raney were there for the event. They had travelled from New Hampshire to Penetanguishene earlier in the week, and helped us get Sunshine ready for her winter storage.
Bill, Kathleen and Louie, the marina mascot, watching the haul out.Louie is not impressed. He’s seen this many times before.
For the most part the haul out went pretty smoothly. Marina owner Graeme had many workers in place to assist. It did take some time to adjust the boat on the haul out trailer. Once that was done, the fork lift driver pulled her right out.
Here she comes!Captain Pat leading the way.Bill watching Captain Pat piloting Sunshine in.Graeme, the marina owner, was on hand to oversee the entire operation.Captain Pat and Dean, Marina Mechanic, are also supervising.Jeff is the expert on towing out the boats.Making sure all is ok.
Finally Sunshine reaches on shore and is parked where you can easily board her. She will receive some maintenance work (new deck flooring, etc.) and then be moved to her interior location for the winter. Her first winter outside of Florida so she need to keep warm!
Sunshine is out of the water!Uncle Bill on the bow of Sunshine!Uncle Bill putting away the boat lines.Captain Pat and DeanKathleen between the boats, looking up at Sunshine!Captain Pat saying good by to Canada – until next June!
Captain Pat’s sister Kathleen (Katie) aboard Sunshine!Best deck candy ever – Uncle Bill!Sign on Champlain Road, en route to Harbour West Marina
We made it to our Canadian “home” port of Harbour West Marina in Penetanguishene, Ontario, on September 19. It was good to be back and it did feel like coming home! It’s nice to be in familiar surroundings with such welcoming and friendly people.
Captain Pat was busy lining up service and maintenance for Sunshine, to prepare her for her winter stay at Harbor West Marina. He is considering installing lithium batteries and solar panels, so he had some consulting to do to decide the appropriate next steps. This left time for the Admiral to get some quality walking in – with her hoodie on, as it was beginning to turn chilly.
Walking along Champlain Road – winter is approaching, the bike lane will soon be closed.The trees are just starting to unveil their autumn colors.
There are beautiful lakefront homes along Champlain Road, the road Harbour West Marina resides on. The driveways are steep – can’t imagine traveling on them in snow. Many homes have huge wooden statues marking there descending driveways.
Love these bears!
One day I ventured into the town of Penetanguishene, to grocery shop and do my last visit to the laundromat! We will certainly appreciate our washer and dryer when we return home.
I visited St. Anne’s Church again – “the Cathedral of the North.” An “angel” appeared to me – a woman named Ellie. Ellie showed me how to get into the church for noon Mass. I never would have found that entrance without her guidance!
After Mass Ellie took me to the bookstore where I bought a book on St. Anne’s. She also told me about the Jesuit mission in Midland. She even delivered a book on the mission to me at the marina! Such wonderful people we have met.
St. Anne’s Catholic Church – “the Cathedral of the North”
Here are more photos from my walk in Penetanguishene:
Firewood was for sale – getting ready for the winter.You pay via the honor system.The older homes were quaint. Love this horse-drawn buggy in front of this home.This home was amazing – an Ontario Heritage Landmark Building – very near St. Anne’s. A horse jockey statue?!I had a London Fog drink at the “Cafe Kitty Hawk” “- a farm to coffee cup establishment that sold amazing pastries, baked goods and sandwiches. Orville Wright had a 1929 Gidley 32 gull commuter boat named Kitty Hawk. Gidley turned out sturdy boats capable of withstanding the precarious conditions of Georgian Bay.
One evening we joined our friends Laurie and Ray for a all you can eat Fish and Chips dinner at Captain Ken’s. We’ve eaten plenty of fish and chips on this trip. This was by far the very best we have been served. Delicious!
Pat and Ray outside Captain Ken’sWe walked to Sunday Mass to the mission church located just down from the marina. We met a priest there, Father Simon, who serves as the pastor of St. Anne’s.
The absolute highlight of this final visit to Penetanguishene was the arrival of Pat’s sister Kathleen and her husband, Bill. They drove to Penetanguishene from their home in New Hampshire. They were a monumental help in our packing up of the boat and preparing it for its winter storage at the marina. And they gave us a ride to the Buffalo airport, to catch our flight home.
Bill taking the dinghy out for a spin.Katie found her new boat!
We took Bill and Katie out for a cruise on Georgian Bay. Captain Pat charted out a course, 32 miles, that took them around Beausoleil Island to Honey Harbour and Ojibway Bay. These were the first places we explored when arriving in Georgian Bay. Here are photos from our Georgian Bay cruise:
Entering Parks CanadaUncle Bill manning the bow.Patrick and Katie joined him.One of the 30,000 islandsThere are countless rocks with warning signs attached.Sailboats out in full force.Houses along the shore.Tourist boat.One of the many waterfront camps.These trees are emblematic of Georgian Bay.
Back at the marina, you can see here the indoor storage that our “Sunshine” will be spending the winter in. Currently this is housing a boat belonging to Graeme Aris, the marina owner. I love this boat!
From Hialeah, Florida!Such a nice refurbishing job.And the name!Beautiful pink granite at the marina. Can’t forget Louie, Graeme’s dog, who loved to visit our boat – for turkey!Those sad eyes!
Here are nighttime photos of our docks at Harbour West Marina. Until next year!
UPDATE: Captain Pat and Admiral Cindy have arrived home to Boca Raton! We arrived early Wednesday morning, September 27, on a flight from Buffalo, New York. We will post three more blogs of our last stops in Georgian Bay – our final days in Penetanguishene, with special guests – Pat’s sister Kathleen and her husband, Bill; the haul out of Sunshine to her winter home at Harbour West Marina; and a summary of our Part One – The Great Loop. Stay tuned for those!
Here’s the blog on Lion’s Head and Beckwith Island:
Found my namesake restaurant in Lion’s Head, Ontario!Captain Pat surveying the water from the rocks at the Lion’s Head Marina.Waves along the rocky shore at Lion’s Head Marina. The winds really kicked up and so did the seas.
Lion’s Head is a quiet, pretty little village (population 597) on the shore of the Bruce Peninsula, about 16 miles south of Cabot Head. Its location on the 45th parallel puts it halfway between the equator and the North Pole.
Map of Lion’s Head. IsoR circle is where the lighthouse is. Next circle are the docks where Sunshine found a slip.
The lion-shaped overhanging limestone bluff (part of the Niagara Escarpment) from which the town takes it name is about 1 1/2 miles to the northeast. It once looked like a prone lion; however, the rocky nose of the feline has fallen off since the resemblance was first noticed. The scenic limestone cliffs, with a backdrop of coniferous forest for which the peninsula is famous, stretch from the head into town.
Some of the cliffs as you approach Lion’s Head – photos courtesy of Captain Pat
We departed Wingfield Basin and travelled 17 miles south to stay at the Lion’s Head Marina (the town docks.) Approaching Lion’s Head are no real hazards for small-boat cruisers, although you should avoid Jackson Shoal, about two miles northeast of Lion’s Head Point.
Approaching Lion’s Head harbour, you see a small white lighthouse with an isophase (equal phase) red light on the end of a concrete pier. This marks the harbour entrance.
Lion’s Head Lighthouse
We enjoyed our stay at this marina. There was a walkway from the marina into town. The town streets were mostly deserted, and restaurants and shops closed as the summer season comes to a close in early September.
Maps of Lion’s Head. I wish all the towns had such detailed maps.
Along the walkway are planting beds to scare the Canadian geese and sea gulls away – see the explanation below.
The weather turned chilly (50 degrees) and windy, causing the geese to congregate in water and along the beaches. Guess the planting beds didn’t do much!
We counted over 80 Canadian geese!
The seagulls also took refuge on the rocky beach located by the lighthouse.
It’s difficult to see the seagulls, they blend in with the rocky beach.
We also saw the Canadian geese take flight. I remarked to Captain Pat “look, the geese are taking their winter journey, flying south!” to which he replied, “Cindy, they are flying to the North.” Good thing he is driving the boat and not me!
We walked to the grocery store and to a restaurant that also sells homemade dishes, where we bought delicious soups. We stumbled upon a church that offers services for both Catholic and United faith congregations.
St. Mark’s Mission Roman Catholic Church and United ChurchOnly one Mass is offered, on SaturdayInside the church
Just outside the church was a labyrinth – a walking meditation. I had never seen one. Captain Patrick explained what it was and said they have one at the Duncan Center in Delray Beach, where he takes an annual retreat.
Explanation of Labyrinth
Here is an explanation of the labyrinth, taken from the plaque pictured above:
“As a universal symbol the Labyrinth appears throughout history dating back some 4,500 years and appears cross-culturally over the face of our world throughout our known history.
A labyrinth differs from a maze. A maze is meant to challenge by virtue of its confusing paths. A labyrinth is a single path in to the center and the same back out that allows for one to focus inwardly while the feet simply follow the path – the turns are there to remind us of the turns in life.
Labyrinths date back to early Crete, Egypt, Peru and India and were used for ritual walking and spiritual contemplation. Often called “city of turns” labyrinths were equated with Holy cities such as Troy, Jericho, and Jerusalem.
The Hopi, a native people of North America, had a symbol for Mother Earth known today as the “Classical Seven-Path Labyrinth.” It was this symbol of the Mother Earth which identified the sacred in nature – that spiraling form found throughout nature.
Labyrinths were woven into objects to personify a person’s connection to their source and were often placed at sacred places in nature to remind one of this union. When one walks the labyrinth it is in recreating this very ancient expression of thanks and remembrance of the divine in all things.
The basic advice is to enter the labyrinth slowly, calming and clearing your mind. This may be done by repeating a prayer or chant or considering a question. Open your senses and focus on the process of taking slow and deliberate steps. Bring to mind a prayer or spiritual question to contemplate during the walk to the center. The labyrinth is commonly walked in silence to facilitate focusing on clearing the mind.”
St. Mark Labyrinth
All of these little towns have such beautiful summer flowers in bloom.
And Captain Pat found a real estate window to peruse.
We passed old homes and this cute Canadian mountie!
One of the biggest willow trees I’ve seen!
Back at the marina, we noticed some people on the rocky beaches down from the lighthouse.
Beautiful beach that is crowded during the busy season, but not in September.
Do you remember in a previous post we mentioned a shipwreck – the Gargantua – in the Wingfield Basin? In the marina office at Lion’s Head is a wall tribute featuring photos and the history of the Meneray family, who established a commercial fishery in Wingfield Basin and wintered in Lion’s head.
The Meneray Fishery at Wingfield Basin
Inside the marina is a diorama that shows a replication of the “ice harvest.” Each winter during the life of the Meneray Fishery at Wingfield Basin, crews traveled to the basin and harvested ice, putting it up in the adjacent ice-houses, packed in sawdust. This provided enough ice for crushing and packing the catches throughout the following season. Their own “ice making” machines!
The diorama depicting “ice harvesting.”Another view of the diorama. You can see it is encased within a glass structure.Explanation of Meneray Fishery 1900- 1956Meneray family photo – ice harvesting.Meneray family photo – shifting fish boxes.Pankhurst J. Meneray, founder of the fishery.Meneray family photo – feeding pigs!This classic Chris Craft belongs to the Meneray family and is docked up front in the marina.Note the “M”. What a magnificent boat!
Also featured at this marina are free guided star gazing tours, five days a week, between Canada Day and Labour Day Weekend. You can see planets, faint nebulae and sparkling star clusters.
Here are more photos from our stay at the Lion’s Head Marina, most of the marina itself.
Lion’s Head MarinaNight lightsGood night from Lion’s Head MarinaLone seagull on the walkwayBeautiful skiesVeteran memorial Sunshine tucked away in her slip.
Beckwith Island – September 17 – 19, 2022
Cruising to Beckwith Island
We departed Lion’s Head and headed to Beckwith Island. The winds had died down substantially.
Beckwith Island is the eastern of three islands in southeastern Georgia Bay. Its highest elevation is 226 meters (741 feet) above sea level. Like its populated neighbor Christian Island to the west, and Hope Island to the northwest, the uninhabited island is part of an Ojibwa tribal reserve.
On the mainland, Cedar Point lies directly south of the island and Thunder Beach is located to the southeast of Beckwith Island. The island is a pristine, and ecologically sensitive island of over 800 acres (324 ha), featuring sandy beaches and dunes, juniper bushes, as well as the rare and protected three-pronged awn grass, plus forests of oak, maple, birch and conifer trees. There is no development of any kind except for simple outhouses to serve boaters, campers and picnickers.
There are two boat anchorage points. One on the east and another on the west side of the islands where the narrows of the two islands meet. Sandy beaches are at both anchorage points.
Camping is permitted but you must obtain permission in advance from the local band council on Christian Island. The western side of Beckwith island is often a favorite place for boats to moor. And that is where we went. Beckwith Island and the attached “Little Beckwith” are part of the Beausoleil First Nation.
We will remember Beckwith Island as the last place we anchored in Georgian Bay, before heading to our home port of Harbour West Marina in Penetanguishene. We enjoyed the quiet and solitude of these last nights. Our only visitors were sea gulls! Here are our photos from Beckwith Island.
Beckwith Island in background – see one lonely seagull.This big guy starting hanging around the boat. I just had to feed him.And soon – another sea gull joined him for the feeding.He was not welcomed by the first seagull and soon was forced to fly away.Seagull flying into the sunset.Good night and good bye from Beckwith Island.
We departed Tobermory and headed to Flower Pot Island, part of Fathom Five National Marine Park. There are many tourist boats (some glass bottom) that take visitors to Flower Pot Island.
Tour boat taking tourists from Tobermory to Flower Pot IslandGlass bottom boat headed to Flower Pot IslandSee Flower Pot Island at the top of this map.
There are two distinctive limestone formations that give the island its name. There has been much speculation that the bases of the flowerpots would soon be eroded to such an extent that they would fall over. In the 1960s measures were taken to slow down the erosion process, and the two famous landmarks still stand.
People walking among the “flower pots” on Flower Pot Island
The weather was not the best, so we did not stop. It was amazing to see the “flower pot” rock structures up close from Sunshine, with so many visitors walking the island.
Hiking trails let visitors see the flowerpots, explore a cave and visit the lighthouse located on the northesterly point of the island. Camping is allowed with reservations required.
From the literature available on Flower Pot IslandCave on Flower Pot IslandEntrance to another caveVisitor center on Flower Pot Island
The water around the island is extremely shallow. In fact, when the water level is close to chart datum, the island is almost inaccessible. The tour companies from Tobermory use specially equipped inflatable tour boats. The island’s docks are also suitable for cottage boats, dinghies, canoes and kayaks.
Here are photos of our cruise around Flower Pot Island.
Light on Flower Pot IslandVisitors Center on Flower Pot IslandMany visitors on Flower Pot IslandWalking path on islandUnbelievable cliffsClose up of one “flower pot”Flower pots on flower pot islandCorner of island as we cruised by
Cabot Head and Wingfield Basin
Cabot Head Beach in Wingfield BasinA walk in the woods on Cabot Head Island.
We anchored for two nights in the Wingfield Basin near Cabot Head, on the Georgian Bay side of the Bruce Peninsula. There are two sides to the Bruce Peninsula – the Lake Huron side (west) and the Georgian Bay side (east). We are on the Georgian Bay side, heading South to Penetanguishene.
Wingfield Basin is a well-protected natural harbour near Cabot Head on the north-eastern tip of the Bruce Peninsula. Approaching the basin (especially in low-water years), it is essential to line up the beacons and then stay within the narrow buoyed channel.
Buoys for entering Wingfield Basin
There are many landing places for dinghies on the shingle beach or the sand beach in the bay. When the water is low, there’s lot of room to walk along the shingle beach, as well as paths through the wood to explore.
We took the dinghy over to this reserve to walk around.Sign on Cabot Head explaining the Biosphere ReserveThe beach was filled with rocksWe saw another Inukshuk.Captain Pat leads the way on our walk to the Lighthouse.Many birch trees have fallen.
We were cautioned about poison ivy and mississauga rattlesnakes, although we did not see any. Our walk brought us to the lighthouse, a heritage building which is being maintained by the Friends of Cabot Head. The Friends sponsor a volunteer lighthouse keeper’s program, where volunteers are selected to live in the lighthouse for a week at a time and perform traditional lighthouse keeper’s duties in exchange for an inexpensive holiday.
On our way to the Lighthouse.Cabot Head LighthouseSuch beauty in the trees.Captain Pat inspecting this buoy.
The wreck of the steam tug Gargantua lies in the anchorage. When the water is low, the rusty steering mechanism and the wide planks used in the ship’s construction are clearly visible. We could see this anchored aboard Sunshine.
We could see this ship wreckage from our anchorage with Sunshine.Sunshine in background, by the only other boat in Wingfield Basin. We dinghied to the rock shore in foreground.
Here are more photos from our anchorage in Wingfield Basin.
This map shows distance from Tobermory to Bruce Peninsula, and from there to Lion’s Head, our next stop.Buoys mark the way in these shallow waters.We spotted a little frog! not a lot of species here.More Goldenrod!Sign explaining Niagara EscarpmentCaptain Pat checking the portable radio, so he can communicate with the Admiral on his dinghy ride.Wingfield Basin and rocky beachOh Canada!Shingles beach – made up of pebbles, not sand.Sunshine anchored in Wingfield BasinBruce Peninsula, as we departed Wingfield Basin and Cabot Head.Good night from Wingfield Basin
Little Tub Harbour view from the town of TobermoryMany touring boats available to cruise and see the islands.
Tobermory’s Big Tub and Little Tub Harbours are two of the best natural refuges on Georgian Bay and have been a welcome sight for sailors, fishermen and lumbermen for more than 100 years. The shoal-strewn channel separating the Bruce Peninsula from Manitoulin Island is the entrance to Georgian Bay, and reaching Tobermory often signals the end of a long haul up Lake Huron for boaters going to the North Channel.
We stayed in Little Tub Harbour – the two town docks circled at the top of this map. You can see the Chi-Cheemaun Ferry circled at bottom right.
The Tobermory village – population 1,500 – is a tourist town attracting boaters, divers and hikers – as well as many people who drive here to take the Chi-Cheemaun (Ojibwa for “big canoe”), a vehicle and passenger ferry that runs to and from South Baymouth on Manitoulin Island. Since this is one of only two ways to take a vehicle to Manitoulin Island (the only other way is the single-lane swing bridge in Little Current mentioned earlier), it is common to see buses and transport trucks on this ferry as well as the usual tourist traffic.
Chi-Cheemaun – passenger and vehicle ferry out of Tobermory
The islands and shoals in the Tobermory area are mainly outcroppings from the Niagara Escarpment. An escarpment (also known as cuesta) is a steep slope or long cliff that forms as a result of faulting or erosion. It separates two relatively level areas having different elevations. The Niagara Escarpment is in Canada and the United States and runs predominantly east–west from New York through Ontario, Michigan, Wisconsin, and Illinois. The escarpment is most famous as the cliff over which the Niagara River plunges at Niagara Falls, for which it is named.
The Niagara Escarpment is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. It has the oldest forest ecosystem and trees in eastern North America.
Per the explanation above, there are 21 known shipwrecks in the National Marine Park. In 1964 an anchor was raised from the bottom of Tecumseh Cove near the wreckage of the schooner, Charles P. Minch. That anchor is displayed in the town and pictured below.The Admiral and the anchor retrieved from the Minch schooner wreckage.
Many of the Tobermory islands and shoals are part of the Fathom Five National Marine Park, Canada’s first national marine park. Hazardous for unwary cruisers, they are a magnet for scuba divers, who come to the area for its great visibility (30 to 40 feet) and the many shipwrecks of vessels that fell victim to those islands and shoals. The park has 21 known shipwrecks and is home to 140 species of fish!
The rocks and shoals in the Tobermory area are made even more treacherous by the strong winds (Inevitably contrary), currents (always varying) and waves (converging form three directions in some places). Wind, wave and currents have driven many hapless boats onto the shores.
We so loved our visit to this friendly harbour village of Little Tub Harbour. It retains the atmosphere of a quiet fishing village – and from its beginnings as a busy port for sawmills – today it is a bustling resort and center for various water activities. Boaters are fascinated by the endless boat traffic – the docks are in the heart of the town.
Tour boat headed out to islands
Glass-bottom boat tours for viewing wrecks, sunset cruises, and fishing and dive charters all operate out of Little Tub Harbour. Tour boats to Flowerpot Island and the caves on Bruce Peninsula also leave from here. If you want to do exploring on your own kayaks are for rent with guided tours.
One of the tour boats – Blue HeronGlass bottom Boat headed to Flower Pot Island
We visited the Park Center for the Bruce Peninsula National Park. We viewed a movie detailing the history and features of the park, and climbed the observation tower. Captain Pat was unaware of the Admiral’s fear of heights. The things you learn about your wife travelling four months straight! I wasn’t expecting the tower to be an open structure with just stairs to climb! It reminded me of camping at Lincoln State Park as a youth, where we would climb the fire tower there. I never liked it!
Yikes! Climbed to the top of this observation tower.
Here are items we viewed at the Park Center:
I appreciate the parks always acknowledging the indigenous peoples of Canada and their contributions to the culture here. Here are beautiful quotes from the park literature:
“We acknowledge the Traditional Territory of the Anishinabek Nation: The People of the Three Fires known as Ojibway, Odawa, and Pottawatomie Nations, and further give thanks to the Chippewas of Saugeen and the Chippewas of Nawash, now known as the Saugeen Ojibway Nation, as the traditional keepers of this land.”
“The Saugeen Ojibway Nation and Parks Canada Agency have a shared vision to care for these lands and places, and are learning to walk together, guided by the Grandfather Teachings of honesty, respect, truth, love, humility, bravery, and wisdom.”
“Together, we aim to protect and preserve the ecological, cultural and spiritual integrity of these places while welcoming visitors to enjoy, understand and connect with the natural, cultural and spiritual values of Bruce Peninsula National Park.”
Here are more photos from our stay at Tobermory.
I was told to try the “Beavertails.” Delicious! Reminded me of the cinnamon toast my mom would make for us for breakfast.Coconut Jacks – water front restaurant, with kayak rentals.The ducks were so tame. I almost tripped on them as they slept on the dock! They didn’t move.All curled up for their afternoon nap, right beside Sunshine.As with all towns, there was a veterans memorial statue. The flag was flown at half mast because of the death of Queen Elizabeth.Tribute honoring Queen Elizabeth. May she rest in peace.There were 40 jet skiers from a local club that gathered on Saturday to cruise by the islands.There may not be a grocery or laundry mat within walking distance at every port we’ve been in – but there is always the LCBO nearby! This is the government run liquor retail store in Canada, and for the most part the only venue to purchase alcohol products. Talk about pricey – a fifth of Tito’s vodka sells for $68!We dined one evening at this hotel restaurant – it was fabulous. Had my first “dakos” – it’s a Greek bruschetta with black olives and feta. Delicious!Yikes! Glad we didn’t have to pay parking – steep fines.Loved the stone structures along the town walkway.Such beautiful trees – this one a huge cedar.The seagulls were so loud! Here’s a lone one at the dock. Never tire of seeing the sailboats. This one docked across from us in Tobermory.
Baie Fine (pronounced bay fin) and The Pool are the North Channel’s prime attractions. It is 12 nautical miles east from Little Current, a straight-forward passage.
Sunshine anchored in the Pool at Baie Fine
After crossing the mouth of Frazier Bay, you arrive at the entrance of Baie Fine. As soon as you enter Baie Fine you see the white quartz mountains that stretch for miles down the narrow bay, often called a fiord. The Pool, nine nautical miles from the entrance, is reached by going through a vey narrow two-mile long channel at the end of Baie Fine.
The Pool
The beautiful wooded channel leading to the Pool has little rock islands scattered about. The Pool has a grassy bottom and it can be difficult to get an anchor to hold. Also, large bunches of floating seaweed can foul anchor lines. Many people who anchor here feel the inconvenience of a weedy anchorage is a small price to pay to experience the beauty of the Pool.
We anchored at the Pool for two nights, along with two other looper boats. They complained of the seaweed. We luckily did not have any such problems.
Our friends from Killarney, Ed and Geraldine, told us about the Evinrude home in the pool. Ralph Evinrude and his wife, movie star Francis Langford, brought their yacht Chanticleer from Jensen Beach, Florida to Baie Fine and the pool every summer for over 45 years. It is said the home got its electricity by hooking up the generator aboard the Chanticleer to provide power to the house.
We saw their home just before the pool. There is an Evinrude flag flying which makes it easy to spot.
The Evinrude home. Of course the boat has an Evinrude motor!The Evinrude Home
There are places to tie to shore and hiking trails that lead up the white quartz sides of The Pool. Our looper friends told us of the trail to go to Topaz Lake, where there are spectacular views of The Pool.
We did not know how to follow the trail signs – some red, some yellow, some blue. There was no cell service, so we couldn’t look up a map. We made a wrong turn and realized 30 minutes later we were not on the right path. Fortunately, we ran into a couple hiking who were very familiar with The Pool (they have a place nearby) and they pointed us in the right direction. We were only ten minutes away!
Captain Pat and the Admiral overlooking Topaz LakeQuartz stones we have collected from our hikes. Appropriately scribed by Captain Pat.
The Pool is within the boundaries of Killarney Provincial Park and frequented by hikers and campers. Our looper book tells of one morning a bear was seen swimming across the narrow channel leading to The Pool. Although bears do not usually cause problems it is recommended to keep pets and children in view!
Killarney Provincial Park sign at entrance of our hike. I was so happy there was a walking stick there. At the end of the hike I left it there for the next person to enjoy.
Here are photos from our overnight stay at the Pool and our cruise through Baie Fine.
Captain Pat setting anchor in the Pool.Entering Baie FineWe passed the Okeechobee Lodge – located between McGregor Point and Frazer Point, leading into the world’s largest fresh water fiord – Baie Fine. Built in 1941 and steeped in history, it was once a summer destination for Chicago mobsters as it was only accessible by boat.House in the Pool
Following are photos of the Pool, followed by photos of Baie Fine. The pictures just don’t capture the exquisite beauty of this Georgian Bay wonderland.
Departing the pool, into Baie Fine
Photos from Baie Fine:
The morning sunshine provided stunning reflections.From Killarney Provincial Park literature: “The towering white hills are comprised of a very hard sedimentary limestone called quartzite. Dating back 2.3 billion years, the rocks are some of the oldest in the world.”
Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure 