Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure

Time to leave Chicago!

We never imagined experiencing Chicago as we have. This is a wonderful opportunity, thanks to the generosity of Polly and Bruce. We’ve tried to capture our special moments in our blogs. Stay tuned for blog posts about the architecture, parks, riverwalk and visits with family members Vicki and David, and our friend Tom.

Many have asked – why so long in Chicago? Good question. Captain Pat and the Admiral discussed this very question this morning and came to one conclusion:

“Mother Nature has the final say.”

Those Darned Locks

As you know, the initial reason for staying in Chicago was to wait for the opening of the locks on the river system. We knew the Corp of Engineers was completing repairs of the locks. The AGLCA (America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association) has been leading the charge of corralling boaters to make the exit through the locks. There are an estimated 300 boats doing the Great Loop this year.

Kim Russo, AGLCA Director, requested each Looper boat to submit their first, second and third choice for leaving, beginning October 1, the date of the locks reopening. Captain Pat gave our request as October 16. His reasoning was to let most of the boaters go through before we do. Hopefully by October 16, the glitches are worked out and there isn’t mad chaos of too many boaters.

All good, until Kim announced a five-day delay for the AGLCA flotillas to begin going through the locks, to let the commercial barges through and work out any glitches. This pushed our October 16 date to October 21. Who could have predicted this would happen?

Take the Risk?

Looper friends Doug and Norma needed to get back to California for a wedding on October 14. Doug was not willing to wait until October 6 and decided to go on his own October 1, the first day of the lock opening. He took the risk, and it worked out. In hindsight, perhaps we should have done the same. But we would have missed some great visits with family and friends!

Mother Nature

Then – Mother Nature strikes. This weekend, gale-force storms hit Lake Michigan. The Looper boats stationed in Hammond, Indiana, awaiting their lock opening, had to wait out the storm. This caused another delay – of three days. Better to be safe than sorry!

So – our plans now are to get to Hammond, hopefully Tuesday, October 17. We will fuel up the boat, get a pump out, and hopefully be through the locks a few days later, heading for St. Louis, Missouri.

With sunny skies and warm winds, Chicago is a terrific place to visit. It’s a walkable city with many attractions. We enjoyed it immensely.

However, it is a different story when the weather turns and you see why Chicago is called “the Windy City.”

The Admiral is grateful for the Captain’s vigilant watch of the weather conditions. He always puts safety first. It’s challenging as this boating adventure requires constant strategizing. You have to stay flexible – always. Say a prayer for us as we continue our journey. Stay tuned for our photo under the Gateway Arch of S

Chicago, Illinois

I appreciate anything related to the U.S. Navy. My father served as a Navy signalman on a war ship in WWII. My brother Gary was a Lieutenant Commander in the Navy, and several family members and friends have served.

I’ve wondered if because of the Loop if I’ve spent more time on a boat than my father! Pretty sure my time on a boat is more enjoyable than his. I may miss home, but I have a feeling he missed home more.

A familiar site from our boat is the Ferris wheel located at the Navy Pier. We have visited the pier a few times during our stay in Chicago.

Chicago’s lakeshore playground, the Navy Pier includes gardens, restaurants, and attractions. Built in 1916, the 3,300 foot long pier juts out of Lake Michigan and features a Ferris wheel, carousel and an IMAX theater.

Dining at the Navy Pier

There are many dining options – from Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville to McDonald’s to Latin inspired Bar Sol – Mariscos or Lirica. Chicago’s famed restaurants have a presence here as well: Harry Caray’s, Giordano’s and Billy Goat Tavern.

One afternoon we met our friends George and Tracy and their family at the Pier. We stopped at Harry Caray’s. George wanted an authentic “Chicago hot dog.” His visiting brother picked up their tab, saying “that’s the most I’ve spent on hot dogs and beers!” And the hot dogs weren’t that good! The sports memorabilia in Harry Caray’s almost made up for it. There was even “Wilson the Volleyball,” Tom Hanks’ beloved companion from his movie, Cast Away.

Offshore Rooftop is the nation’s largest rooftop venue, adjacent to Navy Pier’s Festival Hall at 1000 East Grand, and offers panoramic, unmatched views of Lake Michigan and the city skyline, providing a completely unique perspective not found anywhere else. Weekdays they have happy hour $5 appetizers with 1/2 off wine and beer. Of course I find this out the weekend we are leaving.

Something for Everyone

An ideal family destination, the site is also home to the Chicago Children’s Museum as well as the Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows, which features more than 150 pieces, including 11 Tiffany windows.

The Navy Pier encompasses over 50 acres of parks, gardens, shops, restaurants, family attractions and exhibition facilities. It is one of the most visited attractions in the entire Midwest, drawing over nine million visitors annually, and is Chicago’s second-most visited tourist attraction.

There are many outdoor attractions at the Navy Pier Park, such as the Pepsi Wave Swinger, Light Tower Ride, Remote Control Boats,Teacups, Drop Tower and the Carousel.

Crystal Gardens is a one-acre, botanical garden inside the pier. It is a six-story glass atrium with a 50-foot arched ceiling.

The Amazing Chicago’s Funhouse Maze is on the pier. It is a self-paced, full sensory maze experience where a person navigates their way through 4,000 square feet of tunnels and mazes.

Chicago Shakespeare Theater, a theater that performs Shakespeare’s productions, is located there.

 Many outdoor art installations are displayed on the pier. The anchor from the naval vessel USS Chicago is on display at the far end.

Other art installations include a statue of actor Bob Newhart on a couch as seen on The Bob Newhart Show.

The Captain on the Helm statue is dedicated to maritime captains, and the Crack the Whip sculpture of eight children at play holding hands by J. Seward Johnson.

One day we sat on these comfy lounge sofas, watching the boats, the seagulls and the people.

We walked by the auditorium and peered in. It was locked. They were setting up for a Navy Seals dinner.

Milton Lee Olive Park

We stumbled upon a quiet park just north of the Navy Pier – Milton Lee Olive Park. Boats are anchored in Lake Michigan, and there is a beach surrounded by the high rises of downtown Chicago. The boaters were partying – reminded us of Lake Boca. Wedding parties were setting up for their celebrations. Loungers looking for a quiet afternoon slept in hammocks they strewn on the trees. They have the right idea!

We so enjoyed our visit to the Navy Pier – I hope to return.

Chicago, Illinois

Our Looper friends, Tracy and George, invite us to join them for a visit to the Shedd Aquarium. This highly ranked aquarium holds about 32,000 fish and animals and is the third largest aquarium in the Western Hemisphere, after the Georgia Aquarium and Monterey Bay Aquarium.

At one time it was the largest indoor facility in the world. It is the first inland aquarium with a permanent saltwater fish collection.  The aquarium contains 1,500 species, including fish, marine mammals, birds, snakes, amphibians, and insects. In 1987, Shedd Aquarium was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

In 1971, Shedd Aquarium added one of its most popular exhibits, a 90,000-US-gallon (340,000 L) exhibit reproducing a Caribbean coral reef. That same year, the aquarium acquired its first research vessel, a 75-foot (23 m) boat for exploring the Caribbean, manned by a crew to conduct field research and collect specimens.

In 1985, this boat was replaced with the aquarium’s current vessel, the Coral Reef II. The Coral Reef II is indispensable to the aquarium’s conservation research and education programs. The 80-foot custom-built boat serves as a mobile basecamp and laboratory for field researchers and is the jumping-off point to Caribbean reefs for budding college and high school marine biologists.

We enter the aquarium, visit the gift shop, and immediately see several exhibit rooms from different global regions – Waters of the World; Amazon Rising; and Wild Reef.

Waters of the World Exhibit

The oldest galleries in the aquarium feature exhibits on oceans, rivers, islands and lakes, and Chicago’s own local waters. Species on exhibit include American bullfrog, a giant Pacific octopus, American alligator, lake sturgeon, starfish, lined seahorses, and alligator snapping turtle. 

The Octopus

The octopus is intriguing to me. The aquarium guide tells us he is nicknamed “Houdini.” The octopus is very intelligent and capable of escaping the aquarium tank! They place food in a closed jar, and the octopus can unscrew the lid with his arms.

An octopus has eight appendages, each of which has rows of suckers running its length. But these are not tentacles — in strict anatomical terms, they are arms. A tentacle has suckers only on its pad-shaped ending. Squid and cuttlefish have arms, but also tentacles.

Here is a list of the ten most intelligent animals, recently updated in 2023. Octopus comes in sixth.

1. Orangutan
2. Bottlenose dolphin
3. Chimpanzee
4. Elephant
5. African Grey Parrot
6. Octopus
7. Pig
8. Crow
9. Pigeon
10. Rat

This list surprises me!

The Sturgeon Touch Pool

You can interact with a living fossil at the sturgeon touch pool in the Home on the Great Lakes exhibit. These bottom-dwelling lake fish have survived for more than 200 million years, outliving the dinosaurs!

This hands-on encounter allows you to learn about this cartilaginous fish, and how we can protect the sturgeon’s home—The Great Lakes.

Tracy and I decide to try it. After washing our hands and rolling up our sleeves, we plunge our hands into the water, feeling the leathery texture of the sturgeon’s skin and the hard bony plates that encase their bodies.

Amazon Rising

The Amazon Rising exhibit is an 8,600-square-foot (800 m²) walkthrough flooded forest recreation of the Amazon River and the surrounding jungle This exhibit contains 250 different species, and its highest water level is 6 feet (1.8 m).

Species from this area on exhibit include a green anaconda, red-bellied piranhas, electric eels, freshwater eels, freshwater stingrays, dwarf caimans, Calman lizards, river turtles, red-footed and yellow-footed tortoises, Mata Matas, Arapaima, and different species of South American birds, fish, and frogs. 

Wild Reef Exhibit

In 2003, Shedd opened Wild Reef, a permanent exhibit located two levels below the main building. The exhibit contains a total of 525,000 US gallons (1,990,000 L) and recreates a Philippine coral reef on the Apo Island marine reserve, complete with living coral, multiple species of fish and rays, and a collection of sharks, such as sandbar, zebra, blacktip reef sharks, white-spotted guitarfish, Spotted wobbegongs, and Japanese wobbegongs. 

The main draw of this attraction is a 400,000-US-gallon (1,500,000 L) shark tank with 12-foot (3.7 m) high curved windows, allowing visitors a diver’s-eye view. The Wild Reef exhibit also features a saltwater tank display area where coral is propagated and grown for conservation purposes.

The shark exhibit is very popular. A lot of people snap their photo with the sharks.

Oceanarium

In 1991, Shedd Aquarium opened the Abbott Oceanarium, a large addition to the aquarium that features marine mammals, including Pacific white-sided dophins, beluga whites, sea otters and California sea lions. Next to the sea lions is an open estuary tank for several cuttlefish.

By the sea otter exhibit is a large natural looking touch tank for tide pool creatures like crabs, sea cucumbers and sea anemones. The lower level of the Oceanarium allows underwater viewing of the beluga whales and the dolphins.The beluga whale is an Arctic and sub-Arctic cetacean, white in color, and often called “white whales.”

The Oceanarium is the largest indoor marine mammal facility in the world.  It holds 3 million US gallons (11,000,000 L) in total; the largest single tank is the 2-million-US-gallon (7,600,000 L) “Whale Harbour”.

The Oceanarium also houses a 1,000-seat amphitheater which presents an educational marine mammal show. Dolphins and the white whales perform, similar to the shows seen at Sea World. We are disappointed we will miss the last show of the day, as it is the same time we are scheduled to view a 4D presentation. Next time!

Sea Lions

Three of Shedd’s five sea lions are rescues, but each came to the aquarium in a different way. Cruz was a pup when he was found blinded in both eyes on the California coast. Even though he is blind, his trainer at the Aquarium takes special care of him and he is able to fend for himself – and even do some tricks.

Laguna was found stranded and starving on California beaches—not once, but twice! Culling can be the next step, but government wildlife agencies and the marine mammal community collaborated to find him a home at Shedd.

Tanner was also rescued after he was seen eating endangered salmon at the Bonneville Dam. Tanner became dangerously overweight. He was moved from the Dam – but he always made his way back there! He just loved to eat the salmon.

4D Theater

The 4D Theater opened in 2009 as part of the renovation of the Abbott Oceanarium. The 4D experience includes a 4D film with interactive seats, high-tech audio and interactive elements like scents and bubbles.

Via video, you can meet an octopus, dive with sharks, or learn about nature’s most devoted parents — penguins. Your chair vibrates, the air moves, lights flash and other surprises await.  

We purchase tickets for the shark video presentation – BBC Earth’ s Shark: a 4D Experience.

Stingray Touch

Our final aquarium activity for the day is the “Stingray Touch.” Located on the aquarium’s South Terrace, this exhibit allows guests to touch cownose rays as they swim around their 20,000 US gallons (76,000 L.)

This outdoor exhibit is open seasonally from May through October. Each of us place our hands into the water to touch at least one stingray. Captain Pat has the magic touch. The stingrays follow him around as he walks the perimeter of the pool.

Aquarium “Encounters”

This was a super fun day. I can see why this aquarium is highly ranked. The Aquarium offers several “encounters” you can pay extra for. There you can meet the penguins, sea otters, beluga whales, sea lions, sharks, dolphins and more.

Thank you, Tracy and George, for inviting us! We highly recommend a visit to this Aquarium.

Wrigley Field – Go Cubs!

Can’t believe I’ve been to two MLB games this year. The first was in Phoenix to see the Diamondbacks play (compliments of son-in-law Jeff) and next in Chicago to see the Cubs. Captain Pat is excited for his first visit to Wrigley Field, after growing up in Boston watching the Red Sox at Fenway Park.

Our Chicago Looper friends, Polly and Bruce, join us and lead the way to the Chicago “L” Red Line and to Wrigleyville.

Wrigleyville

Established in 1914, Wrigley Field is the centerpiece and namesake of the former working-class neighborhood of Wrigleyville. The area is now a tourist hub that swells with activity during Chicago Cubs home games. It’s densely packed with lively sports bars and cool pubs, as well as baseball-themed gift shops that line Sheffield, Addison, and Clark streets.

Although not a baseball fan, experiencing an MLB game is exciting – an American pastime. It’s a shame the price of admission to ballparks – Fenway comes to mind – prohibits the average American family from enjoying this experience. Hint from Captain Pat: don’t buy from the ticketing agency; go directly to the team site. He did and we got great seats for half the price.

This is the last home game for the Cubs and the fans are rallying for a win. Polly reiterates there are no more loyal fans than Cubs fans – whether they are winning or losing.

After peanuts and popcorn and the seventh inning stretch, we venture up the rafters to see our other Looper friends, Tracy and George, and Donna and Doug. We return to our seats to continue watching the game. A batter named Patrick Wisdom approaches the plate.

Captain Pat proclaims, “he is going to hit a home run.” (He liked his name.) Sure enough, Patrick Wisdom did hit a home run, the play of the game. After more exciting plays, the Cubs bring home a win. The crowd erupts, the music plays, and before the exit frenzy begins, we decide to head to the subway for home.

Following the game, we stop at Harry Caray’s for dinner.

We sit at the bar so Polly can watch the Cubs football game. Unfortunately, Kansas City is clobbering them. The food is delicious and Harry Caray’s is amusing with its thousands of celebrity photos and a vault belonging to Al Capone. (We visit this later on our Gangster Food Tour!)

What a fun day! Here’s more information about Wrigley Field:

“The Friendly Confines”

Wrigley Field opened as Weeghman Park and was named Cubs Park from 1920 to 1926 before being renamed Wrigley Field in 1927. Chewing gum magnate William Wrigley, Jr. acquired the Cubs in 1921. The stadium currently seats 41,649 people and is the second stadium named Wrigley Field, as a Los Angelese ballpark with same name opened in 1925.

Wrigley Field is nicknamed “The Friendly Confines,”, a phrase popularized by Hall of Fame shortstop and first baseman Ernie Banks. The oldest park in the National League, it is the second-oldest in the majors after  Fenway Park (1912) and the only remaining Federal League park. The park was designated a National Historic Landmark in 2020.

Wrigley Field’s features include its ivy-covered brick outfield wall, distinctive wind patterns off Lake Michigan, the red marquee over the main entrance, and the hand-turned scoreboard.

The stadium is situated in a primarily residential neighborhood without parking lots, and spectators have views from the rooftops behind the outfield. It is the last Major League Park to have lights installed for night games, in 1988.  The elevation of its playing field is 600 feet (180 m.) above sea level.

Hand-Turned Scoreboard

Along with Fenway Park’s scoreboard and Minute Maid Park, Oakland-Alameda County Coliseum and Oracle Park’s out of town scoreboards, Wrigley is one of the last parks to maintain a hand-turned scoreboard. 

A number turner watches the score changes on a computer (a ticker tape machine was used in the past) and updates the scoreboard by manually replacing the numbers from within the scoreboard. The scoreboard is made of sheet steel. The numbers that are placed into the inning windows are also steel, painted forest green, and numbered with white numerals. The box for the game playing at Wrigley uses yellow numerals for the current inning. The clock, which sits at the top center of the scoreboard, has never lost time in its 82-year existence!

Stadium Lights

The Cubs were a holdout against night games for decades, not installing lights at Wrigley until 1988, after baseball officials announced that the park would be prohibited from hosting any future postseason games without lights. Before then, all games at Wrigley were played during the day. Night games are still limited in number by agreement with the city council.

On November 7, 2022, Wrigley Field upgraded to LED field lights.

“Take Me Out to the Ball Game”

The tradition of singing “Take Me Out to the Ball Game” at Cubs home games began when Hall of Fame announcer Harry Caray arrived in 1982 (he had sung it the preceding seven years as a broadcaster for the White Sox) and has remained a Wrigley Field staple. After Caray’s death, the tradition of a guest conductor began, with former baseball players, other sports stars, actors, and other celebrities invited to sing during the Seventh Inning Stretch. Among the best-known guests have been actor Bill Murray, former Bears coach Mike Ditka, comedian Jay Leno, NASCAR driver Jeff Gordon, singers Ozzy Osbourne and Eddie Vedder, former Chicago lead singer Peter Cetera, boxer and actor Mr. T, actor and lifelong Cub fan Gary Sinise, actors Tom Arnold, James Belushi, Vince Vaughn, Melissa McCarthy, and Illinois-native country music singer Brett Eldredge.

Organ Music

Wrigley Field was the first Major League ballpark to introduce live organ music on April 26, 1941. The stadium’s first organist was Ray Nelson. As of July 2019, organist Gary Pressy holds the record for 2,653 consecutive games played, never having missed a day’s work in 33 years! Today, most major league ballparks have replaced the traditional live organist with canned music programmed by a DJ. Pressy says: “I don’t think it’s a dying art, especially at Wrigley Field … The team respects tradition.”

He retired after the 2019 season. John Benedeck is the current organist.

West Basin Marina

September 5 – September 10, 2023

What a Marina!

West Basin Marina in St. Joseph, Michigan, wins the prize for the cleanest marina with the friendliest and most helpful staff.

The grounds, facilities and office lounge at West Basin Marina are pristine and the laundry is free! That’s a plus for sure.

Marinas have distinctive sounds – squawking Canadian geese; seagulls screeching; clip clop of horse hooves in Mackinac; whistling from sail masts; buoy balls banging on docks. This marina has a first though – “clickety clack clack” and whistling – from a train! The marina is adjacent to a train track that carries aggregates and commodities. We watch the boxcars whiz by in both directions.

The only downside to this marina is that it is not close to the downtown area for shopping or dining.

Captain Pat takes advantage of the free bikes provided, even riding to Wolf’s, a well-known boating supply store. Captain Pat is a little disappointed in Wolf’s – he heard so much about it from fellow Loopers. Turns out it is very similar to Sailorman in Ft. Lauderdale – lots of boating merchandise in disarray. Amazon proves to be a better bet.

The marina staff provides rides to the grocery store upon request. One morning we get a ride to Martin’s, a locally owned store with lots of selections. In the store we treat ourselves to a lunch of fresh sushi and Starbucks lattes!

Mexican with George and Tracy

We arrive and to my surprise, there is our friend Tracy from the Looper boat “Done Saving” at the dock to help us tie up. When Tracy heard on the radio we were coming in, she headed over to our slip to help. Boaters, especially Loopers, are so generous, always willing to lend a helping hand.

It’s always a treat to meet up with Loopers at the marinas. Some you see more often than others, as everyone’s speed and travel destinations vary.

Our first evening we join Tracy and her husband George for Mexican. They are always fun and we love the festive vibe from the restaurant. George secures a ride for us to the restaurant. After dinner we decide to walk the mile back to the marina. The time flew by and before you know it, we are back on our boats. Tracy and George leave the next morning to continue their journey to Hammond, Indiana. Because of windy weather conditions, we end up staying five nights in St. Joseph.

Evening Walks

Each night Captain Pat walks to the nearby park with a walking pier to the lighthouse and a beach.

Most nights the Admiral joins him. These are memorable evenings. We always peruse the boats on the docks. This is a must for Captain Pat.

One evening we think we’ve located “No Rush,” the boat sold by our Looper friends Anne and Mitch. We send them a photo and discover this is a second “No Rush” – same boat type, Camino Troll, as theirs and the same name, “No Rush!” This “No Rush” also completed y completed the Loop. St. Joseph is their home port.

We also meet two older gentlemen who are long timers in this marina. They’ve sailed and motored many boats and raced in sailing regattas. Tonight, they are going out in their refurbished Century boat aptly named “Rumble Bee” – see photo below.

Century’s production facilities are now in Zephyrhills, Florida, having moved from Manistee, Michigan and Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Allcraft Marine of Florida bought Century from Yamaha in 2012.

Here are more photos from our evening walks:

Beach at Tiscornia Park

Toes in the sand always feels good even if it’s a little chilly. I always marvel at the seagulls and the tiny sanderlings.

Every night we see photographers snapping family photos. These children play blissfully as their parents frolic in the sand for the photographer.

What a backdrop with the glimmering sunset and majestic waves. One evening there is a wedding.

The bridal party barely dodge the thunderstorm. Wonder if rain is really a sign of luck for wedding couples.

Amazing Kite Surfers

Thursday evening it is so windy Captain Pat cannot walk out to the end of the pier. He captures photos of the waves crashing over the seawall. The Admiral didn’t accompany him on this night.

The next night the wind subsides. We walk up to the pier and see many kite surfers.

I have never seen kite surfers in action. We watch one surfer prepare his equipment to make his launch into the water.

These surfers are amazing! I can imagine the strength and balance required to maintain their flying presence in the sky and on the water. Our photos do not do them justice.

Stormy Winds, Rough Seas

That same evening, we witness a sailboat attempting to enter the inlet. We watch it from afar, wondering if it is headed for the inlet. It is.

That sailboat is rocking and rolling. The two sailors on board wrestle with the waves and they eventually make it, miraculously.

We arrive back to our boat after our walk and realize the sailboat is docked in front of Sunshine! We introduce ourselves and congratulate them on their seafaring expertise. The two boys sailed the boat from Chicago. They are exhausted and hungry and ready for a bite to eat. We share our videos and photos with them, so they have documentation of their adventure.

The Lure of Lighthouses

We have certainly seen our share of lighthouses on this trip. We never tire of them. The structures have a distinctive lure, a connection with the sea and the sky.

Each evening droves of people – and dogs! – walk the pier to this lighthouse, taking photos of the sunset and the ocean. There are also people fishing.

The marina manager warns us of the dangers of walking the lighthouse boardwalk. Many non-vigilant visitors have underestimated the dangers of Lake Michigan.

There is an ominous sign as you near the lighthouse, displaying photos of youth who have met their demise in these waters.

Enjoy the beauty of nature but also respect its power and strength.

Dining Al Fresca

On our last evening Captain Pat treats the Admiral by making dinner on the grill. He makes the best barbecued chicken. This reminds me of dinners at our lake cabin.

We dine al fresca on the wooden picnic table by the grill. Such a pleasant evening and the perfect way to say goodbye to West Basin Marina.

September 12, 2023

Hello from Captain Pat and Admiral Cindy on ‘Sunshine’.

We have one more blog to post, the last of our Lake Michigan town visits – St. Joseph, West Basin Marina. We can’t say enough about this marina – cleanest facilities, friendliest, helpful staff, and free laundry! More about that in our next blog.

However, we want to update you as to where we arrived Sunday, September 10 – Chicago, Illinois!

Journey to Chicago

We depart St. Joseph around 8:30 a.m. (eastern) and arrive Chicago around 1:30 p.m (central time) Not a bad ride – minimal waves most of the way.

I am nervous though, especially as we approach the towering skyline, which seems to go on forever.

Approaching Chicago, it was fun to watch the skyline come closer into purview. First sighting of the skyscrapers was 25 miles out!

As we near the entry channel, we see a dozen or so sailboats.

Sailboats have the right of way over motorboats. This poses a problem for the Captain. Which way are they going? and where is he supposed to go?

We finally make it around the sailboats and soon see the familiar lighthouses we have seen at each waterfront town. These lighthouses look so tiny next to the high rise buildings.

Arrival at DuSable Harbor

We call the marina – DuSable Harbor – and they tell us they will have dockhands available to help us dock. Docking always makes me nervous. We have a stern in, starboard tie. (That means you back the boat in.)

Sure enough, two dock hands are there to assist us – thank goodness. We make it in, no problem.

We are docked in Slip B53 at DuSable Harbor, compliments of our Looper friends Polly and Bruce. For this we are eternally grateful. We could pinch ourselves. The location couldn’t be better – right across from the marina office and facilities, and boardwalks to downtown Chicago.

We Leave for the Locks on October 16

This will be our home port until October 16. We just heard yesterday from the AGLCA our date to enter the Chicago Locks. We are in AGLCA Flotilla No. 16 (out of 20) to enter the Chicago locks. That means we are scheduled to go through the locks on October 16. As mentioned earlier, all Loopers (around 300 boats) completed a survey indicating their first, second and third choice on Flotilla dates. There are around 16 boats in a flotilla.

So I have a while to worry about this next portion of our trip. -:) Captain Pat is of course not worried at all. I figure this Chicago stop is a major milestone in our journey. The next milestones are: St. Louis, Kentucky, Alabama, crossing the Gulf, and then Florida!

Our Homeport of Chicago

We will probably take some side trips from Chicago to Wisconsin – no firm plans now. Just taking it one day at a time.

I’m loving this location! I am a country girl but also get excited when in a big city. Especially after living in Boston. I love the hustle and bustle and big buildings and diversity of people. There’s just this excitement in the air.

We are in a lovely part of Chicago. Clean, lots of parks, easy to walk anywhere. And there are bikes to rent.

Sunday Exploration

Sunday we asked for a map from the girl in the marina office. She looked at us like we were crazy. “Just go out here and follow the walkway. Follow the trail for walking or biking.” 🙂 I’ll just follow my phone.

We did meet a nice couple on our way to the grocery store. They live in a nearby high-rise. They took us to Mariano’s, a two-story fantastic grocery in a high-rise! (Everything is in a high-rise.) They also pointed out Greek, Mexican, and breakfast eateries. Everything is so convenient.

We had tacos and burritos at the Mexican restaurant to celebrate our safe arrival.

Later Sunday evening we walked to Target. I had my first “it fell in the water” episode in St. Joseph. At the marina dock, standing on the boat, my Apple AirPod fell from my right ear, right into the water. Target has a sale on them so off we go.

Along the way, crossing over the Chicago River bridge, Captain Pat points out the Chicago lock.

This is the first lock we will be going through on October 15. This lock is the staging lock. Then we go to the first big lock on the Illinois River for our October start down the rivers.

Stay tuned for more of our adventures in Chi town! Here are more photos from our first day in Chicago.

August 30 – September 4, 2023

Entering South Haven, Michigan, via the Black River we see all kinds of boats -even a pirate ship with tourists.

This is a popular waterfront destination with marinas to the north and south. We secure a slip at the south marina, the marina closest to the downtown area. As this is Labor Day weekend it’s even busier than usual. Lots of people traipsing the main walkway to and from town.

Looper Friends

We meet up with Tracy and George and two other Loopers (Donna and Doug aboard “Hattitude”, a 53’ Hatteras.) We laugh and swap boat stories over pizza and later ice cream. It’s wonderful to meet such warm and welcoming people. We share a lot of interests – especially endeavoring upon the Great Loop. Talk about a sub-culture. Over the weekend Captain Pat commiserated over boat issues with both George and Doug.

St. Basil Church

We locate a Mass at a Catholic church close to the marina – St. Basil’s. The name ‘Basil’ is dear to me because Basil Hayden is a distant relative who founded the first Catholic church in Kentucky. But what he’s better known for is the bourbon he distilled. ‘Basil Hayden’ is a popular bourbon brand today.

I do some research and discover that St. Basil, along with St. Chrysostom, is an early Church Father later designated a Doctor of the Church. St. Chrysostom influenced his friend Basil to convert to Catholicism. Basil was Bishop of Caesarea Mazaca (modern day Turkey) and Chrysostom was Archbishop of Constantinople.

‘Chrysostom’ is the middle name of my paternal grandfather, Hayden Chrysostom Thompson. I’ve never known anyone else with this name. How odd the two saints were friends.

The church of St. Basil is beautiful and even more impressive is its spacious campus that faces the beach. What a spectacular view. 

The Beach at South Haven

Monday, we take a walk to the beach and the lighthouse.

We are amazed at the number of people at the beach! It is a sunny day and a holiday. People took advantage of the weather to have one last soiree in the sun before autumn descends.

Captain Lou’s

Yes, the Admiral’s middle name is “Louise” – “Cindy Lou” – so I knew a restaurant named “Captain Lou’s” would be good. Actually, it was the packed crowds there every night that was the giveaway. I’ve fallen in love with “perch” as a fish to eat. Captain Lou’s is known for its perch baskets.

On our last night in South Haven we treat ourselves to dinner out at Captain Lou’s. I order the perch and am not disappointed.

The next morning, we head to our last stop on Lake Michigan – West Basin Marina in St. Joseph.

Here are more photos from our South Haven visit:

August 29, 2023

This one-night stop proves to have many surprises:

• Great Harvest – my favorite bakery
• Mexican and drones with Bill and Margie
• Grand Haven Musical Fountain Show

We depart Ludington early in the morning and follow Margie and Bill on their Grand Banks, Crustacean. Leaving Ludington, we see people out on their boats already fishing.

It is a nice ride to Grand Haven. Two lighthouses greet us as we enter the harbor, one shaped like the bow of a boat.

We dock ‘on the wall’ just outside the town. This is less expensive than staying at a marina ($40/night.) There is no water or electricity, but we can manage without that for one evening.

Great Harvest Bakery

A three-mile shop- and restaurant-lined boardwalk runs along the harbor to Grand Haven State Park beach and the south pier, home of the 1839 Grand Haven Lighthouse.

We see many joggers and families with strollers and dogs taking advantage of the boardwalk. We heard a trail with lake views winds through wooded dunes at nearby Rosy Mound Natural Area.

I take a quick walk downtown. Grand Haven is a welcome spot for boaters, with coffee shops, eateries, galleries, museums, and historical sites.  

But what catches my eye is the Great Harvest Bread Company.

You know how some spots just remind you of a favorite place? Great Harvest reminds me of Owensboro, Kentucky, my hometown. When in Owensboro we always go there for the best sandwiches and no-bake chocolate oatmeal cookies. This location does not serve lunch fare. They do offer fresh scones, breads, and cookies.

Best of all – you get a free sample of bread. This isn’t your Costco sample in a plastic cup. It’s a whole slice of fresh baked bread. So, you have to buy something. I leave with blueberry and cinnamon chip scones for tomorrow’s breakfast.

https://www.greatharvest.com/

I highly recommend a stop at Great Harvest if you ever get the chance. The atmosphere is so welcoming, with inspirational Christian quotes on the wall and friendly staff.

I Want What He’s Having

Ever gone to a restaurant, they serve the meals, and you think “I wish I had ordered that!” Margie and Bill scope out the town and recommend a Mexican restaurant steps away from our boat. Turns out to be a great choice

I can’t decide what to order – grappling between the sampler plate (taco, tostado, and enchilada) or the ‘special’ burrito. I opt for the sampler. Bill orders the burrito.

I should have ordered the burrito.

It’s the largest burrito I’ve ever seen. It would have fed me for three days. All our meals are wonderful with leftovers for later.

Sunshine Gets an Aerial Photo Shoot – from Bill’s Drone

The big surprise before dinner is the aerial photo shoot Bill conducts with his drone. I’m amazed how he can control the movement of the drone so accurately. And the quality of the camera. Bill takes several aerial shots of Sunshine and Grand Haven.

We are so grateful for these photos – and for Margie and Bill’s friendship. Both are amazing!

Grand Haven Musical Fountain

Grand Haven is known for its seasonal Grand Haven Musical Fountain that features synchronized light and water shows. It’s shown on a hill directly across from our boats.

Around 9 p.m. we join Bill and Margie on their fly bridge to watch the show – incredible view. The show was much more than I expected. It reminds me of the Bellagio water fountain show in Las Vegas. The colors, the sound system, the music selection – all spectacular. Fantastic free entertainment. Spectators on the boardwalk and in boats enjoy the show nightly.

Sunshine departs the next morning for South Haven, Michigan. Bill and Margie are staying in Grand Haven for a few more days. We sure hope to catch up with them later on, either in Chicago or down the rivers.

Leaving Grand Haven poses a bit of a problem with all the fishing boats. Margie aptly calls them “bumper boats.” Captain Pat finds a boat to follow.

His wake makes it a bit easier. Off we go to South Haven.

August 24 – 28, 2023

The two texts above – from Kathleen, Pat’s sister and Bill, her husband – aptly describe our voyage from Leland, Michigan to Frankfort, Michigan. We finally get a decent weather window, after five days in Leland, to head to Frankfort. We make such good time, we decide to skip Frankfort and go another 20 miles or so to Ludington.

The wind is at our back and Captain Pat steps up the speed (and the fuel usage!) This is our longest voyage for this year, at almost 80 miles.

It’s fun to see the sand dunes from the water – another perspective.

We spot a helicopter hovering close to the lake, near the fishing boats. There was a fishing tournament over the weekend at Frankfort. We think that’s the reason for the commotion.

We hear on the radio “64-year-old male, brown hair, thin, tall, is missing from his boat.” We later discover a fishing charter sank. Four passengers are rescued; one dies after the rescue. Unfortunately the captain of the ship is never found. What a tragedy.

Fuel prices are always an issue – who has the cheapest price? Diesel at Ludington is $4.18 a gallon – 50 cents cheaper than the last stop – so we head to the fuel dock before proceeding to our slip. We inquire about a pump-out – it’s only $5, so, yes, let’s do that too. It’s even better news when we learn pump-outs are free with $100 fuel purchase.

The dock hands are the usual teenagers who tell us about their school and sports, etc. ‘Reece’ even gives us a restaurant tip – Keeper’s Fish Shack – where her sister works. We do eat dinner there and it’s the best perch ever. Nothing fancy, just good food. It’s a family owned business – they live winters in the Keys.

The ice cream shop across the street – House of Flavors – is a 50’s style bebop diner with era music and decor. We have eaten so much ice cream on this trip!

The S.S. Badger

The first thing you notice at the Ludington marina is the S.S. Badger, a ferry that crosses Lake Michigan, taking passengers and vehicles from Ludington to Wisconsin. The Badger is not in service as of August this year because of unexpected damage to its ramp system, and will not resume service this season.

The S.S. Badger is the last coal-fired steamship in operation in the United States. She has provided a fun, reliable and affordable shortcut across Lake Michigan for more than 70 years and has transported millions of passengers since her re-birth in 1992.

In 2016 she received the nation’s highest historic honor when the Department of Interior officially designated the Badger as a National Historic Landmark. She is the only NHL that moves! The 410 foot S. S. Badger can accommodate 600 passengers and 180 vehicles, including RVs, motorcycles, motor coaches, and commercial trucks during her sailing season – mid-May to mid-October.

Aboard the Badger passengers have access to free movies and satellite television, Wi-Fi, Badger Bingo, lounge areas, gift shop, a toddler play area, an arcade, private staterooms, two food service areas, two bars and sprawling outside decks for lounging or walking.

Fishing in Ludington

We are amazed at the number of fishing boats in the water surrounding Badger. They stay way into the evening, even after dark.

I strike up a conversation with a woman in an RV, and I ask her about the fishing. “We go out every year at this time. Yesterday we caught six salmon!”

She is kind enough to share photos with me. I am amazed at the size of the salmon. Captain Pat and I need to learn to fish.

Ludington’s Waterfront State Park

The state of Michigan does a terrific job with the waterfront state parks and memorials in the small towns we visit. Ludington’s lakeside park has metal statues with historical explanations, and a playground. What a fast and pleasant to learn the history of the town.

I’m especially impressed with two of the memorial statues. One pays tribute to the farmers and their hard work. The other is a horse-drawn carriage that edifies that in addition to being majestic and fast creatures, horses have provided countless services to Americans.

Visit with Margie and Bill

Our Looper friends Margie and Bill, who took us to the Sleeping Bear Dunes, also dock in Ludington. One evening we enjoy walking around town and dinner at a local diner.

Margie is more resourceful than me. The grocery is not within walking distance. She inquires at the marina office as to transportation options and discovers there is a public transport service. The price per person is a whopping $1 per trip! So off to WalMart we go. This is quite the eventful ride with some entertaining passengers and driver.

We both depart early morning and head to Grand Haven, where we will dock on the wall for one night. We so enjoy their company and help. Here is their Grand Banks, Crustacean, departing Ludington.

Windy Walk to the Beach and Lighthouse

Captain Pat and I walk one windy afternoon to the breakwall by the beach, to see the lighthouse.

We decide it is just too windy to walk out to the lighthouse. We do see the Maritime Museum and Stearns Park.

We so enjoyed our visit to Ludington. Here are more photos from our stay:

August 24, 2023

Fellow Loopers Bill and Margie invite us to join them to visit the Sleeping Bear Sand Dunes. The dunes are south of Leland, Michigan as you head toward Frankfort.

Bill and Margie arrange for a driver to pick us up at the marina and take us to the Dunes. Our driver, Rick, a lifelong resident of the area, is both entertaining and knowledgeable. Despite foggy skies we see some spectacular views.

I have never heard of the Dunes. According to our tour guide the locals were a bit unnerved when CBS Good Morning America did a segment on the dunes a few years ago, increasing the number of annual summer tourists. The dunes were voted the “Most Beautiful Place in America.”

https://www.google.com/search?q=sleeping+bear+dunes+cbs+morning&oq=sleeping+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqBggAEEUYOzIGCAAQRRg7MgYIARBFGDsyBggCEEUYOzIHCAMQABiABDIKCAQQABixAxiABDIGCAUQRRhAMgYIBhBFGDkyBggHEEUYPdIBCDQyOTZqMGo3qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Sleeping Bear Dunes voted “Most Beautiful Place in America”

Miles of sand beach, bluffs that tower 450 feet above Lake Michigan, lush forests, clear inland lakes, unique flora and fauna make up this natural world of Sleeping Bear Dunes. The high dunes afford stunning views across the lake. An island lighthouse, U.S. Life-Saving Service stations, coastal villages, and picturesque farmsteads reflect the park’s rich maritime, agricultural, and recreational history.

Legend of the “Sleeping Bear”

The park is named after an Ojibwe legend of the sleeping bear. According to the legend, an enormous forest fire on the western shore of Lake Michigan drove a mother bear and her two cubs into the lake for shelter, determined to reach the opposite shore. After many miles of swimming, the two cubs lagged. When the mother bear reached the shore, she waited on the top of a high bluff.

The exhausted cubs drowned in the lake, but the mother bear stayed and waited, hoping that her cubs would finally appear. Impressed by the mother bear’s determination and faith, the Great Spirit created two islands (North and South Manitou islands) to commemorate the cubs, and the winds buried the sleeping bear under the sands of the dunes where she waits to this day.

The “bear” was a small tree-covered knoll at the top edge of the bluff that appeared like a sleeping bear from the water. Wind and erosion have caused the “bear” to be greatly reduced in size over the years.

The Town of Glen Haven

We stop at Glen Haven and walk to the beach overlooking Lake Michigan.

Glen Haven existed as a ‘company town’ from 1865 to 1931. Like most company towns, the workers were paid in company coupons, redeemable only at the company store. Originally a dock for Glen Arbor (1855-date), the site soon became a fuel supply point for ships traveling up and down the lake.

 Here, Charles McCarty decided to open his own business and built a dock to supply the ships with wood. In 1863, McCarty built the Sleeping Bear House. It was expanded a few years later to accommodate travelers. In 1928, it was remodeled into an inn for summer vacationers.

The General Store was established to supply the workers. The Blacksmith Shop is where tools were repaired. In 1878, David Henry Day arrived in the community. By this time, coal from the Appalachian coal fields was replacing wood on the steamships. Day was looking for another future for this small community.

D. H. Day built a farm, but he always lived in Glen Haven where he could hear the whistle of boats as hey approached his dock. This was the Great Lake frontier and Lake Michigan was the highway. Getting here by car wasn’t easy until M-109 was finished in 1929.

D. H. Day Campground

A campground was named after Day – the D.H. Day Campground – and is part of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. The site offers a moderate level of privacy and a beach on Lake Michigan. Campsites are rustic, wooded, and farther apart than campsites at most campgrounds. Nearby points of interest include Empire Bluffs, the “dune climb”, and North Bar Lake.

The Story of Pierce Stocking

Rick drives us along Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, where we stop to take photos of the covered bridge, forest trees and Lake Michigan, viewed from lookout stations.

Pierce Stocking (1908 – 1976) wanted to preserve this area’s natural beauty. In the early 1960s, the local lumberman began envisioning “a haven of rest” called Sleeping Bear Dunes Park. It opened to the public in 1967. For just $2.75 per vehicle, visitors could drive a fourteen-mile scenic roadway, relax at picnic areas, and delight in spectacular views of Lake Michigan, Glen Lake, and the sand dunes.

When Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore purchased Stocking’s park in 1976, they renamed it Philip Hart Nature Trail after the U.S. Senator from Michigan who fought to establish the Lakeshore six years earlier. Staff considered removing the scenic drive to protect the fragile dunes.

Ultimately, they realized what Socking had: if you want people to love this earth enough to conserve it, they also have to be able to enjoy it.

So the drive remained, and the Lakeshore renamed it in honor of Stocking and his resolve to preserve this place for future generations.

Views of Glen Lake and Lake Michigan

More than 10,000 years ago, enormous rivers of ice covered this land. They gouged the earth like plows and left piles of sand and gravel called moraines in their wake. The Sleeping Bear Dunes are perched upon the Manistee moraine, a large deposit of sand and gravel left by the glaciers.

Eventually the glaciers thawed, turning their deep tracks into large lakes of meltwater. One of these, LKW Nipissing, gradually became Lake Michigan as its water level fell.

Meanwhile, waves were eroding beaches and bluffs. Currents carried sediment along the shore to form sandbars. By about 2,000 years ago, those currents had deposited enough on either side of an island (that we now know as Alligator Hill) to landlock Glen Lake. Over time, grasses and trees took root. Today, this forested sandbar is where you will find the town of Glen Arbor – and a beach of ancient sand.

The Anishinaabek – first inhabitants of Sleeping Bear Dunes and surrounding area – form a confederacy of Three Fires: the Odawa and Ojibwe of the upper Great Lakes and the Potawatomi further south. In time, Europeans arrive and wars break out over the furs. In 1836, with sadness in their hearts, they sign a treaty, allowing Euro-Americans to occupy the land. Yet, unlike other tribes, they tenaciously resist removal and remain a vibrant part of norther Michigan today.

Here are more photos from our visit to the Sleeping Bear Sand Dunes:

Good bye, Sleeping Bear Dunes!