Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure

Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure

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Follow along our Great Loop journey!

  • The Wharf Marina – Orange Beach, Alabama

    November 30, 2023

    November 18 and 19, 2023

    Saturday, November 18, 2023

    Can I Catch You a Fish?

    I walk out the boat door this morning and there is a fisherman in a camouflage boat. Right behind our boat!

    This is a first. Pretty sure he is not supposed to be fishing near the marina slips.

    I say “Hello!”

    He replies, “Oh hi. The fishing is really good in here. Better than out there in the wind.”

    Who knew.

    He proceeds to tell me he could catch a fish right here and give to me. He has a fish finder. Would I like that?

    I tell him that’s ok, I’m good, and go back into the boat.

    I’m waiting for Captain Pat to return to the boat to see his reaction. This should be interesting. -😊

    Thankfully the guy takes off soon after that.

    Welcome to Alabama!

    Ahhhhh – Relaxation At Last

    This trip has taught me to appreciate the luxuries I have taken for granted. One of them is a manicure and pedicure. I’ve had only one since we left Boca Raton in late May – in Charlevoix, Michigan. There was a nice salon in Chicago, but I was never wearing sandals so didn’t consider it.

    I can’t explain how relaxing and serene this salon experience is. I love the music that’s playing and inquire as to what it is. I now have a new Spotify playlist -acoustic pilates. Nouveau artists, softer tunes, and remixes of familiar songs. Highly recommend it!

    My new toes have a quicker step. I’m thinking “I should be more present with this adventure.” Not complain, just enjoy the ride. A friend recently commented that it is hard to be with someone 24/7 – no matter how much you like them. You are bound to wear on each other’s nerves.

    As they say, with this kind of adventure, you are either watching the show, or you are the show. Sometimes being the show has its own fear factors and frustrations.

    Walk Around the Wharf

    The Captain and I walk down the main street of the Wharf to visit the shops.

    I’m surprised he doesn’t want the oysters on display at Murder Point Oysters. He doesn’t like the price.

    For lunch we settle for pizza but it doesn’t come close to Robert’s Pizza in Chicago. We are spoiled.

    You can board this choo choo train for a ride around the Wharf
    You can take a selfie here.

    There’s an ice rink – in Florida?! – and a “selfie museum” – talk about a sign of the times. Right beside the Oasis Church!

    Of course the Kentucky Mist Distillery catches my eye.

    I tell the owner about my nephews Seth and Justin, the “bourbon boys” of Lexington.

    Funny story. Our Looper friends Tracy and George hosted a bourbon tasting get together when they were in Green Turtle Bay, Kentucky. Everyone brought a bottle of bourbon, and they held a secret tasting to vote on the best one. Then everyone told the history and story behind the bourbon they brought. The Captain and I weren’t able to attend but they told us about it.

    Afterwards we told our Canadian friends about Basil Hayden bourbon and how he is our ancestor. Tracy was sorry to inform me that the Basil Hayden bourbon came in last for taste preference at their gathering!

    But then again, what do Canadians know about bourbon? Just kidding.

    Tracy and George Visit

    Many Loopers show up at the Wharf. We welcome Beachside and Sea No Evil, although our paths never cross.

    We are always happy to visit with Tracy and George. We see them as soon as they dock their boat Done Saving at the Wharf. Tracy and I take off for a walk and chat, and Captain Pat and George stay on Done Saving to talk all about boats.

    The four of us have dinner at Mile Marker 58. After dinner we walk the Wharf again. It’s so festive and pretty, all lit up for the holidays. And we stop for ice cream at Kilwin’s!

    Laser light show light up the palm trees.

    Sunday, November 19

    Depart for Destin, Florida

    Sunday morning we pack up and head to Destin Beach, Florida. I say good by to my friend Henry the Blue Heron, who has greeted us every day!

    Good bye, The Wharf at Orange Beach!
  • To Twelvemile Island, Mobile Bay, and Gulf Shores

    November 29, 2023

    Thursday, November 16, and Friday, November 17, 2023

    An Early Morning

    At 3:45 a.m., Captain Pat lumbers out of bed. This isn’t unusual. But what happens next is.

    He often gets up early morning, goes to the bathroom, then up to the couch in the salon to read a bit and eventually fall back to sleep.

    I hear frantic rumbling of steps, and he’s back in the bedroom putting his clothes on.

    “The boats are moving!”

    “What boats?”

    “OUR boats! Or – the boats in the other rafting. They are about to hit us!”

    Looking out our boat door, sure enough, the three boats anchored in front of our three are now just outside of our boat! Dangerously.

    Pat tries to send a text to Tom on Beachside. No cell service.

    The Captain does the next best thing – blares his boat horn. That gets Tom up. And everyone else.

    Captain Pat and Tom go to the stern of Tom’s boat to check the anchor hold. Todd from our third boat Sea No Evil also climbs aboard Beachside.

    Lights flip on from the three boats behind us – Into the Mystic, Sundancer, and Riva. We are about to hit these boats, as we have moved. Captain Pat grabs our spotlight to get a better look at the anchor.

    I’m not too worried. The three amigos should be able to figure something out.

    I think of the time we were with Tom and Tracy on their boat in Lake Boca. Somehow, we drifted and ran over the bow line, which got tangled in the props, requiring a fellow boater to dive in to untangle it. Tom’s Dad was aboard and said “I wonder what Navy these guys are from. Hope it’s not the U.S.”

    Kidding aside – this kind of thing happens. Beachside pulls up her anchor, repositions the three boats (still all tied up together) and soon we are comfortably distanced from the other three. Once safe, everyone returns to their boats and beds. By now it is past 4:30 a.m.

    Anchoring Rule No. 1

    Captain Pat awakens the Admiral at 6:15. I did not want to get up! But I did and we left the anchorage at 7:00 a.m.

    Tom from Beachside helps us untie, and with a sigh admits we broke anchoring rule number one.

    When anchoring out, all boats must follow the same pattern. If the first boat to an anchorage throws a stern line, the other boats do the same. That way the boats will swing in the same direction. Wind has to be considered as does tidal waters.

    Yesterday evening, Into the Mystic threw out a stern anchor. Beachside did not. The captains talked about setting a stern anchor (as we did the night before) but decided against it. Lesson learned.

    Thursday, November 16 – Today’s Journey

    Today’s journey is without locks. Captain Pat has his chart set to reach Twelvemile Island today, and anchor there for the night. The other boats are considering different anchorages – all before Twelvemile Island.

    We encounter the first of many tugs and notice ominous danger signs. From New Orleans, this tug is carrying benzine. Lots of benzine.

    Next is a tug from Florida Marine – Marshall B. Barnes.

    The next tug catches our eye as it is from Paducah, Kentucky and names ‘McKenzie’ – our granddaughter’s name!

    Look close and you will see the name “McKenzie!”

    A boat comes on the radio, asking for a pass on our starboard. Turns out it is a Looper boat named Soulmate. Captain Pat confirms this on Nebo.

    As the boat passes, I snap a photo of it.

    Looper boat named “Soulmate”

    I do this often so I can text a picture of the boat to their  owners. Captain Pat asks them for their telephone number to do this.

    They in turn reciprocate – and take a photo of Sunshine! How nice of them.

    Sunshine on the Mobile River

    Soon we reach a bridge in the Mobile River.

    And around the corner is our anchorage – Twelvemile Island.

    Captain Pat setting the anchor at Twelvemile Island

    The early evening sunrays give us their blessing.

    The sun sets and soon we drift off to sleep.

    November 17 – Perfect Cruising Day – to Mobile Bay

    We awaken to a beautiful sunrise.

    We pass Melissa and Scott on their Albin 27, Lyra. They are going our way.

    We immediately notice a difference in the waters as we enter Mobile Bay.

    The Captain snaps a pic of the Admiral

    The weather today allows t-shirts, shorts and flip-flops -a welcome change. We know we are near Florida, as we see dolphins and pelicans. The dolphins are fast rascals and I can’t get a photo.

    Melissa and Scott on Lyra are following Sunshine, and Captain Pat is eager to guide them through the bay.

    We are amazed at the number and size of the logs and debris in the river.

    Captain Pat alerts Lyra on the radio each time he encounters them.

    ‘Deadheads’ are particularly dangerous for boats.
    They are pieces of wood that stick straight up in the water. If hit they can really damage your boat.

    As we pass under the bridge and into the bay we immediately notice the many cargo ships.

    I’m not that familiar with Mobile, Alabama. I expected industry but am surprised at the tall buildings on the skyline and the number of ships and cargo containers. It reminds me of Miami.

    The US Coast Guard makes an appearance in its boat. They seem to be fishing for something in the water.

    As we pass the city docks, we see another Looper, Tsali on Compass Rose. Tsali waves to us as we pass.

    Mobile Waterfront
    The Convention Center, from the water, resembles a boat.

    Mobile played a major role as a port and shipbuilding and repair center during World Wars I and II. It remains a center for shipping and shipbuilding.

    This is the US Naval Hospital Ship – named “Comfort.”

    See the end of this blog for facts on Mobile Bay and on the city of Mobile.

    LuLu’s Homeport Marina and Restaurant

    For many Loopers, their first stop on the Gulf Intercoastal Waterway is Lulu’s, an iconic Alabama restaurant famous because the owner is Jimmy Buffet’s sister.

    We know many Loopers who plan to stay at Lulu’s marina. We bypass Lulu’s and head directly to the Wharf Marina in Orange Beach, Alabama (also known as Gulf Shores.)

    Sunshine docked at The Wharf

    The Wharf Marina

    We get Sunshine settled into her slip,and do the usual cleanup. Captain Pat on the exterior, the Admiral the interior. For once Captain Pat decides to go up and check us in.

    He’s a bit frustrated as the office isn’t easy to find. It gets worse when he discovers there is a 3 1/2 percentage charge for using a credit card, and not paying cash.

    This is the first time a marina asks for boat insurance documentation, our registration, AGLCA proof of membership, etc. Granted they had emailed us requesting this information, followed by a four-page rules and registration guide! We had not completed any of this – my mistake.

    The good news is the facility is modern, clean, and has an upscale resort feel to it. That we are not accustomed to!

    I take a quick walk to the downtown area, just steps from our boat. The main street is decorated for the Holidays.

    I make a reservation at the nail salon for a manicure/pedicure for tomorrow morning.

    And I pass the Mexican place Doug and Theresa Roberts insist we go to – for their happy hour margaritas!

    Meet Henry the Blue Heron, at the end of the dock.He greets us many times during our stay at the Wharf!

    I think we will enjoy this much needed respite from so many anchorages. We are staying here three days. Yahoo!

    It is so festive at the Wharf!
    There is a dolphin tour boat at the end of our dock.
    Watching the sunset
    Evening lights at the Wharf

    About Mobile Bay

    Mobile Bay is a shallow inlet of the Gulf of Mexico. Its mouth is formed on the east by the Fort Morgan peninsula and on the west by Dauphin Island. The Mobile River and Tensaw River empty into the northern end of the bay making it an estuary. Several smaller rivers also empty into the bay: Dog River, Deer River, Fowl River, and Fish River. Mobile Bay is the fourth largest estuary in the United States with a discharge of 62,000 cubic feet of water per second.

    Annually and often several times during the summer months, the fish and crustaceans will swarm the shallow coastline and shore of the bay. This event, appropriately named a jubilee, draws a large crowd because of the abundance of fresh, easily caught seafood.

    About Mobile, Alabama

    Mobile is a port city. The WWII-era USS Alabama battleship is anchored in Battleship Memorial Park. Mobile played a major role as a port and shipbuilding and repair center during World Wars I and II. It remains a center for shipping and shipbuilding.

    Natural gas from the gulf is a major part of its economy. Oil is also important. Major manufacturers include paper products, chemicals, apparel, aircraft parts, and computer hardware and software.

    Africatown is a community in Mobile that was established by survivors of the last forced voyage of enslaved Africans to the United States. It is the only American community ever created by West Africans who had personally survived the Middle Passage

    Floats, costumes and photos at the Mobile Carnival Museum illuminate the city’s centuries-old Mardi Gras tradition. The city is considered the birthplace of Mardi Gras.

    The 1850 Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception features intricate German stained glass. International fine and decorative art is displayed at the Mobile Museum of Art.

    Mobile has a population of 187,041 at the 2020 census. It is the second most populous city in Alabama, after Huntsville.

  • Two More Locks – Demopolis and Coffeeville

    November 27, 2023

    November 14 – Anchoring in Bashi Creek

    Only two more locks – Demopolis and Coffeeville – and we will cross Mobile Bay and arrive at our next marina – the Wharf in Orange Beach, in Gulf Shores, Alabama.

    However that is three nights away, all on the anchor. A long time to be on the boat and not on land.

    We leave early morning from Kingfisher Marina. The Admiral has the flashlight out on the bow to give the Captain some much needed light.

    Flotilla leaving Kingfisher Marina – about 12 boats again.

    The Demopolis Lock is just past the Kingfisher Marina.

    Once again Todd on Sea No Evil is in the lead, guiding us through, with Tom on Beachside second in command.

    The Ranger tug “Hoppy Trails” is behind us.
    Lyra is rafted to Into the Mystic.

    The journey to our anchorage is status quo – nothing crazy. Guess we are finally getting used to the locks and the rivers. Now that there is only one lock left!

    We are in Coffeeville Lake.
    Fall foliage is fading.

    Some of our flotilla are anchoring in other spots. There are six boats anchoring in Bashi Creek. Beachside asks Sunshine to raft up to them on their starboard side. Sea No Evil will anchor on their port.

    Three other boats also raft up – Riva in the center, with Into the Mystic and Sundancer on either side.

    Tom and Todd hop into Todd’s dinghy to take Sunshine’s stern anchor out. Soon the boats are all secure.

    A Game of Cards

    Diane and Tom invites us to their boat for dinner. Bring hamburgers for the grill and a side dish. After dinner we will play a game of cards. Oh my – Captain Pat and the Admiral are not card players. Diane reminds me of this fact the following day in a text. -😊

    Dinner and a game of cards with Diane and Tom, Maria and Todd.

    Beachside is a spacious, comfortable boat, decorated to fit its name. The night turns out to be so fun. The game is Phase 10, a rummy-type card game where players compete with each other to see who can complete ten varied phases first.

    We played the simplified version. Good thing – the Captain just couldn’t get a lucky hand to even get on the board, until the very end. The Admiral, on the other hand, had beginner’s luck. She came in second place – losing to Tom by only one card – five points.

    One thing for sure – a night anchored out goes so much faster with the company of fun people.

    Our stay at Bashi Creek was a memorable one.

    November 15 – Journey to Upper Sunflower East Anchorage

    The next morning it’s the same drill. Leave at sun up. Everyone is excited. We will go through the last lock today – Coffeeville.

    In Coffeeville Lake we see more fall foliage.

    Approaching Bobby’s Fish Camp

    We pass the famous Bobby’s Fish Camp. This is written up in all the Looper guidebooks as an iconic stop, one not to miss.

    Look close – you can see the small sign.

    There used to be a restaurant here. Now there is just a dock, no power or water or services. If you blink you would miss it. They do offer fuel. We do not stop. We see no need to.

    As we approach the Coffeeville Lock we see a bright pink barge. It has the usual “Corp of Engineers – U.S. Army” on the side. The color just looks off!

    We see the green light and enter the lock.

    There are enough bollards that it isn’t necessary to raft up. Sunshine grabs a bollard and is soon secured to the lock wall.

    Entering Coffeeville Lock and Dam.

    I am excited yet don’t want to jinx our luck. Up to this point we have not had any issues on the locks – in spite of all my senseless worrying.

    Sunshine is behind Beachside in this final lock.
    Riva is behind us in this lock.

    The lock gate closes and water comes pouring in.

    The lock gate opens, the boats parade out, and there are shouts of joy. We made it through the last river locks!

    There’s Sunshine making her way out of the locks.

    Back on the Tombigbee River we are on high alert for logs and debris. We don’t see many. We do see what appears to be a dead alligator on the riverbanks.

    Upper Sunflower East Anchorage

    Soon we reach our anchorage for this evening – Sunflower East. As we did last night, Riva, Sundancer, and Into the Mystic raft up together. Sunshine, Beachside, and Sea No Evil do the same. This time Sunshine goes in first to Beachside’s starboard side. Sea No Evil rafts to his port side.

    Sea No Evil approaching Beachside to raft up.
    Sunshine, Beachside and Sea No Evil

    Even though Into the Mystic has thrown a stern anchor from their raft, the boys on Beachside’s raft decide it is not necessary. Their anchor is holding pretty good and the winds should be calm tonight.

    Hold that thought for tomorrow’s post.

    Champagne – Time to Celebrate

    Maria and Todd on Sea No Evil invites Sunshine and Beachside over to their boat for champagne and appetizers to celebrate our making it through all the locks. Sea No Evil is a comfortable Carver with lots of room. Captain Pat could get used to their reclining leather seating.

    Captain Pat relaxing and celebrating on Maria and Todd’s boat – Sea No Evil.

    It’s another great evening with our Looper friends. We are blessed indeed. As we bask in the comfort of their company we almost forget about those crazy rivers and locks.

    But there is an early morning ahead.

  • To Kingfisher Marina – Demopolis, Alabama

    November 25, 2023

    November 11 – 13

    The Admiral at Kingfisher Marina in Demopolis, Alabama, standing by Mrs. Alabama.

    We awaken to drizzling rain and cold. Melanie texts me “any normal person would be sleeping in.” Not us. We are up and out by 7 a.m.

    We pass the sailboat that went through the lock with us last night. He simply beached his boat on the shore, tied it to a tree, and waited out the storm.

    That’s one way to anchor for the evening.

    As we travel the river we encounter sizable barges with towboats, white picturesque cliffs and old bridges.

    One of many tugboats encountered.
    The barges keep getting bigger and bigger.

    We pass by these stunning white cliffs in Epes, Alabama. They are part of the Selma Chalk formations which were deposited at about the same time as England’s famous White Cliffs of Dover.

    One little tree peeking up to the sun.
    Bridge at Epes, Alabama

    We Are In Alabama – One State Away From Florida!

    Soon we roll into Kingfisher Marina in Demopolis. Welcome to Alabama!

    The marina office is a bit of a hike from the marina slips so we register and pay at the fuel docks. We are happy Sunshine is in a covered slip as it is still drizzling. We are getting spoiled with the covered slips.

     Turns out Blue Horizon is docked two slips over. Hunky Dory on the other side, and Lyra, an Albin owned by Scott and Melissa, just down from us. Done Saving is a few slips down. And the cutest red Ranger Tug (my new favorite boat) named Hoppy Trails with a three-year-old girl and a golden doodle always peeking out of the back as you walk to the laundry-bath-lounge.

    Doggie aboard Hoppy Trails

    Several Looper boats trickle in throughout the day.

    Matt the Mechanic

    We called the marina earlier in the week to secure a mechanic to tighten up the shaft seals. Sunshine has two engines, so two shafts. The prop is at the end of the shaft. The shaft seals keep the water out of the boat. Pretty important.

    Matt is at the boat early morning as promised. We are always relieved to see a mechanic slight of build. Easier to maneuver in the engine room. Turns out Matt is a Cummins engine expert and a very competent mechanic – affable with a good sense of humor. He fixes the shaft seals and also checks the zincs, which are ok.

    Out for Mexican with Melanie and Rick

    We receive a text from Melanie asking us to join them for lunch. They have reserved the complimentary marina car for two hours.

    Melanie: “Here are our lunch options: pizza, Mexican, Southern, bar food, or fast food. What do you guys prefer?”

    Me: “All of the above. Except for bar food!”

    We end up choosing Mexican. At the restaurant Rick and Melanie converse in fluent Spanish with the waiter. I feel out of place, as when I am in an Asian restaurant and everyone except me is using chopsticks.

    Turns out Rick did a stint after college in the Peace Corps in Guatemala. He parlayed his language skills into a career in international marketing with CNN and other media outlets, working in Atlanta and south Florida. Melanie worked at CNN as well. It’s so interesting to learn the backgrounds of the boaters, and what led them to try the Loop.

    Blue Horizon, Rick and Melanie’s boat, pulling up to the fuel dock.

    After lunch we went to our favorite place – you guessed it, Walmart. Patrick tells me Walmart is the largest employer in the United States. I can see why. They are everywhere.

    Smell the Roses – and Another Miracle

    I keep thinking I’ll do my blog – but there are too many friend opportunities here. Even when doing laundry, there is lots of chatter as the Loopers congregate there.

    Tracy from Done Savings texts me to go for a walk. That I am always up for. Donna from Hattitude joins us.

    A few steps into our walk, Captain Pat phones me. He had planned to reset the batteries, as they were giving us problems again. He tells me they are now charged at 100%. We can only attribute this to a miracle. There is no other explanation for the behavior of these unpredictable batteries!

    Tracy, Donna and I continue talking about the trials and tribulations of Looper life. The mile or so around the marina grounds passes quickly.

    The marina is surrounded by land. It’s like being out in the country.

    We pick the final blooms on the red knockout rose bushes. Actually, Donna picks them for us as she’s the only one who can cut the rose from the bush with her hands.

    So nice to have fresh flowers on the boat. It’s the little things. Donna tells us she had carrots left over from a stew. So she shreds them and bakes carrot muffins. I can’t imagine baking on the boat!

    But then again – I don’t even bake at home. Maybe I will when I return.

    Docktails

    We join about 40 other Loopers at 4:30 for “Docktails” on the roof of the lounge building. This is our biggest gathering with Loopers for sure!

    Todd gets us all together for a group shot. The light is in the way – to the rescue.

    Rene is not putting up a pinata. He is trying to fix the light for the photo shoot.

    Smile everyone!

    You can see the Admiral and the Captain standing left of center. If you look close!

    Sully the Celebrity Dog

    I am doing laundry. A guy comes in and has to leave his little dog outside. No pets allowed in. The little dog is quite upset – he suffers from separation anxiety.

    I offer to go outside and stay with dog. I try to be comforting, but he wants nothing to do with me.

    I later learn, this dog is a Looper celebrity! He is Sully of the Facebook blog “Sully Does the Loop!” Sully belongs to Scott and Lauren aboard Dreamer, a beautiful Krogen Express.

    “Dreamer”

    I love reading about Sully’s antics and adventures. What a clever idea to center your blog around your pet! Sully is quite cute.

    Sully aboard Dreamer

    I can see why he has separation anxiety. If I were treated that good, I wouldn’t want my owner out of my site either!

    About Demopolis

    The city lies at the confluence of the Black Warrior and Tombigbee River. It is situated atop a cliff composed of the Demopolis Chalk Formation, known locally as White Bluff, on the east bank of the Tombigbee. It has a population of approximately 7,500.

    Demopolis was founded in the early 1800s after the fall of Napoleon’s empire. It was named by a group of French expatriates, a mix of exiled Bonapartists and other French refugees who had settled in the United States after the overthrow of the colonial government in Saint-Domingue by enslaved workers. Napoleon had sent troops there in a last attempt to regain control of the island, but they were defeated, largely by high mortality due to yellow fever.

    The name, meaning in Greek “the People’s City” or “City of the People” was chosen to honor the democratic ideals behind the endeavor. First settled in 1817, it is one of the oldest continuous settlements in the interior of Alabama. French colonists had founded Mobile on the coast in the early 18th century. Demopolis was incorporated on December 11, 1821.

    The growing, trading, and milling of cotton continued to be a major basis of the economy up until the World War I-era. The boll weevil infestations of the 1920s and the Great Depression of the 1930s finally ended the one-crop farming system.

    Following the demise of cotton production, beef cattle farming and catfish aquaculture became new major agricultural pursuits. Industrial activities became the major sources of employment by mid-century, with the cement, lumber, and paper industries playing a prominent role in the city’s economy into the 21st century.

    Below are more photos from our Kingfisher Marina stay:

    Love this old wooden Grand Banks – “Mrs. Alabama”
    Lots of old trawlers in this marina
  • Tombigbee Oxbow Anchorage

    November 24, 2023

    November 10, 2023

    We have a reprieve. Instead of departing Columbus at 6 a.m. – we depart at 8:00 a.m.! What a difference two hours make. Especially in the morning!

    The journey down the Tombigbee River is more of the same – barges, towboats, foliage, Looper boats.

    There are three locks – Stennis, Tom Bevil, and Howell Heflin – before our next marina, Kingfisher in Demopolis.

    Calling All Cards

    Boats card on the helm

    There are so many boats and owner names to keep up with. Captain Pat keeps the boat cards of the boats we are travelling with on his helm dash, so he has an aid to help him with boat and crew names.

    Journey Down the River

    There is the occasional announcement over the radio of a log in the river, or an upcoming barge. Once Todd even announced there is a telephone booth on our starboard side!

    This could prove helpful especially as our Verizon reception is almost nonexistent.

    Finally, we enter our first lock – Stennis. A white crane nestles inside the gate.

    There are enough bollards in this lock so that all boats can tie to the wall – no need to raft up. One boat says we are “going rogue.” -:)

    Captain Pat standing guard in the lock.

    The boat Hunky Dory enters the lock with us. Tom and Lisa are traveling the Loop on their C-Dory with their 11-year-old Golden doodle, Miss Cocoa. She seems so well behaved to me; but Cocoa’s owners tell me she has been known to pee on their bed, especially if they leave her.

    They trailered the boat from Oregon to Hoppy’s Marina on the Mississippi River! They’ve done extensive boating on the Hunky Dory – recently from Vancouver to Alaska.

    Also in the lock with us is Gryffin Joy, who we rescued just yesterday.

    Next up is the Tom Bevill lock.

    Captain Pat wants to make it through the Howard Hefflin lock today, then anchor just past that. The other flotilla boats opt not to cross the Hefflin lock today, and instead are anchoring just before lock.

    Can We Join You?

    We hear on the radio, an inquiry from Rick and Melanie on Blue Horizon. Is Sunshine going to push ahead and make it through the last lock?

    Yes, we are! We have already contacted the lockmaster, asking our chances to make it through the lock before 4 p.m. so we can anchor in the daylight. She assures us we can.

    We are grateful to have Blue Horizon join us. It’s nice to have another boat to travel with to this last lock.

    Blue Horizon and Sunshine do just that.

    After secured in the lock Melanie radios to the Lockmaster: “Drop us quick! We need daylight to anchor in!”

    We soon are out of the lock and putting down our anchors in the Oxbow anchorage.

    We get to our anchorage and there is Lyra. We met their owners – Scott and Melissa – in Columbus.

    Tomorrow morning, we can make it to Kingfisher Marina early afternoon.

    Only two more river locks to go – Demopolis and Coffeeville!

  • To Columbus Marina – Columbus, Mississippi

    November 21, 2023

    November 9, 2023

    Four Locks in One Day

    Boats departing Midway Marina

    Today we are following the same drill as yesterday. Departure is at 6 a.m. with Todd on Sea No Evil taking the lead, and Tom on Beachside in second command.

    With four locks awaiting us, we have heard this can be a challenging day. We hope we can make our destination of Columbus, Mississippi by 4 p.m.  

    We leave Midway Marina at Mile Marker 394.0 Our first lock is the Fulton Lock at Mile Marker 391.0 Todd announces on the radio the Lockmaster is ready for our arrival. Yeah! Once again – no wait.

    We then hear on the radio “Happy Birthday” music. It is Diane’s (on Beachside) birthday! She graciously accepts all the birthday wishes.

    Getting some welcome daylight

    The boats enter the lock following same pattern as yesterday. We tie up to Beachside and wish Diane ‘Happy Birthday!’ We again are grateful to spend the day on the locks with them. Makes for a quick journey as we chat away.

    Wilkins Lock – Smithville

    The second lock is Wilkins – again, no wait, no issues. We are on a roll. We think.

    Into the Mystic departing the lock

    Sunshine – the Little Boat That Could

    Traveling through Lake Foama to third lock.

    Approaching the third lock – Amory – we hear there will be a delay. The boats go into a holding pattern, waiting for the lock to open. Someone starts a trivia game over the radio with “Name that Tune.” This is short lived.

    It’s difficult to keep the boat in the channel. Captain Pat notices the depth is at three feet on our starboard side. Everyone is told to stay in the middle of the channel.

    Waiting for the lock to open

    Captain Pat turns to me and says “something’s going on back there” meaning there is trouble with a boat in the back of the pack. Sure enough, we hear that Gryffin Joy has drifted too far to the port side and is grounded. George on Done Saving offers to bring his boat over to pull out ‘Griffin Joy.’

    Doug on Hattitude applauds George on the radio for his efforts. Pat responds “yes, he’s pulled your butt out a few times!” Doug replies, “Just once!”

    We knew George had pulled Doug out a few days ago when Hattitude went aground.

    It doesn’t go too well for George this time. Done Savings gets stuck too.

    So now we have two boats out of commission.

    There are so many voices chiming in on the radio, offering support and suggestions. It’s dizzying.

    Captain Pat and Sunshine to the Rescue

    Captain Pat radios George and says he will bring Sunshine there to help them, as our draft is only three feet. So off we go.

    George, on his dinghy, brings a line from his boat to Captain Pat. Minutes later, Done Saving is back in business. Tracy takes over the helm, and George brings a line to Gryffin Joy and back to Pat.

    Gryffin Joy awaiting their rescue

    It gets frantic, as a barge is exiting the lock and into the channel, where all our boats are. Tracy manages to get Done Saving out of the way.

    Captain Pat and Sunshine successfully pulls Gryffin Joy out! Yeah! Two for two.

    The other boats are secured to the walls of the lock and awaiting the three of us. As Sunshine makes it’s way into the lock, everyone applauds us and honks their boat horns. That did make us feel good.

    Captain Pat did a great job with that rescue! So proud of him.

    There’s a Black Dog in the River!

    One more lock – Aberdeen – at Mile Marker 357.5. Our marina at Columbus is at Mile Marker 335.0

    We are high on adrenaline. Pat talks to George and all is well. While in the lock George checks his strainers for mud, etc., and everything looks good on his boat. Thank goodness. Griffyn Joy says his boat is ok too.

    Captain Todd is busy on the radio. He always lets the other boats know of logs, wood, and debris in the river – “on your starboard side” or “on your port side.” There are comical references too, as when he announces the “real McCoy” is on your port, referring to this guy:

    “Real McCoy” sighting

    The most surprising is “there’s a black dog in the river!”

    Sure enough, we spot a black dog. We slow down and he swims right in front of the boat. We see his big ears and eyes and his collar. He looks like he knows where he is going, like he’s made this trip before. I sure hope so! Other boats said he made it to the opposite shore and seemed ok.

    Friendliest Tugboat Captain

    Another afternoon delight is an encounter with the friendliest tugboat captain ever. Usually, the towboat captains communicate with barely an audible grunt.

    Tugboat on Loakfoma Lake

    This guy was totally the opposite. In his thick southern drawl he booms over the radio,

    “My goodness! I’ve never seen so many boats! Where are y’all from?”

    Todd proceeds to tell him we are “Loopers” and what that entails. The boat operator is quite intrigued.

    “Well – where y’all headed to?”

    Todd replies, “Florida.”

    “Well, I’d sure like to go with you!”

    He wishes us safe travels as we continue our journey.

    Arrival at Columbus Marina

    We are elated to make the final lock and find ourselves in the Columbus Marina around 3:30 p.m. Not bad timing at all considering our rescue efforts.

    Columbus Marina is not the best of marinas. We congregate at the office waiting to pay. The boaters are still buzzing with congratulations to Captain Pat and Sunshine.

    The dockmaster finally gets everyone registered and leaves us with us resource guides for the Tenn-Tom Locks and Waterway Anchorages.

    Todd stops by our boat early evening to tell us tomorrow we have an 8 a.m. departure. This is quite welcoming news after two 5 a.m. mornings for the 6 a.m. departure!

    Dinner and showers and we are off to sleep.

    About Columbus – Possum Town – Mississippi:

    Columbus is 120 miles west of Birmingham, Alabama. It has an estimated population of 24,000. In 1810, John Pitchlynn, the U.S. Indian agent and interpreter for the Choctaw Nation, moved to Plymouth Bluff and built a home, established a farm, and transacted Choctaw Agency business.

    The town was settled where Andrew Jackson’s Military Road crossed the Tombigbee River four miles south of John Pitchlynn’s residence at Plymouth Bluff. In 1820 the post office that had been at Pitchlynn’s relocated to Columbus.

    Before its incorporation, the town site was referred to informally as Possum Town, a name given by the local Native Americans. The name Possum Town remains the town’s nickname among locals.

    During the American Civil War, Columbus was a hospital town. Many of the casualties from the Battle of Shilo were brought to Columbus. Thousands were eventually buried in the town’s Friendship Cemetery.

    One of the hospitals was located at Annunciation Catholic Church, built in 1863 and still operating today.

    Columbus has hosted Columbus Air Force Base (CAFB) since World War II. CAFB was founded as a flight training school. Today, it is one of only four basic Air Force flight training bases in the United States, and prized as the only one where regular flight conditions may be experienced. Despite this, CAFB has repeatedly hung in the balance during Basic Realignment and Closure (BRAC) hearings.

    Major employers of Columbus are:

    Columbus Air Force Base

    Baptist Memorial Hospital

    Mississippi University for Women

    Steel Dynamics, Inc.

    Paccar (diesel engines)

    American Eurocopter (military aircraft)

    Baldor (electric motors)

    Aurora Flight Sciences

    Stark Aerospace (unmanned defense systems)

    Valmet (paper machine rolls and roll covers)

  • To Midway Marina – Fulton, Mississippi

    November 20, 2023

    Wednesday, November 8, 2023

    Two Days of River Locks

    Captain Pat in the Jamie Whitten Lock

    The Admiral is anxious about the upcoming two days. The Captain not so much. We have three locks to go through today, four tomorrow. It can take an hour to go through a lock; it can take three hours. It depends on barge and boat traffic and the lockmasters.

    Lock Guide received at Grand Harbor Marina

    Traveling through the locks with other Looper boats – I think – has more advantages than disadvantages. The advantage is there is safety and power in numbers. The disadvantage is you lose autonomy, as you are at the mercy of the collective process. That can present frustrations.

    We leave Grand Harbor just at sunup – 6 a.m. It’s dark but we manage. We have about 12 boats with us.

    Grand Harbor is at Mile Marker 449.7.  Our first lock – Whitten – is at Mile Marker 411.9. We have a total of three locks today before we reach our destination of Midway Marina.

    The Leaders of the Pack

    The boats from the nearby marina, Safe Harbor Aqua Yacht, soon join us, making a total of twelve boats in our flotilla. We are fortunate to have Todd of Sea No Evil leading the group, co-led by Tom on Beachside.

    It may not seem much to be leading the pack. But there is a lot to it. First, there is monitoring the locks – contacting the lockmaster, informing them of the number of boats, finding out how many and the locations of bollards (to determine if each boat takes a bollard, or do we raft boats), asking about barge traffic and are any waits anticipated.

    This information is then relayed to the other captains in the twelve-boat flotilla via radio – which sometimes isn’t audible and has to be repeated.

    Then there is barge and towboat traffic, and the notification to the other boats about logs and debris in the water.

    Towboat and Barge Traffic

    On the rivers you encounter several towboats pushing barges. They can push from one to two barges, to forty. You can see the towboats (hopefully) on your AIS and get the name of the tugboat so you can radio them. Before attempting to pass or overtake a towboat, you contact the towboat captain on the radio and ask for directions as to which side he prefers you to pass on.

    The following taken from our Looper Guidebook:

    “To remember what side to pass on, consider the alphabet. “P” comes before “S” and we read left to right; so, Port is on your left, Starboard on your right. Likewise, “1” comes before “2” so 1 is on your left.

    When the towboat captain responds “see you on the one” or “see you on the one whistle” he is telling you to pass on your port side. “See you on the two” means pass on the starboard.”

    The book says years ago before radios were used the towboat captain would blow a whistle to indicate what side to pass on. One whistle blow meant port, two whistle blows meant starboard. So now you will hear the towboat captain sometimes say, “On the one whistle” or “on the two whistle.”

    Communicating by Radio

    Per Captain Pat – you need two radios on at all times – the portable VHF one and the fixed mounted one, on the helm dash.

    Portable VHF Radio

    On the mobile radio you talk to the tug captains (the tugs or towboats that push the barges), bridge operators, and lockmasters.

    The helm radio is reserved for emergencies and talking to other Looper boats.

    You can use the main or the portable to talk to the marinas when coming into their ports.

    Channel 16 is the main communication channel for emergencies, marinas, and coast guard.

    Once you establish contact, you will be instructed as to what channel to go on to continue your conversation. This is to obviate jamming up the emergency channel of 16.

    Pass on the One or the Two?

    It gets harry when you hear the barge radio instructions but can’t denote, is it on the one or the two? Or someone hears the wrong instructions and relays to the group, and then has to be corrected. Hopefully you hear the correction before you’re already proceeding to the other side!

    Sometimes it is difficult to garner a response from the captain. You don’t know if your radio isn’t working, you are on the wrong channel, or the towboat captain just doesn’t want to respond.

    The towboat captains are monitoring many channels and are working hard, so you have to give them a break. For the most part they are easy to work with.

    Clarification – Tugboat, Towboat or Barge?

    Towboat named Lexington! Maybe from Kentucky.

    I use the terms interchangeably. To clarify:

    Barges are flat-bottomed boats for carrying freight, typically on canals and rivers, either under its own power or towed by another boat.

    That’s a barge!

    Tugboats are one-deck boats with a wheelhouse on top.

    Towboats are one-, two-, three-, or even four-deck boats with the wheelhouse topping it off.

    Visually, the tugboat has deep water propellers, a pointy bow and a deep hull. A towboat has a confusing name. It pushes boats rather than pulling them.

    River Debris and Logs

    A big concern when travelling the rivers is to stay clear of logs and debris. These can really do damage to your boat.

    We spotted the logs in these photos n Mobile Bay.
    Most logs are not as clearly visible as these.

    The boat in the lead is the first one to see a log in the river, or debris. You will hear on the radio “Big branch on my port side.” This alerts the other boats to be on the lookout. This is so helpful and much appreciated!

    The Whitten Lock

    Our first lock is the Jamie Whitten Lock.There is a whopping 72-foot drop in this lock!

    Maria from Sea No Evil texts me telling me to wear raingear – water comes from the walls onto the boats at this lock! She knows this because her friend Sara on Coconuts went through this lock yesterday. I relay the information to Tracy on Done Saving and Donna on Hattitude. Often word of mouth – or text – is best communication.

    This is a stationery, not floating, bollard. We always tied to a floating bollard.
    Sunshine secured in lock on a floating bollard.

    As we approach the Whitten Lock, the boats start jockeying over the radio for the starboard or port side for locking. You have to secure your fenders and lines on the side of the boat that will be hitting the wall. Most boats have lines and fenders on both sides of the boat, just in case.

    Captain Pat aboard Sunshine, secured in the lock.

    We prefer a starboard lock and grab the third floating bollard, just in front of Hattitude, the 53-foot Hatteras, that has a dinghy trailing them. Hattitude needs the final two bollards because of its size, and that dinghy.

    Hattitude secured in the lock. The gates close.

    Sure enough – soon we feel the water pouring from the walls. Only on the starboard side – which is why the guidebook says best to tie up on East side!

    The water starts pouring in!

    A 72-foot drop!

    We make it through the first lock!

    The Montgomery and Rankin Locks

    Next is the Montgomery Lock, at Mile Marker406.7, just five miles away.

    Montgomery Lock

    There appears to be more boats than bollards. Captain Pat comments “now I feel wanted!” when Beachside asks us to raft up beside them.

    Rick on True Horizon pipes up on the radio:

    “Is that like ‘Sunshine on your shoulder?’ “

    “Makes you happy,” someone responds.

    A little John Denver humor. It is fun when the Captains banter with each other over the radios.

    We will continue this locking setup for the next two days.

    Sunshine rafted to Beachside in the Montgomery Lock
    Diane, Patrick and Cindy

    It’s nice to meet new people. We have seen Beachside and passed owners Diane and Tom in the laundry or on the docks, but never really talked. We discover they are from Massachusetts – Diane recognized Pat’s accent. Tom had a career with the Armed Forces in the space arena, which eventually landed them in Satellite Beach, Florida.

    Beachside and Sunshine in the lock

    Last lock of the day is the Rankin Lock – Mile Marker 398.4 – just a few miles from Midway Marina.

    Last lock of the day – Rankin Lock

    Arrival at Midway Marina – Fulton, Mississippi

    Sunset at Midway Marina – Fulton, Mississippi

    Finally, we pull into Midway Marina. With so many boats arriving at the same time, the dockmaster asks us to come in sequence. One by one she gives instructions over the radio as to your slip number and location. You must be patient with this many boats. And of course, Sunshine is at the back of the pack.

    The dockhands are scrambling to offer assistance and get the boats tied securely. We are not in a slip, but rather tied up to a long dock. Even with the strong winds we make it in fine.

    Captain Pat is exhausted. Long day of travel. We decline dinner invites to the restaurant at the top of the hill as we already have dinner prepared on our boat.  After dinner we do join George and Tracy (Done Saving) and Doug and Donna (Hattitude) to discuss anchorage and marina stops for the next few days.

    At the restaurant we meet Brad and Mandy from Tenacity who join us. There’s a lot of drinks and chatter so we don’t get much planning done. Brad strikes up a conversation with a local customer:

    “Just where are we?” 

    “What? You don’t know where you are?” she replies with a thick Mississippi accent.

    He’s trying to joke with her about our Southern remote location.

    “Where are you from?” she asks.

    “Michigan.” Brad replies.

    She’s not sure where that is, but her boyfriend says he was there once.

    This goes on for a while and garners some laughs. She asks how did Brad get here all the way from Michigan? He replies by boat and that really confuses her. (Although we are in a marina – so go figure.)

    We don’t get much trip planning done – but we do have some fun after a long day of travel.

    We close our eyes for sleep – tomorrow morning is another 6 a.m. departure!

    Midway Marina offers vacation cabins to rent.

    Fulton, Mississippi Overview:

    Fulton, population of 3,900, was established in 1837 and named for Robert Fulton, the inventor of the steamboat. As it is located on the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway it hosts waterway sports such as boating, skiing, canoeing, and fishing.

    The name Mississippi comes from Ojibwa misi-ipi meaning simply “big river.” In 1666 French explorers in the Great Lakes region encountered the Ojibwa name and rendered the river Messipi. The Ojibwa lived in Minnesota where the river originated. The state of Mississippi is named after the river.

    Although hunting and gathering plants for food was important, the Mississippians were mainly farmers. They grew corn, beans, and squash, called the “three sisters” by historic Ojibwa and Southeastern Indians.

    Here are photos of the fall foliage we viewed on our journey today:

    The weather may not be the best, but you do have to marvel at the colorful trees.

    Good bye, Midway Marina
  • Swallow Bluff Island, the Tenn-Tom Waterway and Grand Harbor Marina

    November 19, 2023

    Sunday, November 5 – Tuesday, November 7

    Swallow Bluff Island

    Home atop the cliffs surrounded by fall foliage.

    Once again, Kentucky Lake proves to be magnificent -homes on stilts, stately mansions, autumn foliage and stony cliffs climbing the shoreline. We are in an area called “Bath Springs.”

    Homes along the cliffed shoreline
    Homes on stilts
    House up high on the cliff
    Incredible estates

    Mark’s First Dinghy Ride

    It’s always heartwarming to witness a Looper’s “first” boating experience. Early afternoon we anchor in Swallow Bluff Island. Mark on Paradise was so excited to put his dinghy in the water and take it for a spin.

    Mark talking to Pat from his dinghy

    Donna and Doug on Hattitude invites everyone – Sunshine, Hattitude, and Paradise – over for steaks. I offer to bring salad, Tracy potatoes, and Mel a macaroni salad. Mark and Mel pick us up on their dinghy and off we go.

    The boys enjoying the sunset and appetizer atop Hattitude –
    Captains Pat, Mark and Doug

    Donna and Doug love to entertain and we are more than grateful for their hospitality.

    Sunset at Swallow Bluff

    Power of Social Media

    En route to Swallow Bluff Island, Captain Pat spots a black buoy in the water – a big one. He manages to retrieve it. We see its new and in great shape.

    Donna calls me and tells me that she sees on the AGLCA Facebook post that the boat Elysium has lost a fender. They happen to be anchored in the same anchorage as us. I had their boat card from our stay at Paris Landing.

    We contact Elysium and they are thrilled with our rescue of their fender. The next morning we do the handoff – they are elated.

    Elysium gets their fender back!

    The Tennessee, Kentucky Lake, and Tombigbee Waterway to Mobile Bay

    Our route from Green Turtle Bay Resort to Mobile Bay is 655 miles! Our “official” distance on the Tennessee-Tombigbee (Tenn-Tom) River is 234 miles. It is the connection between Kentucky Lake (Tennessee) and the Black Warrior-Tombigbee River and completes our voyage via the Alabama and Mobile River to Mobile Bay.

    The Tenn-Tom waterway has eleven locks and was a bigger man-made canal project than the Panama Canal!

    The Tenn-Tom is the most popular route to the Gulf of Mexico. Before it was completed the only route from Chicago to the Gulf was the lower Mississippi River. The Tenn-Tom shortens our distance from Chicago to the Gulf ICW by 400-miles and from Chicago to Mobile Bay by almost 650 miles!

    Many Loopers refer to the entire waterway from Paducah (Mile 0 on the Tennessee River) to Mobile Bay as the Tennessee-Tombigbee Route or Waterway. Technically the “Tenn-Tom” is only 234 miles of this 655 miles of waterway system to Mobile Bay.

    We are told the waterway is not as busy with tow traffic as the Mississippi, but you encounter a few. Give them plenty of room, particularly on tight bends. The wakes from passing tows is a gentle roll and not as choppy as large cruisers. In narrow sections the wake will bounce back and forth for some time.

    Per our AGLCA Guidebook:

    “The Tenn-Tom route to Mobile is one of the most remote sections on the Loop. Once past Grand Harbor Marina, there’s not a lot to do if you are one who thrives on Tiki bars and nightlife.”

    To Grand Harbor Marina

    There is Sunshine on the left, docked outside the Grand Harbor office.
    Beachside is docked in front of the office.

    Monday we leave the anchorage and head to Grand Harbor Marina. Hattitude and Paradise are in a nearby marina, Safe Harbor Aqua.

    We have a two-day stay at Grand Harbor and are so looking forward to it. After working so hard in Green Turtle Bay, Captain Pat needs a respite. He says he is not doing any work, just resting.

    The Admiral knows that will never happen.

    A Rocketship Ship!

    ULA “Rocketship”

    En route to Grand Harbor, we see a very different looking motor vessel. It says on the side “Rocketship.”

    After some investigation we discover it is indeed a “rocket” ship. It carries parts used to make a rocket ship!

    “ULA” stands for “United Launch Alliance,” an American aerospace manufacturer, defense contractor and launch service provider that manufactures and operates a number of rocket vehicles that launch spacecraft into orbits around Earth and other bodies in the solar system.

    R/S RocketShip is a unique cargo ship used to transport rockets from ULA’s 1.6 million square foot production facility in Decatur, Alabama.

    RocketShip has been in use for nearly two decades, bringing Delta IV rocket stages to Cape Canaveral Space Force Station, Florida, and Vandenberg Space Force Base, California.

    RocketShip is a highly maneuverable custom-built rocket transport ship able to navigate both rivers and ocean – the only U.S. flagged ship with this versatility. The roll-on, roll-off cargo ship is 312 feet long, weighs nearly 19 million pounds, has complete living quarters and dining area for its crew of sixteen, a heli-pad on the top deck, a below deck machine shop and sophisticated computers and navigational aids on the bridge.

    Just yesterday ULA made the news, as the sale of ULA is nearing its end, with three potential buyers. Jointly owned by Lockheed Martin and Boeing, ULA was founded in 2006 and for a time had a monopoly on US government launch contracts.

    Sources say the three buyers include a private equity fund, the Jeff Bezos-owned space company Blue Origin, and a well-capitalized aerospace firm interested in increasing its space portfolio.

    Wood Chips

    We continue down the rivers, and are surprised to see this barge towing “wood chips.” The tow captain tells Pat they are from a large wood chipping facility. The barge is headed for Kentucky.

    Barge with wood chips – lots of wood chips!

    Arrival at Grand Harbor Marina

    November 6 and 7

    We are so grateful to be at a marina! Our slip is next to the office and facilities.

    Grand Harbor Marina office

    The Admiral is embarrassed as we dock. I can’t seem to follow the Captain’s orders fast enough. A fellow Looper from Sea No Evil, Todd, comes to the rescue. They are docked beside us. I met his wife Maria in DuSable Harbor in Chicago. They are docked beside us.

    After Captain Pat hooks up the water, we hear a loud “boom!” It sounds like a shotgun. We discover the water pressure blew off the hose in the back of the boat.

    Todd comes over and gives Pat an apparatus that will slow the water pressure from the dock, so your water lines won’t blow. Todd has an extra and says we can keep this one. The Captain is impressed, it is made of copper.

    Stay tuned – Todd will prove even more helpful later in our journey.

    Tennessee or Mississippi?

    I am greeted by a cheerful Harbor Master when I enter the marina office to check in. I notice on my phone the location reads “Iuka, Mississippi.”

    Me: “I have a crazy question for you. Are we in Tennessee or Mississippi?”

    Harbor Master: “Not crazy at all! You are in both!

    By land you are in Tennessee – if you drive into the nearby towns. The water, however, is in Mississippi. Anything you purchase at the marina – fuel, supplies, etc. – is taxed by Mississippi. On land everything is taxed by Tennessee.”

    Shilo National Military Park

    Most Loopers are excited to be at Pickwick, the site of the Shilo National Military Park – six thousand acres commemorating the epic struggle of the Civil War. Nearly 110,000 American troops clashed in a bloody contest that resulted in 23,746 casualties, more casualties than in all of America’s previous wars combined.

    The park features military reenactments, museums, films, ranger programs and walking tours. A fellow Looper says “you have to go. It is quite sobering.”

    Cemetery entrance at Shilo National Park

    We are not in the mood for anything sobering.

    We are interested in a trip to WalMart and a dinner out. I reserve the car for tomorrow afternoon.

    Looking back, we probably should have made a visit to Shilo. Next time.

    Shiny Boats

    The Grand Harbor Marina is next to the Grand Harbor Resort. There’s a lounge and gym in their main lobby.

    Grand Harbor Resort Condos

    Walking to the resort you pass the boats docked in the marina slips. I love the sailboats, especially the older ones.

    I am taking a photo of this sailboat, and I look up and see the owner waiting to go to this boat!
    I apologize. He says not a problem.
    Love the name of this sailboat – “Little Rascal!”

    I return to the boat and Captain Pat says “Did you see all the boats?”

    Uh, yes, it is a marina.

    He goes on to rave about how shiny the boat hulls are. He is so impressed he asks the marina staff if there is a detailing service nearby. They confirm there is an outstanding one that services this marina.

    Captain Pat: “Wow, if I’d known that, we would have stayed another day. I could have had Sunshine polished and waxed and detailed.”

    Anyone who knows the Captain knows he constantly cleans the boat. Does he ever take care of Sunshine!

    Date Night – Walmart, Lowes, and Ma Ma Fia

    Monday evening is a delightful adventure. The Captain drives us in the courtesy car to Savannah – Tennessee, that is. The marina recommends an Italian restaurant there – Ma Ma Fia (not Mia.)

    Ma Ma Fia Restaurant – knew it was a good restaurant when I saw this sign!

    It’s a dark ride on winding two-lane roads to Savannah. We head to WalMart, then to Lowe’s across the street. The Captain needs new knee pads. That’s how much work he’s done on the boat! His knee pads are worn out.

    The Admiral with her new Italian friend.

    The dinner is fabulous and the service outstanding. “Baked spaghetti” which we have never heard of. Quaint restaurant – great recommendation.

    We stop at a gas station to return the car filled up. There’s a honky tonk bar next to the gas station with an ominous name:

    We make it back to the marina, unpack our provisions into the cart, make it down two flights of stairs, and traverse across the docks to our boat slip to unload. This reminds me of being at the Lake, heading to the island with groceries and God knows what else.

    Flotilla to the Locks

    We are grateful to be asked to join a flotilla of Looper boats that are leaving Grand Harbor tomorrow. It’s an early departure – 6 a.m. – and Todd on Sea No Evil is leading the troops to Midway Marina.

    Thank goodness Captain Pat did not hear of that detailing service and we stayed behind a day. We would have missed a great flotilla through the next set of locks.

    Early morning departure from Grand Harbor – waiting for the sunrise
    Sailboats at sunrise
    Good by, Grand Harbor Marina
  • Paris to Cuba in One Day

    November 17, 2023

    Tennessee, that is.

    Friday, November 3 and Saturday, November 4, 2023

    Paris Landing

    Friday, November 3, we leave Green Turtle Bay for Paris Landing, a state park in Tennessee on Kentucky Lake.

    Reminds me of the rockers in front of a Cracker Barrel restaurant

    Finally we reconnect with Tracy and George on Done Saving and Donna and Doug on Hattitude. They did a five-day side trip to Nashville and loved it.

    We also meet up with several other Loopers. We are all headed south.

    This is a nice little marina – would have enjoyed staying longer.

    The State Park is beautiful.
    I met Wendy, the wonder dog, who lives aboard Encantada, with Tom and Kristina
    Mel giving Wendy some loving.
    Sea No Evil waiting early in the morning for the fuel worker to arrive.
    Sunshine docked at Paris Landing

    The voyage on Kentucky Lake to Cuba Landing is a pretty one – stately homes, vibrant foliage.

    Morning reflection of trees on the Lake
    There is a house way up in the hills
    More houses nestled in the trees
    Handsome estate

    Cuba Landing

    We arrive Cuba Landing marina.

    All Looper boats take slips here. We decide to anchor.

    Sunshine anchored just outside the marina.
    Cuba Landing Marina
    More covered slips
    Beachside docked in slip
    Coconuts

    Hattitude

    Sundancer

    We witness a stunning sunset with Sunshine gleaming in the glow.

    The Buoys all lined up, watching the sunset.

    We hear an engine, look out our windows, and here comes George and Tracy on their dinghy.  We are thrilled to see them and glad they made the trip over to our boat.

    Our friends Tracy and George, dinghying over to our boat for a visit.

    After a couple of hours of friendly fun and catching up, darkness descends. We lend them a spotlight and they motor back to their boat.

    We are off to bed – tomorrow morning we will journey to Swallow Bluff Island to anchor out with Paradise, Done Saving, and Hattitude.

    Done Saving leaving Cuba Landing

    Insert Pics

    Good bye, Cuba Landing
  • To Green Turtle Bay

    November 17, 2023

    October 30, 2023 – November 2, 2023

    Sunshine Makes a Visit to Kentucky!

    Sunshine makes it to Green Turtle Bay Marina!
    My brother Paul surprises us with a visit and a condo stay!
    Paul with his favorite brother-in-law – Captain Pat

    Green Turtle Bay Resort and Marina is a Looper favorite, and even more so for the Admiral as Kentucky is her home state. Who would have thought Sunshine would someday make it to Kentucky!

    In need of a respite from the grueling days on the rivers, we are most content to be docked in a slip for a few days. We have not been in a marina since we left Hoppie’s October 26!

    The weather has turned for the better – the sun is shining! We awaken to frost (even a little ice) on the dock. It’s still sweater weather but at least sunny.

    Captain Pat spends a lot of time in the engine room.
    And is hoping the mechanic is of small stature!

    Captain Pat’s to-do list is a mile long. First on the list is a visit from the mechanic to fix the windshield wipers and the bilge pump. Both prove to be a two-day job and we are happy with the results.

    Captain Pat is caulking the two dripping latches in the salon. He has to do this repair in two stages and hope the dry sunny weather continues. Fortunately, it does and the leaks are fixed.

    Walmart Shopping Trip

    The Admiral and friend Mel from Paradise

    Mark and Mel reserve a courtesy car and invite us to join them for a trip to Walmart. Of course, we say yes.

    I joke that most women get excited for brunch and mimosas. Looper women look forward to a trip to Walmart!

    Visit from Our Brother Paul!

    Paul takes his sister to Patti’s in Green Turtle Bay

    The big highlight is a surprise visit from my brother Paul who lives in Lexington, Kentucky. I’m excited to give him an inkling of Looper life and introduce him to some fellow Loopers. I show him the laundry, bath facilities, and office.

    Four Looper boats – Red Pearl, Odyssey, Blue Moon, and Cavalier – are celebrating as they have “crossed their wake” and completed their Loop. Everyone gathers at the marina gazebo to toast their accomplishment. Paul gets to experience Looper “docktails.” About twenty Loopers gather to congratulate them. We don’t stay long; it is cold and we have dinner reservations at Patti’s!

    Patti’s 1880’s Settlement

    Captain Pat finishes his chores just in time for the Looper celebration. Paul then drives us to Patti’s 1880 Settlement, a legendary restaurant in Grand Rivers, Kentucky, not far from the marina.

    Patti’s 1880’s Settlement is a recreated historical log cabin village complete with an animal park, gold mining, gardens, streams, mini-golf, bakery, gift shop and restaurants. Patti’s 1880’s Restaurant is famous for two-inch pork chops, meringue pies and flowerpot bread.

    Coconut Cream Pie – the Captain’s favorite!
    Chess Pie – the Admiral’s favorite!
    Flowerpot Bread

    The staff tells us they begin Christmas decorating in August! It shows. The interior and outdoor facilities are lit up with festive decorations.

    Each dining room is decorated to a different theme. Captain Pat and Paul have the pork chops, the Admiral the catfish. Delicious! Coconut Cream Pie and Chess Pie for dessert.

    A Night Off the Boat

    Paul, in his generosity and kindness, wants us to experience some rest and relaxation off the boat. He rents a condo at the resort near the marina.

    We pack our overnight bags and off we go. I am shocked the Captain leaves Sunshine! He hasn’t slept off the boat since late June when we embarked on our second phase of this Loop journey. I did make a quick trip home in October.

    The Captain making a birthday call to his sister Kathleen.

    I can’t figure if he wants to give Sunshine a break, not leave his wife, or enjoy all the snacks and goodies Gail packed for us! Probably he just wanted some time with Paul!

    You can see how comfy and welcoming the condo is. We enjoy the night, and breakfast the next morning. Then we are back on Sunshine and Paul departs for his drive home.

    Brother and sister by Sunshine

    It is always so nice to see family. I so appreciated David and Vicki’s visit to Chicago to see us. I still have to post a blog on that visit. I will!

    A Gifted Quilt

    Our dock neighbors are friendly and nice. They are aboard “Fly Dixie,” a huge Hatteras from St. Louis, Missouri.

    “Fly Dixie”

    They plan to take Fly Dixie to Key West for the winter. Their three dogs – two Dobermans, a schnauzer and another small dog -. greet us when we come and go.

    Three of the four doggies!

    The day before we leave, I hear a call from David, our boat neighbor, on the dock.

    “Cindy, when are you leaving?”

    “Tomorrow is the plan.”

    “I have something for you.”

    He returns with his gift in his hands.

    “I make quilts. I have a quilting machine at home. I bring unfinished quilts on the boat and bind them. I’ll meet someone and think ‘they could use a quilt.’ So, I’d like to give one to you and Patrick.”

    David with the quilt he made!

    He hands me the quilt. It is beautiful! Blue colors that perfectly match the interior of Sunshine.

    “David! I’m so touched. That is so unbelievably generous of you!”

    “I am happy to give this to you. Enjoy!”

    Has that quilt ever come in handy! We took quilts off the boat in June, thinking we will not need them. Were we ever wrong!

    My mother quilted and loved giving her handiwork away. Maybe she was sending me a sign from heaven. Especially as we missed the Quilt Museum in Paducah!

    David bidding Captain Pat farewell

    What a nice gift, David! Thank you.

    Reluctant Wife, Supportive Wife

    We meet some incredible people on this trip. People like David.

    One day in the laundry room I’m chatting with Jill. Jill and her husband Scott are aboard ‘Hope and Dreams’ a ranger tug that I admire. Jill has this sweet disposition and is just such a lovely person.
    We are discussing what brought us on this trip.

    Jill says “I decided I’m not the reluctant wife. I’m the supportive wife.”

    Her words have stayed with me. I need to be more of a supportive wife! It is all in the attitude.

    And this is quite an adventure!

    Here are more photos from our stay at Green Turtle Bay!

    This was a major milestone, to get to Green Turtle Bay!
    Little chapel at Patti’s
    Loved seeing all the birdhouses – and the birds
    Flags flying high at the marina
    Covered slips in the marina
    Sailboats
    Boat from my hometown, Owensboro
    I see this boat again! The name intrigues me.
    I ask the boat’s captain the reason behind the name.
    He says it simply means “we are just regular eggs from Delaware. Nothing special.”
    The owners of this boat – John and Linda – explain their boat name on their boat card:
    “Hark now, hear the sailor’s cry,
    Smell the sea and feel the sky,
    Let your soul and spirit fly,
    Into the Mystic.
    – Van Morrison
    And they have a dog and cat on board!
    Entrance to Green Turtle Bay
    Sunrise
    My t-shirt find
    Sunset – good by Green Turtle Bay
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Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure

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