Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure

October 29, 2023

Some Days Are Good, Some Not So Good

The rain has not subsided. The wind kicked up overnight. The Captain keeps adjusting the anchor alarm, expanding the distance so the alarm will stop sounding.

Leaving Cape Girardeau, Mark on Paradise tries to connect with the boat anchored near him. Mark doesn’t want to run over his anchor when he departs. It’s early and we figure they are sleeping.

Finally, the boat captain responds, and Mark can steer Paradise out of the anchorage. We are ahead waiting for him.

There Really Is No Place Like HOME

I’m a firm believer in counting your blessings. But these two days it just seems the wind and rain and fog are relentless. We haven’t stepped off the boat in 48 hours, sleep is limited and nerves are on end. As my brother Gary commented in a text “sounds like it’s just one of those days.”

It is so cold. We keep the windows and doors open so the interior windows do not fog up and Captain Pat has some visibility. The hatches are leaking. Bowls are everywhere to catch the water.

 We’ve lived in Florida 30+ years. I’ve always been one to denounce Florida’s lack of seasons and the heat.

I will never complain again. I’ve decided, sure, it is nice – almost fairy tale – to experience the snow and cold when you are bundled up and it’s for a few hours, and then you are back cozy inside sipping hot coffee, wrapped in a comforter.

But that is not this experience. -😊 I think of the homeless, and how desperate they must feel when the frigid air hits and they have to seek cover. This trip has given me a new perspective on truly counting my blessings.

Entry Into the Ohio River

Entering the Ohio River is an exciting moment for me. I grew up in Owensboro, Kentucky, on the Ohio River across from Evansville, Indiana. According to our Looper guidebook, the Ohio River presents you with a mighty two – to three-mph current. Therefore, 6-knot boats become 3-knot boats and 13-mph boats become 9-knot boats.

The guidebook also says this is one part of the journey few Loopers enjoy. The last 48 miles to the Olmstead Lock 53 you are against a mighty two- or three-mph current, slowing you down. You never know how long it will take to get through the locks. It could be an hour, it could be twenty hours. The journey is safe enough, it is just the timing and slow pace that’s annoying.

The Ohio River has a mighty current right at the junction of the Mississippi River. It is strong enough you notice your speed drops dramatically the moment you turn upstream on the Ohio. Loopers can misjudge the time and fuel it takes to reach Paducah. You need to know your GPH fuel burn rate.

Boaters are told to time your voyage to Paducah in daylight and watch your fuel levels. This leg of your voyage is the farthest distance between fuel stops – and Paducah is no longer a fuel stop. Their power is out. Paducah is unable to offer fuel due to a power outage.

Entering the Olmstead Lock

We are anxious as we approach the Olmstead Lock as we’ve heard so much about the potential delays. As luck would have it – we do not have to wait! It is raining so we do get drenched. What a good feeling, though, to exit and get the lock behind us.

Overview of the Olmstead Lock and Dam

What does ‘lock and dam’ mean?

Probably should have explained this before. The dams on the Mississippi River create a series of navigational pools. Each dam can be thought of as a step in the river as it descends to the Gulf of Mexico. A lock is used to raise or lower boats to the next pool in the system. A lock is a chamber that may be opened on either end to allow boats to enter or exit.

Near the confluence of the Mississippi, Ohio, Tennessee, and Cumberland Rivers is where more commerce traverses than any other location in the U.S. inland waterways. The Olmstead Lock and Dam is a lock and wicket dam on the Ohio River at river mile 964.4 The project will eliminate Locks Number 52 and 53 – they are well beyond their designed service life. There will be a fourfold increase in efficiency, reducing tow and barge delays.

The project consists of two 110’ x 1200’ locks adjacent to the Illinois bank, and a dam comprised of five tainter gates, 1400’ of boat-operated wickets and a fixed weir. The estimated US$3 billion program cost is considered one of the nation’s most expensive, making the project one of the largest civil works ever undertaken by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE).

In Kentucky for the Night

We are still traveling with Mark and Mel on Paradise, and we decide to anchor in Bean Branch Creek, in Kentucky. Early night. Tomorrow we are off to Green Turtle Bay!

Paducah, Kentucky

Most Loopers stop in Paducah, Kentucky. From Paducah, you have two routes that reach both Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley. The Cumberland River route is 43 miles, but generally takes less time. The Tennessee River route is half the distance, but can take twice as long due to the heavy traffic at the Kentucky Dam Docks.

Sunshine is good on fuel and Captain Pat decides to make the long run from Bean Branch, past Paducah, and onto the Cumberland River to Green Turtle Bay.

Mark and Mel Bonds on Paradise join us. Captain Pat is disappointed he will miss the famous Quilt Museum in Paducah. (Joke.) I have heard it is a Looper favorite. My mother would have loved it.

And did I mention – it is cloudy, but the biblical rains have stopped!

Here are more photos from our voyage to Paducah:

Here’s a bit about the rivers:

The Tennessee River originates near Knoxville, Tennessee at Mile 652. It flows south into Alabama, proceeds westbound through Alabama, then turns north to Pickwick, Tennessee, to Paducah, Kentucky at Mile 0 where it flows into the Ohio River.

The Cumberland River originates at Mile 678. It flows through Nashville, Tennessee, then west and northwest to Smithland, Kentucky at Mile 0 where it also flows into the Ohio River.

The Tennessee and Cumberland Rivers are only about two miles apart at Grand Rivers, Kentucky, near Green Turtle Bay Marina. A man-made canal makes it possible to cruise from one to the other between the two rivers just south of Grand Rivers.

The Ohio River is navigable and originates in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Mile 0 ad ends at Cairo, Illinois Mile 981 at which point it flows into the Mississippi River.

Barkley Lake and Dam

The journey to Green Turtle Bay is uneventful. We easily lock through the Barkley Lake and Dam and Sunshine is on her way to dock at Green Turtle Bay!

October 27 and October 28

Depart Hoppie’s, To Kaskaskia Lock Wall

Early morning, we are up and ready to roll. I can’t believe it is warm enough to wear shorts and flipflops.

We are in the back of the pack so the last to pull out from Hoppie’s. Sunshine picks up speed though and soon we are third in line of the boats.

Great Loop Turns to Ghastly Loop

We notice Sundancer, the boat in front of us has stopped. And is circling. What? We hear over the radio from Sundancer:

“This is not a joke. I think there is a body in the water.”

What?

“This is Sunshine. Approaching on your port to confirm.”

As Captain Pat pulls up toward the object, I go out on the bow with my iPhone to get a picture. At first glance, to me it looks like a big black and white buoy, like the ones on our boat. But closer I see the black is a pair of men’s shorts, over a bloated torso.

After some discussion among the boaters someone phones the Coast Guard. I phone Debbie at Hoppie’s – I have her cell number. She calmly tells me that she will contact the Fire Department. Hang tight and she will be back.

Debbie calls back shortly and indicates we can continue our journey. One of the other boats confirm the same message from the Coast Guard.

We did contact the barge in front of us, headed our way. That would be terrible if they were unaware and ran over the corpse.

Up the river we see on the shore the fire truck launching a Zodiac boat to retrieve the corpse.

I phoned Debbie later and asked if she had heard anything from the Fire Department. She had not.  She said unfortunately this happens more often than you would think. People are known to jump to their death, from the two bridges near Hoppie’s.

How sad. We said a prayer for the soul we discovered. May he rest in peace. Perhaps his family now can have some closure.

To the Kaskaskia Lock Wall

The rest of our ride to Kaskaskia is uneventful. Thank goodness.
We arrive at the wall around 2 p.m. Five or six Looper boats are already there, tied up. They instruct us to go behind Coconuts, a Krogen Express 49, Hull #2 (our dream boat) owned by Billy and Sara. Billy and another boater help us tie up.

More boats approach the wall for tie up. One huge boat is being delivered to Naples, Florida.

There’s some controversy when a Looper tries to tie up as the third rafter to a boat. They are friends with the two boats they are rafting up to.

The huge boat with the delivery captains had requested to only have two boats raft up as they are leaving early morning and didn’t want to hit a boat. The boat wanting to raft in threes said he had permission from the lockmaster. Who’s on first, who’s on second? Too many commanders.

We did end up rafting in threes. We had to, there were so many boats. The huge boat conceded this is ok, there is plenty of water.

Koop’s Loop ties up to Sunshine, and Squier About ties up to Koop’s Loop.

By 4 p.m. there are around 18 boats at the wall! It’s fun to meet new boaters and reconvene with some we haven’t seen in a while.  Turns out to be a nice evening.

Two women are getting their steps in, walking up and down the lock wall. Later I have regrets – I should have joined them. We are anchoring out the next two nights, so that is 48 hours not setting feet on land. I missed out.  

Always Coordinate a Wake-Up Time

Five a.m. the iPhone alarm goes off. Ugh. Captain Pat prepares Sunshine for our journey. He wants to depart 6:45 a.m. just before light. We have eggs, bacon, English muffin for breakfast.

Captain Pat begins pacing around 6:15 a.m. The two boats rafted beside us do not appear to be awake. We don’t see any lights. Finally Pat knocks on the door of Koop’s Loop. No answer. He does get a response on the next boat, Squier About. He’s just pulling his pants on.

The six boats in front of us have departed. Now Pat is really in a hurry.

“My mistake,” Pat says to the other captains. “I should have asked you last night what time you planned to depart.”

“We weren’t planning to leave until 8:00 a.m.”

That won’t work.  Squier About unties their boat from Koop’s Loop and Pat helps them secure a place on the wall. They are then nice enough to help us untie and give us a push off the dock.

Koop’s Loop hurriedly gets ready. The two of us depart around 7:10 a.m. headed to Little Diversion Canal Not bad considering the previous panic.

To Cape Girardeau

The weather is the worst I have ever seen. It’s raining but even worse is the relentless fog that greatly inhibits visibility. Not good when driving a boat.

We are going about 10 knots, trailing Paradise. I keep wiping the condensation off the front windows. Rain is coming in two of our hatches. We place bowls to catch the water. What a mess! I’m praying for the rain to stop and the fog to lift!

Captain Pat keeps in contact with Mark on Paradise. Mark is driving from his fly bridge. He’s soaked and cold but he has better visibility than Sunshine. Barges and tows keep coming and we have to radio in permission to pass.

Lead or Follow?

I am so glad we are following another boat. It’s comforting to look out and see his wake. We can barely keep the boat visible. Captain Pat speeds up to catch up. He and Mark decide to reduce speed to 9 knots.

Then I hear Captain Pat say to Mark:

“Hey, you’ve been leading a long time. If you are tired, I can gladly pass you and take over leading for a while.”

What?!?

“I am beyond tired. That would be great.”

“Ok. I will pass you on your port and take over.”

“Roger that.”

So now we are the lead boat. I am definitely more a follower than a leader. But Captain Pat is a leader. And he is always willing to lend a helping hand.

The rain subsides and we put our bowls back in the kitchen. After two hours the fog lifts and you can see the shore. The windows are still cloudy with condensation. Will have to order some anti-fogging spray from Amazon to be delivered to Green Turtle Bay! Put it on the list.

Arriving Cape Girardeau

Originally, we planned to go to the Little Diversion Canal and anchor there. Mark on Paradise confers with Captain Pat, and they decide a better option is anchoring in Cape Girardeau. So we did.

The rain subsides, just long enough for Captain Pat to get the boat secured. Mark and Mel are also tucked safely away on their boat.

Soon thereafter we are joined by other Loopers – Respite, Summer Fling, Koop’s Loop, and Blue Horizon. There is also the sailboat, Sanctuary, that has been following us.

Had we known the windy weather that was ahead – we would have realized this isn’t the best anchorage. It rains and rains – like being on Noah’s Ark. Poor Captain Pat does not get any sleep – the anchor alarm keeps going off as the anchor is dragging. Captain Pat keeps increasing the area on the app so the alarm will subside.

At our locks briefing at Heritage Harbor, Jeremy the Harbor Master gave us this rule: “For every inch of rain, delay your trip on the river by one day.” Well – I don’t think we are doing that!

I sure hope it doesn’t rain like this tomorrow when we travel 60 miles to Olmstead Lock – to anchor again.

We will have spent forty-eight hours plus on the boat before our feet hit the ground in Green Turtle Bay, Kentucky – if all goes as planned.

Wednesday, October 25 and Thursday, October 26

For this leg of our journey, the big destination is Green Turtle Bay in KENTUCKY! The Admiral’s beloved home state. We soon find out the journey is not an easy one!

Those Darn Batteries

We leave Alton headed for the famous fuel stop Hoppie’s Marina, located in Kimmswick. For most Loopers this is a mandatory fuel stop. There isn’t another place to get fuel until Paducah, Kentucky – 208 miles away. And guess what? This year, the fuel docks are not operating in Paducah! This poses a huge inconvenience for some Loopers.

Getting a reservation at Hoppie’s is a challenge. We hear of Loopers waiting at a marina for four days before securing a slip at Hoppie’s. We have planned ahead – for once! – and have a slip for two nights.

But that morning had other plans for us. And it wasn’t a stop at Hoppie’s.

Right after we leave Grafton’s, Captain Pat notices the battery power was plummeting. Unbeknownst to me, the batteries had been giving him problems since we left Logsdon. Hence his mood plummeting.

Captain Pat panics. He does not want to drain the house batteries, causing them to be replaced. These crazy batteries are supposed to charge three ways – by solar, hooked up to shore power, or by the engine as the boat is running. None of that seems to be happening.

Always An Alternative

I call Alton Marina (a marina on the way to Hoppie’s) and ask if we can please stop and ascertain the situation. The harbor master directs us to their guest dock. We tie up and start researching marine electrical mechanics in the area. We don’t have much luck.

In the meantime Captain Pat strings an electrical hookup cord to the power station on the dock. We later learn this is a no-no – not to be done on the guest dock. Captain Pat of course keeps it hooked up anyway.

I am not having any luck getting an electrical mechanic in the area. Finally, I connect with Bill Morrow, a local mechanic who works on boats in this marina. We are not sure if he is familiar with this type of battery. It’s a long shot.

I call Hoppie’s to cancel our reservation, and assure them we will be there tomorrow. They will hold our spot. And some Looper on the wait list will be very happy.

We pay for a one-night stay in Alton and dock Sunshine in a covered slip. This is new to us, to see covered slips in a marina. It’s most appreciated in the rain!

Just Like Being in a Hurricane

Patrick informs me we will not have any electricity, as this is draining the battery. I ask what will happen to the food in the freezer? How will we charge our phones? Suddenly it’s like being back home in Florida during power outages from a hurricane.  

I take a quick walk around the marina, and when I return, I discover Captain Pat has hooked us up to an alternate electrical cord, giving us power to run our freezer and charge our phones. Ingenuous. However, it is dark in the boat, due to the covered slip. Oh well, you can’t be picky at this point. We have to hope the mechanic coming tomorrow can work some magic.

Brian to the Rescue

This is when the miracle happens. I take a walk to Alton, end up at the McDonald’s for coffee and a McChicken. Walking back over the bridge, I run into Brian and Pam, the couple we had dinner with the evening before.

“Where’s Pat?”

“On the boat. It’s terrible. We don’t have any power. The batteries are not charging.”

“What’s the problem?”

“All I know is that it’s done this before. Pat is concerned because it shows the batteries are not holding a charge, and he is afraid of losing the house batteries.”

“I think he has the same lithium system that I have – from Battleborn?”

“Yes!”

“I’m very familiar with those. I put our electrical system in myself. Let me go to your boat and take a look.”

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Long story short – four hours later, with a conference call with the Battleborn installers, somehow the batteries are now showing 100% charged! Brian reset the system and it’s working fine. Turns out it is the Victron controller that is the problem. It shows the batteries are not charged when they are. We panicked for nothing.

And Brian’s wife, Pam, stopped by our boat with pumpkin pie she bought at the local bakery – so kind of her! They are two special people.

We happily cancel the mechanic scheduled for the morning.

On to Hoppie’s Marina

It’s a miracle but we make it out of Alton with batteries at 100%. Big high fives for us.

It’s drizzling and we have a lock to go through. But with the battery success we don’t even care.

Chain of Rocks

The lock is called “Chain of Rocks” – aptly named.

We enter the lock behind a sailboat – Sanctuary – we’ve been following.

Unfortunately there is a strong current and the sailboat’s captain is sailing solo. He has a devil of a time getting to the lock wall to tie up to the floating ballard. We watch him throw his hands up in the air in despair. He finally succeeds.

St. Louis on our Starboard Side!

Approaching St. Louis we see the famous “Archway to the West.”

My father’s oldest brother and sister – Joe and Florence – had homes in St. Louis, though we never visited. My brothers would go to the St. Louis Cardinals baseball games. I never visited St. Louis – this was my first time near the city.

Finally – Hoppie’s Marina

Approaching Hoppie’s there are several dock hands to help us. We are grateful as there is a wicked current and a tight fit at the end of the dock.

Hoppie’s is nothing luxurious – far the opposite. The marina consists of a long line of barges tied together.  

Debbie’s Briefing

The highlight at Hoppie’s is the 5 p.m. river briefing given by Debbie, the owner. The marina has been in her family for years and she knows the rivers like the back of her hand. She speaks for an hour, answering questions and offering advice as we proceed down the rivers to Green Turtle Bay, Kentucky.

Debbie tells the boaters that before you leave your slip in the morning, put your boat in reverse, to release any logs that may have migrated under your boat. Also, be on the lookout for logs and debris, especially “deadheads” – objects that are partially or entirely submerged in the water, posing hidden dangers to boats. Deadheads include logs, branches, debris, or even discarded items.

Debbie also warns us about the unresponsiveness of the barges and tow boats. They are working and consider the pleasure boats an annoyance. She suggests having the woman on board handle the radio – the barge captains seem to be nicer to a female voice. Their voices are sometimes impossible to hear – listen closely.

Debbie gives instructions on how to anchor your boat, depending on weather and water conditions. Jeremy at Heritage Harbor had already warned us that “for every inch of water rained, delay your trip by one day!” Needless to say we did not heed his advice, and kept plowing along in the torrential rain storms.

More on that adventure in our next posts! Here are photos from this two-day journey:

Tuesday, October 24

Tuesday, October 24 – to Grafton, Illinois

Located near confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers

“Big wheel keep on turnin’

Ooh, Captain Pat on Sunshine keep on burnin’

And we’re rollin’ (rollin’), rollin’ (rollin’), yeah rollin’

Rollin’ on the river (rollin’ on the river)“

That song by Creedence Clearwater Revival keeps playing in my head.

We leave Logsdon in Beardstown for Grafton Marina. It’s early morning and the sunlit shoreline follows us peacefully down the river.

First stop is LaGrange Lock. We are getting used to the locks now. Still in a flotilla formation but with different boats. Boats from Flotillas 11, 12, and 13 are in our flock now.

Once in the lock, we raft up to Acadia who was in our Flotilla 12. From the get-go we have admired this boat – a 42- foot Sabre.

This is the first time we’ve had a lengthy conversation with Acadia’s owners, Lynn and Jim, who live in Manchester, New Hampshire. We learn Jim grew up in Lexington, Massachusetts and knows Julie Couette and her family! Julie and Barry are our good friends from the Lake. Small world! I take a photo of them, text to Julie and Barry, and a reconnection occurs! We all plan to meet on Rattlesnake Island. If we ever end this Loop.  -😊

We exit the lock and continue our journey to Grafton. The countryside is inviting, with its foliage, homes, and even a herd of black cows!

We arrive Grafton, which is listed as a must-see spot for Loopers. The town has a Key West vibe, with restaurants, shops, and a winery within walking distance.

I knew something was on the Captain’s mind. He was just not in a good mood and we couldn’t get in sync. One of those nights. We go to the Oyster Bar, a restaurant steps from our boat at the marina.

In walks fellow Loopers Brian and Pam, owners of ‘Surfrider.’

They ask to join us and we are grateful to have the company. It’s the first time we’ve gotten to spend some time with them. This chance meeting will prove fruitful tomorrow.

Stay tuned for our next blog!

Here are more pics from our journey and stay in Grafton:

Kuchie’s On the Water and Logsdon Tug Service

Sunday, October 22 and Monday, October 23

We leave Henry Harbor and at Fran’s suggestion we head to Kuchie’s On the Water in Creve Coeur, Illinois. This restaurant is famous for creamy thick milkshakes and a Bloody Mary that serves as a meal. They offer free overnight docking if you dine there.

Sunshine pulls into the dock around 3 p.m. We recognize a Looper coming to help us – Frank from Summer Fling, also in our Flotilla #12. He and his wife Mona are dining outside on the patio. He asks us to join them but Captain Pat has boat tasks to do.

We do make it to Kuchie’s around 5 p.m. for dinner. This place is reminiscent of Key West.

The portions are huge – we leave with plenty for tomorrow night’s dinner. The milk shakes live up to their reputation! Just like a New England frappe – it requires a spoon.

The bartender (we are at a booth adjacent to the bar) is talking to her son who is sitting on a barstool. We strike up a conversation. She tells us she hates the cold, loves the sun and sand, and is heading to Florida to live. Already has a job, working at a blood donation center. She’s trying to talk her twenty something son into joining her – he wants nothing of it. Seems like people either love Florida or hate it. We wish her well.

Logsdon Tug Service

The next morning, we follow Frank and Mona on Summer Fling and another boat down to the Logsdon Tug Service, located in Beardstown. Some Loopers are stopping overnight at Mel’s Diner, near Peoria. We decide to add a few more miles to our day and make it to Logsdon Tug Service.

Logsdon is a barge that boats raft up to. We are wondering if there will be enough room at the Tug Service. Captain Pat is in conversation with Jim on Acadia – “if Logsdon is full, where would you go? I hear one of the best comments ever for the Loop:

“There is always an alternative.”

You got that right. We learn some of the boats are anchoring out in lieu of Logsdon Tug. We will all convene tomorrow morning to travel through the next Lock.

I post some photos of Logsdon on Facebook, to which someone responds, “looks like they have cleaned up their barge floor.”  Really?

The stairs are a scary climb. Some Loopers are going to the Mexican restaurant for $1.88 margaritas. Hope they do not have too many. These steps are a challenge when sober. Might be a safety hazard when inebriated.

We raft up to a couple from Killarney, Ontario. Neill and Jody are on a Monk 36 – Antonio. I’m especially enthralled with their pooch, Buddha. Buddha, I’m told, is not too fond of visitors and takes his job as the boat guard dog quite seriously. Buddha goes everywhere with his owner, Neill. So, Buddha will have Mexican tonight too!

The night before, anchored out at Kuchie’s, Captain Pat turned on our new portable propane heater, to take the chill out of the cabin. It worked well. It does not have a regulator though, so Pat slept with one eye open all night and didn’t get much sleep. That is not a good thing.

After cruising all day, Captain Pat is exhausted and needs a well-deserved nap. The Admiral takes a walk into the little town of Beardstown. Abraham Lincoln and eagles have a presence here – two of my favorite things.

Here are some pictures of the great metropolis of Beardstown.

Saturday, October 21

Captain Pat borrows a car at Heritage Marina (thanks to the Harbor Master, Jeremy) to pick up oil he has ordered from a store in Ottawa. It’s only a few minutes from the marina.

We then join about 12 boats who leave Heritage Harbor for Henry Harbor Marina.

We have one lock to go through – Starved Rock Lock & Dam – before reaching Henry Harbor. Starved Rock State Park is a wilderness area on the Illinois River, known for its steep sandstone canyons and waterfalls formed by glacial meltwater. A wooded trail leads to Lover’s Leap Overlook, with views of the river and Starved Rock Dam. Park wildlife includes white-tailed deer, bald eagles and migratory birds.

We make it through the lock without any fanfare.

Next, we venture to Henry Harbor Marina. You never know what to expect at these small town marinas. This river journey reminds me of traveling by boat on the Erie Canal. It’s a slice of Americana you would never otherwise experience. And depending on your comfort expectations – you may not want to experience. -😊 I find it amusing, even somewhat comforting, and I love to get to know the people who own and operate the marinas.

Fran (Mary Francis), her husband, David, and son Jake operate the marina. (Their one daughter is a nurse.) All have full-time jobs. Fran designs cabinetry, David has a plumbing and heating business, Jake is in the marine reserves, married to a police officer and works with computers.

They purchased the marina a few years ago. The marina was going to close. They have been boating here for years. They couldn’t imagine not boating from here. So, why not? They buy the marina to operate as a part-time gig.

Fran says, “at the time, we weren’t aware of the Loopers and the work they require!” During Looper season this marina is busy non-stop as the Loopers make their way down south to Green Turtle Bay. I’m sure the part-time gig is mostly full-time!

We meander over to Fran’s office, which is their boat appropriately named “The Office.” The screened-in deck has a baby swing and a baby’s bottle of milk on the table. Fran explains she keeps her grandchildren a couple of days a week. She does her cabinetry design work on expanded computer screens in the boat. Fran reminds me of my sister-in-law Candy – able to do anything and everything for everybody.

Henry Harbor Marina is a bare bones operation. We are lucky enough to fit in a slip, as the water is low and our draft of four feet will fit.

Most boats are docked along a break wall.

Electrical cords snake through the trees to reach the boats. There’s a campground feel with picnic tables and grills. Some nights they light a fire and serve s’mores to the boaters.

Captain Pat Takes a Swim with the River Dolphins

I so wish I had captured a photo of what I am writing about next. John, our flotilla captain, is on the boat docked in front of us. He too said he should have taken a video.

Captain Pat would not have found this amusing.

When we dock in a marina, Captain Pat hooks up the electric and water to shore power. Then he will clean the boat if conditions permit. My meager boat job is to put the exterior window shades on the windows. These are covers we had custom made for the boat. In addition to keeping the sun out, the solar mesh covers provide privacy as we can see out but people cannot see in.

The wind is wicked. I’m out putting on the exterior window shades. A few Looper guys congregate on the dock in front of us. All of a sudden, the wind really picks up and in a flash the shades start flying. The smallest one flies right into the water. It’s one of those “on no” moments.

Captain Pat is beyond upset. We look for the shade, to no avail. The water is quite murky and he doesn’t want to stir it up with the boat hook. That will make it worse.

His only alternative is to don his swim trunks and scuba mask and go looking for it. The mask is useless, as he can’t see five inches in the murky water.  Luckily the water is only 4 ½ feet deep. The water is cold, but even worse we are worried about the “river dolphins aka Asian carp” that we’ve seen jumping around.

Captain Pat looks and looks. Finally, he sees a rooted plant underneath Jake’s boat docked next to us. Sure enough – there is the window shade caught in the branches of that plant. He can only feel it with his feet. He dives in and pulls it up. It is undamaged, just a little muddy. Captain Pat is covered in mud, and smells like fish!

That was an adventure that we hope never recurs.

But I sure wish I’d taken a photo.

Here are more photos from our visit to Henry Harbor Marina.

Friday, October 20

On to Heritage Harbor Marina

It’s another early morning – ugh! We leave the dock at 7:30 a.m. for our first lock opening – Brandon. It’s dark and the rafted boats have to exit first. So the smaller boats are out but the larger boats have to get in front to lead the pack.

The problem begins when a gigantic barge comes through the bridge, into the channel where the 18 boats are jockeying into position, with nowhere to go. The winds have picked up and we almost hit the wall, pushing us away with the boat hook. Finally, the barge is through and we are on our way.

Three Locks Today

Today we have three locks – Brandon, Dresden, and Marseilles. We have 46 miles of travel. At 8 mph that’s about 9 hours of travel, with an hour at each lock. We also must be prepared for towboat delays – either en route or in the locks.

At the first lock, Brandon, we think we are using the same order as we did at the last lock yesterday. Wrong. The way the front doors of the lock are positioned, the lockmaster wants the smaller boats up front and the larger boats behind filling in.

We end up at the front of the lock, tied up to No Rush, owned by our friends Laureen and Rick. Laureen and Rick purchased No Rush from our friends Mitch and Anne who completed the Loop last year. This boat has seen some great owners!

Laureen is happy I have some coffee to share with her, as she did not have electricity this morning. It’s the little things!

We exit Brandon and go to the wall to wait and let the bigger boats come up to get into position. As we get into our running order, it’s announced that some boats will go faster if they want. We will have to wait for the next lock, Dresden, to open, hanging out in the lake just before the lock or up on the lock wall.

Mea Culpa, Mea Culpa

Captain Pat makes a beeline up the river. Suddenly we hear on the radio a notice to Sunshine that she has made a wake on some of the boats.

Of course, Captain Pat feels terrible. That was completely unintentional. The boat that made the comment tells Pat the protocol is to request a “slow passage” to the boat you are passing, and both boats then slow down to obviate the waking of boats. Pat apologizes and thanks him for the recommendation.

So we learned something new! Some of the boaters later were less condemning and didn’t seem to notice the waking. One boater even jokingly said “Hey, I do the waking on purpose!” The next day on the radio we hear some comical comments about “those boaters from Florida.” Oh well. All in good jest.

Dresden Lock is uneventful. We are getting used to rafting up. It makes the locking much easier. I prefer it.

The Last Lock

Finally, we are down to one last lock – Marseilles. Again, the smaller boats raft up to the larger ones. This takes longer as we are only rafting on the starboard side of the lock. Sunshine brings up the rear and is the last one into the lock. We tie up to Leland Tug. We are five boats across.

The boat on the wall says he doesn’t think his lines will hold. The lines are only ¼ inch in diameter. Sure enough – he is correct. We feel our boat moving, and boats are coming apart. The lockmaster drops another line and we get the boat on the wall secure. That was a close call.

Heritage Harbor Marina

We exit Marseilles and head to Heritage Harbor Marina. This marina is extremely organized. Over the radio the owner confirms each boat’s slip number and instructs them who to follow into the marina. They want to ensure there is ample staff to help people get docked.

We get all checked in and ready to hear the presentation from Jeremy (Harbor Master) at 6:00 p.m. Jeremy’s presentation is legendary. All Loopers look forward to hearing his recommendations to successfully continue down the Illinois, Mississippi and Ohio rivers.

Time to breathe. We survived the first two days of the Illinois River locks!

Heritage Harbor Marina

I’ve never seen such help getting us into our marina slip. We are one of the first ones into the marina. As with many of these small-town marinas, it is a mom-and-pop operation. The husband, wife and son meet us at the slip and tie us up. The son even ties our lines with the fancy knots I still haven’t mastered.

We are docked next to our buddies, Rick and Laureen, on No Rush – neighbors for the night again.

River Briefing by Jeremy Fowler

We are anxious to hear from Jeremy Fowler, resident expert of traveling the river systems to Green Turtle Bay Marina.

We’ve heard from other Loopers not to miss his 1 ½ hour presentation. Take a pen and paper, or your iPad.

Jeremy doesn’t disappoint. He speaks non-stop, no notes, to his PowerPoint presentation, peppered with amusing anecdotes. He provides landmarks, marinas, anchorages, and has the latest information on water levels, lock openings, how to handle the barges, etc.

We sit across from Mel and Mark Bonds, who are from Mesa, Arizona, living aboard their boat Paradise. Mel says afterward “my head is spinning!” I agree. Jeremy’s knowledge and expertise is invaluable.

Jeremy impresses me more when I discover he has built a “Quack House” -😊 for the ducks. I’ve never seen this! The next morning I venture over to visit the ducks at their home.

We are ready for a good night’s sleep. On to Henry’s tomorrow morning.

Here are more photos from our second day on the locks:

Officially River Rats

Finally – October 18, we can enter the Illinois River system and go through the locks, to make our way to the Ohio River and to Kentucky Lake. We are now officially River Rats, joining the Asian carps who are affectionately called “river dolphins.” More on their fate later.

As mentioned before, the Loopers are grouped into “flotillas” of 12 to 16 boats. Sunshine was originally in Flotilla 16, which meant she would exit the locks on October 16. October 1 was the first day of the locks opening, so Flotilla 1 was scheduled for that day. After October 1 a flotilla would launch every day until all Looper boats are through the locks.

As luck would have it, the lock departure date for all flotillas was pushed out twice. The first delay of four days was because the commercial barges needed to go through, and the engineers wanted to ensure the locks were working properly. The second delay of two days was because of weather. Who could have predicted these delays?

We did get a break though. We were able to move Sunshine from Flotilla 16 to Flotilla 12, pushing our date up four days. Flotilla 12 left Hammond for the Illinois River and the locks early morning Thursday, October 18.

En Route to Joliet – First Day through the Locks

We have 18 boats in our Flotilla. Our Flotilla Leader, John Parks, communicates to the group via a Zoom meeting the Wednesday night before our departure. We are impressed by his organization. He sends everyone a PowerPoint presentation with instructions complete with diagrams. Someone expressed “it’s like a military operation!”

The first day we have 48 miles of travel with two locks – O’Brien and Lockport. At 8 mph, that’s about 8.5 hours of travel, with an hour at each lock.

No More Leisurely Mornings

We leave Hammond at 7 a.m. It’s still dark.

The early morning departures to make the lock openings are brutal for us. While in Chicago we grew accustomed to sleeping in, enjoying leisurely mornings of no commitments. Those days are over.

Above is our “running order.” You’ll notice the smaller boats in the back. We get lined up – kind of – in the channel just after Hammond Marina. We stay together via the radio. Once we approach the lock, John our Leader communicates with the Lockmaster to determine what order we will go into the lock. See below the various options. 

In the first lock, it is difficult for Captain Pat to get close to the wall, so we can loop our line around one of the hanging poles to secure our boat to the wall. He finally makes it and we manage to get secured to the wall.

One Down, One to Go

We survived the first lock. Now on to the second lock – Lockport. We try to stay together in our “running order” enroute to the next lock. It’s difficult as the boats go at different speeds. Captain Pat gets frustrated and is not able to slow down to the other boats’ speed. Sunshine does not run her rpms efficiently at lower speeds.

Lots of Radio Chatter

While cruising and the Admiral is driving the boat, the Captain can usually take a nap or read, rest. That’s not the case while driving between the locks. The radio is going constantly, with someone from the group of 18 giving a notice about a barge ahead or logs and debris on port or starboard side, or a bald eagle in the trees. The nice thing about being in the back of the pack, you get plenty of notice of obstructions in the river.

You get to know the boats from the repetition of the boat names and the voices of the captains. There’s a Texan accent on Unsuscribed (three men from Texas aboard) and Miracle has a vigilant female Captain who keeps others abreast of what’s happening in the waters. We even have a two-star General in our flotilla – their boat is aptly named General Fun!

It’s usually a male voice on the radio so it’s a pleasant change to hear a female one. Our Flotilla Leader, John Parks, is often on the radio giving orders. His wife Carmen will sometimes take the lead on the radio.

The Asian Carp

One thing that I’ve had nightmares about is the presence of the Asian Carp on the Illinois River. The term “Asian carp” refers to two species of invasive fish introduced from Asia. The “bighead” carp and the silver carp. These carp are native to China. The carp can be 150 pounds and are known to jump into boats, even knocking boaters into the water!

If a carp jumps into Sunshine – the Admiral will have a heart attack and the Captain will be boating solo. Illinois boaters refer to the carp as “river dolphins” because they jump out of the water like dolphins.

Story of the Asian Carp

They were originally imported into the southern United States in the 1970s to provide an inexpensive, fast-growing addition to fresh fish markets. They also served to help keep aquaculture facilities clean. By 1980 the carp were found in natural waters in the Mississippi River Basin. As they moved north through the Basin, they have overwhelmed the Mississippi and Illinois River systems where Asian carp now make up more than 95% of the biomass in some areas.

An adult Asian carp can eat up to 40% of its body weight every day. They are a threat to endangered species and to the water ecosystem. Silver carp can now be found in 12 states. Bighead and silver carp are currently in the Illinois River, which is connected to the Great Lakes on the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal.

The leading edge of Asian carp are thought to be ten miles downriver of the Brandon Road lock. Near the lock is an electrical barrier located along the river. The barrier doesn’t electrocute the fish but repels them when they encounter the strong electrical field. Due to these efforts, the carp population in the Illinois River has dropped by 68%.

The Lock at Lockport

As we approach the lock the lockmaster announces there are fewer “pins” on the walls. These are where a boat can attach itself on the wall. The larger boats go into the lock, with the smaller boats rafting up. As a boat enters the lock, it will radio a boat and ask permission to raft aside it.

We are rafted up with Leland Tug on our port and Surf Rider on our starboard. Poor Surf Rider is pounding into the wall. Captain Pat goes over to Surf Rider to help its captain, Brian, keep the boat off the wall as much as possible.

I look at the back of the boat and realize the water from the closed gate is splashing into the boat. That’s how close we are to the back wall.

I shut our door for no more leakage. Finally, the lock doors open and we can one by one exit the lock. You can imagine how long it takes 18 boats to exit the lock.

Can We Go a Little Faster?

Now we are journeying to Joliet to tie up along the city wall, at no charge. Lucky Chicklet texts the group, asking if we can pick up the pace. Stryker answers with an affirmative. Captain Pat jumps all over this! Ditto, he says. He is ready to get this show on the road. Let’s go.

We arrive Joliet around 4:30 and are exhausted. We remember to turn our boat upstream at the wall. The smaller boats raft up to the larger ones. We end up by Lucky Chicklet, a 42-foot Sabre. The owners are from Manchester, New Hampshire. The boat behind them is Paradise – and it is from Mesa, Arizona. Small world.

Here are more photos from our stay in Hammond and our first day on the locks:

Monday, October 16

We finally get the ok to begin our journey through the Illinois River system and locks. Monday, October 16, is our last day in Chicago. We have stayed in DuSable Harbor Marina five weeks! Thank you, Polly and Bruce. Your generosity is overwhelming. We so enjoyed this city. Captain Pat is getting itchy though to get moving and on our way.

Meeting Junira and Brian

One of our first nights in Chicago we are walking along the harbor, in front of the Columbia Yacht Club, and I notice the Chicago flag flying above next to the Illinois flag.

I comment to Captain Pat:

“I wonder why there are four stars on the Chicago flag?”

A young couple is walking in front of us. The man turns around.

“The four stars represent the four great events influencing Chicago.”

“Really?” I replied.

“Yes. The first is for Fort Dearborn, the second for the Great Chicago Fire, and the third and fourth for the two world fairs that took place in Chicago.”    

I thank him, and we start a conversation about Chicago. Turns out he and his wife are attorneys in Chicago and attended schools in Chicago – Loyola and John Marshall Law University. They live in a high rise not far from the marina and frequently walk or run the harbor walkway.

Turns out Brian loves all things Chicago. We tell him we are going to the White Sox game and he’s all excited. We exchange contact information and promise to get together for a visit to our boat and dinner somewhere.

Time goes by, we are busy, I make a visit home. One night Captain Pat and I are walking the Chicago Riverwalk and who do we run into – Brian and Junira, his lovely wife! I recognize them immediately – you can’t miss Junira’s vibrant smile.

Our Final Evening in Chicago

We once again reiterate our desire to get together. We finally do – our last evening in Chicago! We meet for dinner at The Gage, a wonderful restaurant on Michigan Avenue across from Millenium Park.

We discover over dinner that they’ve only been married three months! The wedding was in Cartegena, Colombia, Junira’s hometown. The wedding photos are stunning. Brian’s father is Cuban, his mother Irish. He says his parents are often compared to Lucille Ball and Ricky Ricardo.

Last Walk Back to the Marina

After dinner Brian takes us on a different new route home. We would have never discovered this way to the marina. We pass the Fox News building, other landmarks, and office buildings with spacious lobbies. We discover Chicago’s pedestrian tunnel that allows workers to get to their offices unscathed by the weather. What a clever idea! We have determined that Chicago is a well-designed city and easy to maneuver through.

We give them a tour of our boat – that doesn’t take long. They are so curious about our adventure.

We are so impressed by this young couple – hard working, ambitious, with many adventures awaiting them. We bid them farewell and wish them the very best. We sure hope our paths meet again!

Here are more pics from our final day in Chicago.

One thing for sure – Captain Pat and the Admiral have gotten their steps in during our Chicago visit. We walk everywhere – to the grocery, restaurants, Target, post office, church, coffee shop – everywhere.

Captain Pat and the Admiral have walked the Chicago Riverwalk 20 times or more. This path is just a few minutes from our boat. It features an underground pedestrian tunnel with murals of Chicago history of Chicago on either side.

Artist Ellen Lanyon’s design for a series of murals won the Chicago Public Art Program’s competition for the tunnel’s interior decoration. Lanyon’s twenty-eight painted-tile panels illustrate the history of the Chicago River, serving as a metaphor for the collective growth and improvement of the city.

The series is divided into sixteen narrative scenes and twelve detail panels. The story begins with Père Jacques Marquette and Louis Jolliet’s 1673 arrival at the portage of Lake Michigan. Along the top edge of this panel, a bundle of onions alludes to the wild variety (Chicagou) that grew in abundance along the river, from which the city takes its name.

Other noteworthy events include: the building of Jean Baptiste Point du Sable’s cabin, the first house on the river; the Great Chicago Fire of 1871; the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition; and the historic reversal of the river in 1900. Reversing the flow of the Chicago River was an incredible engineering feat. This was to provide suitable drinking water for Chicago citizens. Through the installation of a series of canal locks, the water was directed to empty into the Mississippi River instead of Lake Michigan.

No other feature better illustrates the character of Chicago than the waterway that runs through the city.

Designer Lanyon extended the story of the murals up to the present day. The final panels illustrate the city’s current efforts to restore the river and reinvigorate its edges as a place of leisure and entertainment.

Strolling along the picturesque Riverwalk, it’s hard to imagine that it was once a shipping channel — and a smelly one at that. After a lot of effort and dedication, though, it has become one of Chicago’s star attractions.

Today, this mile-long pedestrian Riverwalk runs along the south bank of the river as it winds through the downtown district. It offers visitors a lush green space where they can stroll and take in the sights of the city. River cruises are available that offer visitors historical insight about the city’s most-celebrated landmarks.

There’s so much more to do at the Chicago Riverwalk than simply stroll along a picturesque river. The Riverwalk is a lifestyle — a uniquely Chicago one, with a little of something for everyone. Eat, drink, play, and explore with stunning outdoor bars and restaurants, museums, pier fishing, boat trips, kayaking, public art, bird-watching, and a harmonious blend of sublime nature and shiny city.

Recreational Experiences on the Riverwalk

When the Riverwalk underwent major expansion and development, it was decided to tax the Riverwalk recreational vendors to pay back state and federal loans. For the next 30 years a percentage of the vendor profits is allocated toward the payment of these loans.

You can read about the history and development of the Chicago Riverfront here:

https://www.chicago.gov/city/en/sites/chicagoriverwalk/home/site-history.html

The Riverwalk is all about recreational experiences. There are urban kayak tours and rentals. Book an outing with Wendella Sightseeing or take an Architecture Boat Tour. We did the Architecture Tour and found it fascinating to learn about the history of Chicago through its architecture.

Other boat experiences include Chicago Cycle Boats, eco-conscious Chicago Electric Boat Company, Island Party Hut tiki boats, and water taxis.

Visit The Jetty to learn about the river’s system of canals and fascinating feats of engineering. Or head to the fishing pier and cast a line (make sure you get your fishing license first.) Bird watchers should keep an eye out for mallards, ring-billed and herring gulls, rock pigeons, American robins, European starlings, and Peregrine falcons that swoop among the skyscrapers. You can even schedule a bird walk with a tour guide.

Art Shows

Public art is on show throughout the pedestrian trail. Art on the Mart is the Riverwalk’s most famous work. This is the largest video-projection art installation in the world, taking up approximately 2.5 acres of the MART’s river-facing facade. See curated video art Wednesdays through Sundays, from March through December, 7:15 — 9:15 p.m.

One evening we enjoyed gelatos while sitting on this terraced wall, watching the Art on the Mart. It reminded me of the terraced steps we sat on in Rome.

Many times we ventured up the stairs to Michigan Avenue – also known as the “Magnificient Mile.”

Here’s a map of the Chicago Riverwalk:

Here are more photos of our ventures on the Chicago Riverwalk: