Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure

July 24 – 28

Happy Birthday, Captain Pat! –  July 26

We are in Drummond Island – back in the USA. We had planned to head to Sault Ste. Marie in Ontario for Captain Pat’s birthday. But that wasn’t meant to be.

Tuesday, July 25, we have the Drummond Island marina mechanics on board to fix the starboard battery. Three mechanics and nine hours later, the battery is replaced. Working in Sunshine’s engine room is never an easy task. We always pray for the mechanic to be of slight build, hopefully under 200 pounds.

Later I even hear about Sunshine’s repair debacle while in the laundry room! I decide to wash all our bedding – quilt, linens, blankets – might as well do something productive. I meet a couple from California, Kentucky, who keep an RV at the island resort for the summer. (Yes, there is a California, Kentucky, across the river from California, Ohio – suburb of Cincinnati. Who knew.)

We strike up a conversation. It turns out the husband is good friends with the marina mechanics. He tells me a story of the head mechanic, Joe, lamenting about a nine-hour battery replacement job. That was our boat!

Per Captain Pat, Joe was pretty beat up, even the next morning.

The bad news is, after getting the new battery, they discover the real problem is the alternator. The alternator failed, causing the battery to fail.

Even worse, this alternator was replaced last fall in Penetanguishene at West Harbour Marina. Captain Pat contacts Dean, the lead mechanic at West Harbour. Dean promises to send the money it will cost to refurbish the alternator. As this can’t be done in Drummond, we will buy a new alternator for now and take the bad one back to Boca to be repaired there.

The new alternator will not arrive until Friday. Captain Pat is not very happy. As he says “I just can’t catch a break.” I tell him in a year we will look back and laugh.

Yeah right.

In anticipation of Captain Pat’s birthday – July 26 – I ask the girls in the marina if there is any way I can get a cake for Pat. They give me the name of someone who bakes and delivers cakes. I’m thinking we are leaving Wednesday for Sault St. Marie just after the battery is replaced, so I ask Jenn, the cake lady, to deliver it by noon.

After the alternator news and discovering we will be in Drummond a few more days, Captain Pat is not in the mood for cake or celebration. I end up giving slices to the six workers at the marina. They were all smiles. At least someone is happy. The cake is yummy – dark chocolate with salted caramel frosting.

Captain Pat did enjoy some cake and ice cream later. It wasn’t the best of birthdays, though.

Americana Walk

One afternoon I decide to get some much-needed steps and walk on the one road out of the marina.

Just down from the marina, past the maintenance and storage buildings and the ‘resort’ area (cabins and RVs facing a beach) is the Drummond Island Historical Museum. More on that later.

I walk to the historical museum and turn right onto the main road.

There’s a coffee shop at the corner that unfortunately closed after Covid. Supposedly it will reopen next year – too late for me.

At the post office an older gentleman in suspenders carrying a walking cane steps into his car.

He reminds me of my Dad. I’ve taken a lot of photos of the post offices in Canada. This one of course is United States – and a forlorn one. The lobby sign indicates it’s service desk is only open 9 – 2, Monday through Friday.

I’m still that person who sends cards by mail. Monthly I send out birthday and anniversary cards to family members. If the price of postage keeps going up, Captain Pat will probably cut that out of my budget. Until I remind him how much he spends on the boat.

The homes and house trailers along the road depict the typical American waterfront town. Every house has a boat on a trailer and a pickup truck. And lots of old cars.

A trailer home catches my eye. It has a ‘Trump’ sign you just can’t miss!

I probably shouldn’t have walked up the driveway to take the photo. The owner may not appreciate trespassers!

Toward the end of my walk is a beautiful home – complete with a golf cart.

The road goes on a couple of miles to “Four Corners” – the one stoplight in town! The grocery, the local burger and ice cream joint, and a restaurant and bar are there.

Here are more photos from my walk on Drummond Island.

Our Wedding Anniversary – 33 Years

Our Wedding Anniversary – July 27 – proves to be a better day than Captain Pat’s birthday. The new alternator is delivered so the mechanics can install it and we can be on our way.

The marina rents cars to the transient boaters for $20 a day. We decide to go to the grocery and scout out restaurants for our anniversary dinner. Here’s our car -an older model Suburban.

Everywhere we stop people ask, “What year is that car?” We tell them we don’t know. It’s a rental.

“You rented that car?” they ask in disbelief.

Later we learn it is a 1988. Gay, the marina owner, tells us the car at one time belonged to Leon Slikkers. Slikkers worked at Chris Craft and loved building boats. At the age of 27 Slikkers left Chris Craft to start his own boat company, SlickCraft. The family decided to sell the company to AMF in 1969.

After a stop for ice cream and reviewing a few restaurants, we decide on Mexican – Esther’s.

It turned out to be the best choice.

Best Mexican cuisine ever, with a festive atmosphere and fantastic service. Happy anniversary to us!

July 22 – July 23

We have two stops enroute to Drummond Island – an anchorage at East Grant Island and a marina at Blind River.

East and West Grant Islands lie in the middle of the western end of the North Channel. The Grants are open, rocky islands some distance from more hospitable spots. Although they don’t provide much shelter, cruisers appreciate the privacy found here.

One advantage of this pair of islands is that there is clear water all around – except for a rock about ¼ mile west of Fishery Island – so you are never trapped. You can always move to safety, even if you must do so at night. If seeking shelter in this part of the North Channel, look to the villages on the mainland or on the large islands – Manitoulin, Cockburn, Drummond or St. Joseph.

Blind River, known as the “Heart of the North Channel,” is on the north shore and at the western end of the North Channel. French explorers named the area Blind River because the mouth of the river was difficult to see from offshore. With modern landmarks and navigation aids, this is no longer the case. Blind River (population 3,900) is a popular destination for boaters entering the North Channel from the west.

The marina accommodates 25 seasonal boats and 85 transients on floating finger docks 30 to 40 feet in length. We are surprised at the marina upgrades – new docks, a pavilion overlooking the water, benches and picnic tables, an art gallery, and a gift store.

We are disappointed that the Marina Café has closed and there are no restaurants near the marina. Restaurants are in the small downtown area, a 20-minute walk away.

Boat Talk

It’s the usual marina stay, with friendly transients always eager to swap boating stories. We meet some Loopers and again exchange information regarding the North Channel and beyond. Everyone expresses concern over the Chicago locks – will they be open in September? Some Loopers don’t want to be in the flotilla heading south, with too many boats jammed up waiting to enter the locks. Others plan to avoid the crowds all together. They will store their boats, return home, and resume the Loop after the crowds die down. Captain Pat plans to keep cruising, and weather the crowds. It is what it is. That is why he is in no hurry to make it to Chicago.

Captain Pat is the conversationalist on the docks. Here’s a typical conversation a boat owner would have with Patrick:

“Where are you from?”

“Boca Raton, Florida. We are doing the Loop.”

“Oh – we are too. When did you start the Loop?”

“Last year. We left our boat in Penetanguishene, Ontario. We came back to resume the Loop in July.”

“Oh. Nice boat. What kind is that? A Sabre?”

“No. It’s a Legacy. They are made in Rhode Island.”

“It looks like it will do well on the water.”

“Yes, she’s very stable.”

“How fast do you cruise?”

“Usually 7 knots. She goes faster, but this speed is optimum for efficiency.”

“Nice! I didn’t think it would go that fast. Single engine?”

“No twin diesels – Cummings.”

Captain Pat continues the conversation, asking about their boat and destination.

 I meet women at the laundry, as we load washers and dryers and fold clothes. Two women ask about the Loop, saying they think that would be a lot of time on a boat. It is! And not for everyone.

Walk Downtown

It’s Saturday evening and we decide to take a walk downtown. The Catholic church – St. James the Greater – is on the way and we want to see if it’s doable to attend morning Mass Sunday. It’s a leisurely 20-minute walk past well-kept older homes and a beach area.

There is one stoplight in town – at the intersection of Lakeview Drive and the Trans-Canada Highway This highway travels through all ten provinces of Canada, from the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic Ocean. The main route spans 4,645 miles (7,476 km), one of the longest routes of its type in the world. The highway is recognizable by its white-on-green maple leaf route markers, although there are small variations in the markers in some provinces.

Patrick needs a snack and a drink. We are in luck! I spot a familiar red and white circular logo – Tim Horton’s, the Dunkin’ Donuts equivalent in the states. After iced coffees and Boston Cream donuts we resume our walk to the downtown area. It’s all of two blocks. There are restaurants, a library, some shops – not much. We make our way back to the marina.

Sunday the electricity at the marina and in the entire town is out for a pre-planned shutdown.  It is scheduled to resume around noon. We walk to St. James the Greater church to attend 9:30 a.m. Mass.

It is a simple church with an inspirational service. Following Mass, we intend to get coffee and donuts at Tim Horton’s. But with no electricity, we discover it is closed! We save some calories instead and head back to the marina.

Metis Nation of Ontario (MNO)

On our walk downtown, we pass a building with the words “Metis – First Nations.” I later learn this is the headquarters for the Metis Nation of Ontario (MNO) – Blind River. Pat and I discuss at Mass that there aren’t many Catholic services in these waterside towns. The Catholic influence seems to have dwindled since the Jesuit priests first converted the Metis many years ago.

The Metis lived in Canada first. They were the “First Nation.” This was their land and they had their own culture. Canadian national parks and sites emphasize the cultures coming together.

Here’s information about the MNO from a Global News -Canada article:

“Metis are an indigenous (and Aboriginal) group in Canada with a specific social history. Until recently, they have not been regarded as ‘Indians’ under Canadian law and are not considered First Nations. Canada’s 1982 Constitution recognizes three distinct indigenous groups: First Nations, Inuit, and Metis with rights under Canadian law.

In 1983, the Metis Nation split from the Native Council of Canada (NCC) to form the Metis National Council, which represents Metis communities from Ontario, Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, and British Columbia.

The 1996 Report of the Royal Commission on Aboriginal Peoples states:

‘Many Canadians have mixed Aboriginal/non-Aboriginal ancestry, but that does not make them Metis or even Aboriginal. Some of them identify themselves as First Nations persons or Inuit, some as Metis and some as non-Aboriginal. What distinguishes Metis people from everyone else is that they associate themselves with a culture that is distinctly Metis.’

How many Metis are there?

Over the last decade, the number of people identifying as Metis has skyrocketed. In the 2016 Census, 587,545 people identified as Metis across Canada. That number represents a 51.2 percent growth since 2006. Over the same period, the First Nations population grew by 39.3 percent and Inuit by 29.1 percent.

As of 2021, the Metis population is 624,220.”

Here are more photos of our stay at Blind River:

Nature trail, chocolates, and deer!

We arrive Gore Bay July 18 and plan to stay three nights. What a great stop for transient boaters. It is at the end of a V-shaped, two-mile deep inlet set into the north shore of Manitoulin Island. The marina can accommodate 157 boats at the floating finger docks.

The amenities here far exceed our expectations, with a marine store, two beaches, museum, chocolate factory, craft brewery, and restaurant all on site! A grocery store, shops and five restaurants are within walking distance of our slip.

Young children and teens attend a sailing school on the beach. Canadian Yacht Charters is on site and offers power and sail charters and water sport rentals.

Renie Noble Nature Trail

The boardwalk through the marsh at the bottom end of the bay provides a wonderful opportunity to view local bird and animal life. This is yet another example of how Canada takes such special care of nature’s habitats.

Along the boardwalk are signs explaining local species of fish and birds.

The rain subsides and we enjoy a walk around the water, by the Inn, up the road, and into the woods. We eventually end up at the lookout point.

The photos do not do the scenery justice.

We meet a couple with a five-year-old boy who live in Holland. They are visiting the wife’s family as she is from Ontario. She moved to Holland to complete her PhD in Governance and Sustainability. She fell in love with a Dutch boy, got married, and now is a professor at a university. Captain Pat strikes up a conversation with the husband and I with the wife.

Her voice intrigues me. I’m always amazed by those who speak various languages. I have a hard enough time speaking English.

“Do you speak Dutch?” I ask.

“Yes. But I teach my classes in English.”

“How old is your little boy?”

“He is five. We needed to get him on a hike, to burn off some energy.”

“He is tall for five!”

“Not in Holland. Holland is known for having the tallest people in the world.”

I didn’t know this about the Dutch. When I think of Holland, I think of tulips, windmills, wooden shoes.

“Do you like living in Holland?”

“It has its pros and cons. Every country does. We don’t have access to this!” She waves her hands over the water below. “There isn’t this type of countryside.”

She proceeds to tell me there is a housing crisis in Holland and that Holland is the most densely populated country in the world. I look this up later and confirm “the total land area of the Netherlands is 33,720 square kilometers, giving it a population density of 508 people per square kilometer. This makes the Netherlands the most densely populated in the EU and one of the most densely populated in the world.”

Students can’t find places to live. She and her husband lived “off the grid” in a solar house for two years after their son was born. He got very used to not wearing clothes!

She is concerned with a recent law enacted that requires professors to teach a certain percentage of their classes in Dutch. This was passed under the influence of the Nationalists. She thinks this will lower educational standards and threaten recruitment of qualified talent for both students and professors.

She says the hardest thing about living in Holland is being away from her family. I can only imagine being an ocean and countries away from your family. It’s difficult having family in Arizona and Kentucky and New Hampshire.

As Dorothy says to Toto: “There really is no place like home.”

Visit from Steve

Captain Pat discovers he needs to replace the 12 volt DC (direct current) to DC chargers to the lithium batteries. Steve, a mechanic from Harbour West Marine, drives 4 ½ hours from Penetanguishene to our boat in Gore Bay. He replaces the chargers and confirms that one of our starting batteries is not working. That will require a replacement, probably at Drummond Island in the States. We appreciate Steve taking the time to make this repair.

Purvis Fisheries

Everyone has told us about Purvis Fish & Chips restaurant, which we can see from our boat. We know the fish is fresh. The Purvis fishing boat leaves from the marina every day.

It’s always a good night when we eat out and the Admiral doesn’t have to cook in the galley. The fish and chips here are the best we’ve ever had, and we even have leftovers to take home.

Chocolate Factory

Captain Pat surprises the Admiral and walks her to Finnia Chocolate Factory, located at the end of the marina by the craft brewery. Finnia Chocolates is a ‘bean-to-bar’ chocolate confectioner crafting specialty chocolates.

https://www.finniachocolate.shop/

We meet the owner, Lisa Beth, who is watering the herbs that go into making the chocolate.

Lisa Beth is quite charming, offering us samples of her exotic chocolate bars. It is like a wine tasting. She explains each one and the tastes she is trying to conjure up. She says the company is named after her two children – Finn and Fia. She resides on a farm with her accountant husband and there are always tales to tell. Just this morning he was trying to ring a chicken’s neck until she intervened! We are impressed with her gift of gab and her entrepreneurial skills. We leave with a nice sampling of her products.

Oh Deer!

The highlight of this marina visit isn’t the chocolate though. It is the tame deer roaming the property. When we arrive a boater tells us to be on the lookout early morning and at dusk.

Sure enough, we sight one on our hike through the nature trail. Even better – I spot one on my way to the showers, our last night. She stares right into my face. Unphased, she just resumes munching on the bushes.

The townspeople aren’t too happy with the deer as they eat the garden vegetables and flowers. But to me they are so innocent and fragile.

Here are more photos from our visit at Gore Bay:

July 15 – 17, 2023

We leave Kagawong to anchor at Croker Island. We find a nice spot – or so we think.

As evening approaches Captain Pat is not feeling good about the wind situation. We pull up anchor and move to a more protected cove. The spot we have selected is by three other motorboats tied up together and a sailboat.

Get By with A Little Help from Our Friends

The three motorboat owners are nervous – they think we are running over their anchors. Then the sailboat owner gets in on the party and says we are too close to his anchor.

One of the boat owners gets in his dinghy, comes over to our boat, and steers Captain Pat in the right direction to anchor, beside his boat but not over his line. He has Captain back in, toward the island. He even takes our stern anchor onto his dinghy and secures it to a tree on the island behind. What a nice guy!

Captain Pat tells him that was the nicest thing anyone has ever done for us. He replies “Of course! That is what boaters are supposed to do.”

You will remember we posted last year that when you enter an anchorage with boats already present, you are to follow their anchoring style. If they have both a stern and bow anchor out, you are to follow the same. If you put out a single bow anchor your boat will “swing” and eventually one of you will have to move.

The next morning our boating helper comes over to introduce himself. His name is Dave, his wife Laurie. He is from the town of Spanish and boats the North Channel frequently. He brings his iPad over and sits with Captain Pat, explaining the best spots to stop in the Channel.

Dave gives us island and dockage recommendations. As a result, we change our route and decide to head to Sault Ste. Marie. This was our original plan. Thank you, Dave!

Looper Friends

In the afternoon a couple comes to our boat on their dinghy – Shelley and Luke. They spot our Looper flag and tell us they finished the Loop a couple of years ago, with two children and two dogs. Their boat is “Oh Henry” and they too are from Spanish. Turns out their two children are currently in Ft. Pierce, Florida, visiting Looper friends.

Sandy Cranes and Blue Herons

The couple on a sailboat also dinghy over to our boat to chat. Boaters are so friendly. They live nearby and offer more tips on cruising the North Channel. They also tell to look out for sandhill cranes and blue herons who visit the island early morning and at dusk to feed on fish.

Sandhill cranes are tall – three to six feet – leggy birds with a wingspan that stretches to six feet. They have a distinctive red crown, a bluish or brownish gray body tinged with sandy yellow, and a long, harsh penetrating call.

A ten million year old sandhill crane fossil was found in Nebraska. This discovery makes them the oldest known surviving bird species! 

We saw some sandy cranes flying. They fly with their head straight out, making them resemble prehistoric pterodactyls.

The great blue heron is the largest heron native to North America. It has a head-to-tail length of three to six feet, a wingspan of six feet, a height of four to six feet, and a weight of four to eight pounds. They have slaty (gray with a slight azure blue) flight feathers and red-brown thighs.

Great blue herons are waders, typically seen along coastlines, in marshes, or near the shores of ponds or streams. They are expert fishers. and a paired red-brown

Sure enough – around 5 p.m. we spot a blue heron on the rock island in back of our boat. Through our binoculars we see he looks a little beat up. We are thinking poor guy has been around for a while.

He waits patiently on that rock for his dinner. Finally, he dips into the water and comes up with a fish. He swallows the fish whole, with one gulp, followed by a drink of water.

And we complain in a restaurant if our service isn’t quick enough.

Hiking the Island

We have a difficult time with cell service as the island is a natural barrier to reception. We decide to take the dinghy and hike up the mountain with our phones. We heard there is better reception there. It’s a little tricky as the rocks are wet and slick. We make it and discover our cell phones work. We check texts and catch up on emails.

Wildlife, blueberries and foliage are abundant. Walking the island, we discover some caves and see a little bunny.

The mountain top provides an excellent vantage to take photos.

Walking the Beach

One morning we take the dinghy over to the beach. We find some pink quartz rocks to take home as souvenirs. Croker Island is known for its red, pink and white quartz rock. We do some exploring and find an outhouse and paw prints from a bear. Wish we had seen the bear!

Sailboat Serenade

One evening we had a pleasant surprise. We hear music from a nearby sailboat. Turns out two guys are playing their guitars with a woman on vocals. They are quite good and sing such tunes as Bob Dillon’s  “Blowing in the Wind” and Crosby Stills Nash’s “Teach Your Children Well.”  Reminds me of a Peter, Paul and Mary hootenanny.

One Day at a Time

The evening before we depart the Captain is worrying about how he will get to the island to retrieve that anchor from the tree. Morning comes, and he asks the boater next to us if he or his teenage son can help us out. He says he will gladly do it for us.

He hops in his dinghy and expertly gets the anchor and brings it to our boat. Once again we get by with a little help from our friends! This is also a reminder to take it “one day at a time.” Things will always work out – just have a little faith.

Here are more photos from our time on Croker Island:

Captain Pat’s original Great Loop plans included a stop in Sault St. Marie, in Lake Superior. He’s always wanted to dip his toes in Lake Superior, supposedly the coldest waters in the Great Lakes. Lake Superior is aptly named because it is superior in size and depth. All the other four Great Lakes would fit in Lake Superior.

As we started Phase II of our Great Loop journey three weeks late – we ditched traveling to Sault St. Marie. However, after speaking with other North Channel boaters, Captain Pat has decided what the heck – it’s only time and when will we ever be back to the North Channel? So we revised our travel plans – see below. The only Great Lake we will not have visited is Lake Eerie.

There is a Sault (pronounced ‘soo’) St. Marie-Canada and a Sault St. Marie-Michigan, bordering each other. Obviously we are going to the Canada one. We could cross over to the states in Sault St. Marie-Michigan but instead are going to Drummond Island to enter the States.

We are excited! Please note below we have indicated when we are anchored (“A”) and when we are docked at a marina (“M”.) When anchored out we may not have cell service. Internet is iffy even at marinas – hence the difficulty to post blogs.

If all goes as planned – we will arrive Sault St. Marie on Captain Pat’s birthday – July 26! We are praying for safe voyages.

M = Marina    A = Anchorage     NM = Nautical Miles

1. Tobermory – M                                                               July 8 – 10
2. Heywood Island and Little Current – A                      July 11
3. Kagawong – M                                                               July 12 – 14
4. Croker Island – A                                                            July 15 – 17
5. Gore Bay – M                                                                  July 18 – 20
6. Sanford Island – A                                                          July 21 22 NM
7. Blind River – M                                                               July 22 – 23  8 NM
8. West Grant Island – A                                                  July 24 16 NM
9. Killaly Point July 25 29 NM
10. Sault St. Marie – M                                                        July 26 – 27  19 NM
11. Pancake Bay or Stoney Point – A                               July 28 – 29 27 NM
12. Sault St. Marie – M                                                       July 30 – 31 30 NM
13. Drummond Island, USA  – M                                       August 1 – 2 37 NM
14. Mackinac Island M or A?                                             August 3, 4, 5 41 NM

July 12 – 14

Kagawong gets its name from an Ojibwa word that means “where mists rise from the falling waters,” a reference to its Bridal Veil Falls. Kagawong is one of those North Channel towns described in our previous blog – once a bustling commercial center that now relies on tourism. In the early 1900’s, Kagawong was an important timber, fishing and transportation center.

A museum is housed in an old paper mill building. Years ago the mill supplied the paper used to print Sears & Roebuck catalogs.  

Our marina overlooks a sandy beach, where kids swim to the raft floating in the middle and push each other off.

The beach reminds me of Miller Lakes where my brothers and I took swimming lessons from the local Red Cross. There was a swim raft there, too. I remember trying to swim to that swim raft. It seemed too far away for the challenge.

One evening Captain Pat and I watch as the kids hoot and holler, pushing each other off into the water. There are so many on the float it almost sinks.

Kagawong had two features we fell in love with – the marina ice cream and the the Bridal Veil Falls.

Kawartha Ice Cream

The marina serves ice cream from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. This is not your run of the mill marina ice cream – packaged Dove bars you pull from a refrigerated glass case. This is Kawartha ice cream, in gallon bins, twelve different flavors. This is minutes from our boat. Dangerous. Captain Patrick’s favorite is Pralines and Cream. The Admiral’s, Maple Walnut. Everyone knows Patrick’s U.S. favorite is black raspberry. Canadian black raspberry is vanilla ice cream with ribbons of raspberry jam through it. Not the same!

When we depart we buy some for the boat freezer. We ration it out like the almond creamer for my morning coffee.

Bridal Veil Falls

There are two paths to the Bridal Veil Falls. The shorter one follows the highway to the entrance where cars pull up and visitors descend stairs to the falls. The longer one is a walking trail through the forest along the river. I opt for the longer one. I walk solo and am surprised I do not see anyone. It is so peaceful though, with the sound of the stream and the canopy of tree branches overhead.

I was told it was a 15-minute walk. I get concerned when I do not see any signs. I am always afraid of getting lost. Finally, I see some people and the falls just ahead. What a surprise!

The next day Captain Patrick joins me for a walk to the falls. I soon realize just what a hurry I was in yesterday – hell bent to reach those falls. Patrick points out all these features I missed yesterday! Stone turtle, rock sculptures, bronze deer, cairns in the river stream, and little houses at the base of trees. I appreciate his keen eye and his advice to slow down and take it “one day at a time!”

Sometimes you cannot see the forest for the trees. Here are more photos from the Bridal Veil Falls.

Photos from our stay at Kagawong:

Heywood Island – July 11, 2023

Cruising the North Channel

The Captain wants to cruise the North Channel, and that is what we are doing. It’s July 11 and we are heading for Heywood Island in Browning Cove. During our 7.5 hour, 47.6 nautical miles, we do not see one boat – not one – until we approach our destination. We did see water – lots and lots of water! It’s like boating on the ocean. Makes one realize just how vast Georgian Bay is, and the North Channel.

Georgian Bay and the North Channel

Perhaps you are like me, who, before the Great Loop, had never heard of Georgian Bay or the North Channel. Below are maps of these areas. I have circled the destinations we have either visited or plan to visit.

Georgian Bay is the northeastern arm of Lake Huron in Ontario. At 5,792 square miles it’s not that much smaller than Lake Ontario (7,320 square miles), earning it the nickname “the sixth Great Lake.” The bay is 120 miles long and 50 miles wide, stretching from Killarney in the east to Thessalon in the West. With more than 1,240 miles of grayish-pink granite shoreline, it is part of a UNESCO biosphere reserve and a summer freshwater playground for boaters, anglers, and kayakers.

The North Channel is the northern part of Lake Huron, where Lake Huron intersects northern Lake Superior and southern Lake Michigan.

It stretches approximately 120 miles and is bordered on the east by Georgian Bay, on the west by the St. Marys River, to the north by the eastern Algoma District and part of the Sudbury District, and to the south by the islands of Manitoulin, Cockburn, Drummond and St. Joseph. At its widest point it is over 20 nautical miles wide, narrowing down to less than 0.5 nautical miles in several places.

The North Channel is considered to be premier cruising for boaters. Many compare it to cruising in the British Virgin Islands. We are so blessed to have this opportunity.

Here are two more maps of Georgian Bay and the North Channel.

Ladybug Rescue

As we cruise Georgian Bay toward Heywood Island, I am underneath in the cabin. I notice a red ladybug caught between the screen and the glass in the porthole window. I catch her with a paper towel and let her out the main cabin door. Off she flies.

What satisfaction, knowing I helped her to finally escape. I know the feeling, little one.

I’ve always heard ladybugs bring good luck. Let’s hope that holds true.

No More Lamenting

Ok, so I’ve lamented on spending so much time on the water. I won’t anymore. It is all in the attitude. Plus it is worth it once we reach such interesting anchorages or marinas.

Captain Pat is so busy while cruising. Consulting the navigation charts and making sure we are on track. My options to keep busy are daydreaming, reading, writing – and napping. I somehow cannot get into the exercise routine of last year – will have to work on that. I became so accustomed to the exercise classes at the gym. I am better with close-ended activities. Not open-ended ones.

After the first hour cruising, the water calms considerably and it is smooth sailing. The AGCLA flag is completely stationary. First time I’ve seen that.

We anchor in Browning Cove on Heywood Island, outside of Manitoulin Island, the largest freshwater island in the world.

Per Nebo, we traveled 7.5 hours, 47.6 nautical miles today.

Meeting Our First Looper Couple

We meet our first loopers. A couple pulls up alongside our boat in their kayaks. They are Jim and Cuqui, who hail from Key Biscayne, Florida.

They, too, will head to Little Current tomorrow. They share a wealth of knowledge regarding the North Channel. They concur on the recommendation we heard in Tobermory – to visit Kagamong. We add that to our destination list.

They texted us a photo of their boat – Thing 1 and Thing 2 – with their contact information.

Little Current – July 12

We leave Heywood Island the morning of July 12, headed to Little Current.

This is another port we visited last year. Entering Little Current you go under a swinging bridge. One realizes the advantage of having a smaller boat when you don’t have to wait to clear the bridge.

Sunshine slides into a slip at the town docks and we walk to lunch at the same place we dined last year – Elliott’s Diner. We thought of you, Elliott!

I heard on a Hidden Brain podcast on aging that given the option, older people will revisit a familiar restaurant when visiting a city, rather than try a new one. Might as well go with what you know is good.

After lunch we travel to Kagawong where we spend the next three days.

More About the Northern Channel

Although it seems like virgin territory, the Channel has had other lives. European explorers learned from the First Nations people how to use this channel as a major canoe highway for the fur trade in the 17^th and 18^th centuries. In the 19^th century, European settlers came to farm, fish, and log. Some islands still bear the scars of indiscriminate logging.

Many of the towns on Manitoulin Island have preserved that history in their museums. Accompanying the artifacts are historical photographs showing huge wharves and steamers that visited them. It’s hard to believe these small towns were once busy centers of commerce.

Sunday, July 9, we departed Hope Island headed for Tobermory. Per Nebo we traveled 8.5 hours, 69.3 nautical miles. This was a long day for Captain Pat.

Nebo is a specialized GPS device powered by the boat’s batteries and communicates with its own SIM. Family and friends download the free app and can follow Sunshine’s progress and voyage.

Nebo provides Captain Pat with detailed voyage logs and summaries of all boating activity. You can also keep in touch with fellow boaters. AGLCA (America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association) members are shown in Nebo with the AGLCA logo as their boat marker.

Tobermory (population 1,500) is a tourist town attracting boaters, divers and bikers. People drive here to take the Chi-Cheemaun (Ojibwa for “big canoe”), a vehicle and passenger ferry that runs to and from South Baymouth on Manitoulin Island. This is one of only two ways to take a vehicle to Manitoulin Island. The only other way is the single-lane swing bridge at Little Current. It is common to see buses and transport trucks on the ferry as well as the usual tourist traffic.

There are glass-bottom boat tours for viewing wrecks, sunset cruises, and fishing and diving charters. Tour boats also visit Flowerpot and Cove Islands and the caves on the Bruce Peninsula.

We visited Tobermory last fall when cruising Georgian Bay. We viewed Flowerpot and Cove Islands, and climbed the observation tower at the Parks Canada Visitor Centre. (This was the first time Captain Pat learned of the Admiral’s disdain for heights.)

 Docking in Tobermory

I like familiar places and this town fits that bill. Carla the dockmaster asked if we preferred a slip further up or more downtown, where the action is. We prefer near the laundromat. So downtown we docked, in the exact spot we had last year.

A father with two children helped us dock the boat. His young daughter – maybe ten – was an expert with the lines. She even did this fancy knot – see below – and showed me how. I tipped her $5 the customary tip for dock hands.) Boy was she excited! Her father laughed and said she’s been helping the boaters all day, but we were the only ones to tip her.

Boats on the dock are so close you naturally strike up conversations and get to know people. Across the way from Sunshine were a red tugboat named Triumph and a Bennetto sailboat named Belle Bête. This means Beautiful Beast. The sailboat owner has raced his boat in the Mackinac Island sailboat races for 30 plus years. That’s where they were headed next.

We asked Belle Bête’s Captain if he was on Nebo. He didn’t know what Nebo was. After we explained he commented “I’d never get that. I don’t want anyone to know where I am.”

Visiting the Laundromat

The laundromat is always an adventure. Kind of like going to Wal-Mart in Laconia, New Hampshire. Lots of nose rings, tattoos, and blue or pink hair. This one was too busy with both locals and boaters. In these small towns you often run into the same people. I met a woman in the laundromat and later saw her working at the local grocery store.  In restaurants we see neighboring boaters and other familiar faces.

Tobermory Culinary Treats

There are two things I had to get in Tobermory – a London Fog and a Beavertail. The London Fog is hot tea with foamed milk – tea meets cappuccino. The Beavertail is a pastry coated with melted butter, cinnamon and sugar. It reminds me of the cinnamon toast my mom used to fix.

Morning Buddies

Early mornings are peaceful. No people out – looks like a ghost town. On my way to the washroom, there are ducks to greet me. They are not afraid at all. They sit there and don’t move, seemingly unaware of your presence.

Rainy Grocery Shopping

We were disappointed to learn the downtown grocery store had moved up the street. It’s a fifteen-minute walk. One day we walked in the rain to the bank and the grocery store. Captain Pat needed popcorn and the Admiral zero sugar lemonade. Turns out no need for more Canadian money as we plan to be in the States in two weeks. It was actually fun, in our rain gear, sloshing along. Turned out to be a sunny afternoon later.

Iffy Weather Meant Another Night

The Captain does a great job tracking the weather. We had planned to leave July 11, but decided not to due to the weather. We ended up staying an extra night – yeah!

Captain Pat’s go to weather app is windy.com. This app has proven beneficial in avoiding inclement weather. It is specially designed for marine and airplane weather tracking. It gives a 14-day forecast and reports on the wind gust, wind direction, and waves. Captain Pat also consults weather.com.

July 12 we departed Tobermory for our next stop – Browning Cove at Heywood Island. Here are more photos from our meanderings in Tobermory.

Captain Pat has put together our travel plan for the next two weeks. Of course the timeline is contingent upon weather and other calamities. We’ve learned to remain flexible. “We are in no rush.”

Above you can see our plan mapped out on the Navionics software. It starts at Tobermory (bottom right) and ends at Drummond Island (top left.) Here are the numbered stops listed above:

1. Browning Cove – Heywood Island
2. Little Current 2b. Kagawong*
3. Croker Island
4. Benjamin Main or South Cove
5. Gore Bay
6. Taschereau Bay
7. Turnbull Island
8. Blind River Marina Park
9. Cockburn Island*
10. Drummond Island Yacht Haven

*Note: Since creating this plan, boating friends told us about Kagawong – not to miss the Bridal Veil Waterfalls there. Also, our looper friends Jim and Cuqui told us not to bother with Cockburn Island. There is nothing there. Always good to learn from other loopers.

We will clear customs at Drummond Island to enter the United States and say good by to Canada.

You can see from the Navionics chart (bottom right corner) this route is 178.8 nautical miles.

Saturday, July 8, we finally depart Penetanguishene for our Great Loop journey! It is not without some trial and tribulation.

Everything is finished on the boat. Or so we thought. The new water pump installed, the solar panels working, the electronics, Nebo. We are all excited to leave Friday, July 7.

I pass Aaron, our master mechanic, on the dock Thursday afternoon.

“Aaron! We are leaving tomorrow. You will be glad to get us out of your hair!’

Aaron looks down, a little dejected.

“Well … I’m not so sure about that,” he replied.

What ?!

I walk onto the boat. Captain Pat is anything but happy.

“The only thing on this boat that hasn’t been replaced!”

“What?”

“I just tried the anchor. The gears are frozen. We need a new windless. Not sure we can even locate one.”

Oh my goodness.  This is bad. Oh well, I tell myself. At least no one is sick.

Yet.

So, Amanda in the office gets busy and locates a windles that fits our boat. Dean or Amanda will pick it up in the morning – in Barry, about 50 kilometers from the marina. They will then install it and we will be on our way.

However – 4 a.m. Friday morning – Patrick awakens, dizzy, with nausea. Everything is spinning. We both are worried.

Turns out it is vertigo, probably from the sinus infection he’s been nursing all week. Our primary care physician is willing to call in meds to the local pharmacy. Only we discover that won’t happen as only prescriptions from a Canadian licensed physician will be accepted.

It’s a new experience with health care in Canada. And not a good one.

We finally manage to get prescriptions phoned in from “Good Doctor” (an online only Canadian prescription service that charges $70 up front.) I borrow Aaron’s car, get the prescriptions and now we are back in business. 

In the meantime, we also discover some vertigo solution maneuvers on You Tube that prove helpful.

Saturday morning, we are off! Headed to Hope Island – appropriately named for our first destination on our Great Loop journey, Part II!

Below are photos of favorite memories from Harbour West Marina, and our journey to Hope Island – first cruise on our Great Loop journey, Part II.

Journey and Hope Island Arrival