Pat and Cindy's Great Loop Adventure

Monday, June 6, we flew back to our boat at Osprey Marina in Myrtle Beach. It was good to be back “home” aboard Sunshine.

Tuesday we had intentions of travelling to Sneads Ferry to visit our nephew, Patrick Maguire, and his family – Simone, Jamison and Lochlan. Unfortunately we came down with a flu and hung out at the marina to recuperate.

Wednesday, still not quite feeling well, we did leave Osprey and anchored out that evening in Southport. We experienced some “swing” bridges along the way. A swing bridge opens horizontally, not vertically. Instead of the bridge going “up” it swings around.

We finally made it to Sneads Ferry Thursday evening, June 9 and stayed until Saturday, June 11. Unfortunately we didn’t make it to see the Maguires as we were still under the weather.

Major Patrick was our hero! He came through with groceries and pharmacy deliveries. You are the best, Patrick! We couldn’t have done it without you.

And — if you are looking for an investment opportunity, check out Patrick’s new venture – https://www.flywilmingtonnc.com/

Another bright spot at Sneads Ferry was the dockhand at the marina where upon leaving we picked up fuel. His name was Nathan. We inquired about the dog tags around his neck. Turns out he is named after his Dad’s best friend, Nathan, who died serving our country in Volusia, Afghanistan. Thank you to Nathan, for living up to the legend of his Dad’s fallen friend and hero.

We flew home to Boca Raton from Myrtle Beach on Thursday, June 2, and stayed there until Monday, June 6. We came home to celebrate the life of our good friend, Ben Troxell. Ben touched so many lives and made such a difference in the community. He was a beloved member of St. Joan of Arc parish and was a true example of service.

This photo features two other beautiful souls who have left us – Greg Dorsey and Father Timothy Johnson. We love you all and miss you so.

We are praying for Kathy and her entire family, and all the friends who dearly miss Ben. May you rest in peace, Benjamin F. Troxell III.

Tuesday, May 31, and Wednesday, June 1, we made Osprey Marina in Myrtle Beach our home base. This marina reminded me of Kentucky. It’s tucked away in a country setting with flowers, pine trees, and rocking chairs on the porch. And supposedly alligators, although we never saw one. Just some hungry turtles. One evening we fed one turtle who stuck his head up by the boat, looking up at us. The next morning we had three turtles!

Anne and Mitch docked beside us, and invited us over for Italian dinner takeout on their boat. Really was fun – a great couple, so glad we met them.

There’s a lot of activity at this marina. Patrick met several fellow boaters – the guys are always on the dock exchanging stories about what else – boats.

Patrick was able to secure mechanics to work on the synchronizers. The hard part was finding a guy small enough to fit in the engine room. We miss Frank! It all worked out though. (Although Andrew says we got hosed on the price. What are you going to do.)

The reason we stumbled upon this marina – we needed to fly home, and this marina is ten minutes from the Myrtle Beach airport.

Here are some pics from Osprey Marina:

Monday, May 30 we departed Charleston and headed toward Georgetown, South Carolina, about 60 miles north. Georgetown is the third oldest town in South Carolina and the county seat of Georgetown County, in the Lowcountry. Located on Winyah Bay at the confluence of the Black, Great Pee Dee, Waccamaw, and Sampit rivers, Georgetown is the second largest seaport in South Carolina, handling over 960,000 tons of materials a year, while Charleston is the largest.

This was a long day for Captain Pat. We followed a buddy boat – fellow loopers we met at the marina in Charleston. Mitch and Anne are sailing the Loop in their Camano Trawler – “No Rush” – something we need to abide by! We both anchored out for the evening and agreed to meet for breakfast the next morning and take a quick look around Georgetown.

Nebo Stats for May 30: traveled 8.5 hours; 56.5 kmiles; averaged 6.6 knots

Tuesday, May 31, we got in our dinghy and met Anne and Mitch at the Georgetown docks. I love eating breakfast out so this was a treat. And this was a Southern restaurant – Aunny’s – that served grits!

Such a small world – over breakfast we learned Anne summer camped as a kid in Wolfeboro, New Hampshire, and she and Mitch are very familiar with Lake Winnipesaukee.

Georgetown is a charming town with waterfront shopping, fresh shrimp and historic tours. We departed about 10 a.m. en route to Myrtle Beach, where we had reservations at Osprey Marina. This turned out to be one of our favorite spots.

Nebo Stats for May 31: traveled 4.5 hours; 28.1 kmiles; averaged 6 knots

When docked in Charleston we looked across the harbor and could see “The Fighting Lady” – the USS Yorktown Aircraft Carrier. Sunday, May 29, we took a water taxi over to the ship to tour her.

Crossing the harbor in the water taxi was itself an adventure. The captain maneuvering the boat has to know what he’s doing – the waters are so choppy, it’s like being on the ocean. His dock hand was adept too, grabbing the lines and securing the taxi as we stopped. She hurt her hand at one point. Patrick pointed out on the trip over the front line was frayed, about to break. Sure enough it did break later but she was quick to replace it.

The USS Yorktown is one of 24 Essex-class aircraft carriers built during World War II for the United States Navy. Initially to have been named Bonhomme Richard, she was renamed Yorktown while still under construction, after the Yorktown-class aircraft carrier USS Yorktown (CV-5), which was sunk at the Battle of Midway. (My father served in the Navy at the Battle of Midway.) She is the fourth U.S. Navy ship to bear the name, though the previous ships were named for 1781 Battle of Yorktown.

Yorktown was commissioned in April 1943, and participated in several campaigns in the Pacific Theater of Operations, earning 11 battle stars and the Presidential Unit Citation.

To give you an idea of her size – when we reserve a slip at a marina, we first say name of motor vessel – Sunshine – then they ask for length, beam and draft of the vessel. For Sunshine, length is 34 feet; beam 12.5 feet; draft 3.5 feet. For Yorktown, the length is 820 feet; beam 93 feet; draft 34 feet!

The tour was beyond our expectations. You can see in the photos below. What impressed me most was how the sailors, marines, air crew, and soldiers fought with little technology. And how young and innocent they were! We saw a video of life on the ship. The planes would come crashing on the aircraft carrier, some on fire, some missing parts. Smoke was everywhere, men running rampant to rescue plane and pilot. And the pilot would miraculously climb out of the top of the plane. Or not.

It really gives new meaning to the words we utter to service men and women – “Thank you for your service.” There just are no words to express the gratitude warranted. To all of you we send much respect and admiration.

Charleston was a delight to visit. City leaders long ago implemented preservation efforts to ensure Charleston’s history and southern charm remains intact. There are no skyscrapers. Church steeples peek out along the skyline as they are the highest structures here.

Charleston – nicknamed “the Holy City” – has been known for its religious tolerance since the 1700s. People from all over the world flocked to Charleston for religious freedom, so you’ll find several different Protestant denominations in addition to historic synagogues and Roman Catholic churches.

St. Michael’s is the oldest surviving religious building. The current church was build in the 1750s. It sits on the corners of Meeting and Broad Street. This intersection is often referred to as the “Four Corners of Law” as on each corner there is a building that represents federal, state, local and religious law: the U.S. Post office, the Federal Courthouse, the Charleston County Courthouse, Charleston City Hall and St. Michael’s.

We chartered a tour bus on Saturday, May 28, and learned so much about this historical city. Here are some highlights:

Charleston “Single” Homes

The “single” house is an architectural style exclusive to Charleston. This home plan gives the city much of its unique charm. The layout of a single house is ideally suited to the narrow street-facing lots originally laid out in the late 17th and 18th centuries. The homes are only one room wide and two rooms deep on each level with a central hall in between.

Typically a porch, known as a piazza, runs the length of the house with a public door facing the street. Visitors must enter the home through this entrance and traverse the porch before entering the central private door into the home.

To take best advantage of prevailing breezes, piazzas always face south or west.

Carolopolis Awards

One way to promote the historical integrity of the buildings and homes in Charleston is the awarding of Carolopolis Awards. Building owners are recognized for restoring old structures while maintaining their original foundations.

You will see the award affixed to structures throughout the Historic District, the French Quarter, and beyond. It is a circular plaque mingling English and Latin around an engraving resembling the City of Charleston seal. The image reflects the city’s motto: Aedes mores juraque curat which means “She guards her buildings, customs, and laws.” This comes form the Latin Carolus for “Charles” – that’s King Charles, for whom Carolina is named, and the Greek polis meaning city.

After nearly 70 years and more than 1400 awards given, this award is a major part of the fabric of the city and the buildings and structures it honors.

Earthquake Bolts

Charleston has endured many storms and earthquakes. “Earthquake bolts” were added to many buildings that survived or were built after the devastating quake that shook Charleston August 31, 1886. This was one of the largest earthquakes ever recorded on the Eastern seaboard, with at least 60 fatalities.

Builders then began installing reinforcement bolts to strengthen buildings. Earthquake bolts have two parts – a plate and an iron rod. The plate on the outside of the building connects to the rod that passes through the building and then bolts to the timber frame on the interior.

The plates are visible on the outside wall. Some are crafted as decorative elements, such as crosses, circular scrolls or stars.

The Gullah Culture

The Gullah are African Americans who live in the Lowcountry region of the U.S. They developed a creole language, also called Gullah, and a culture with significant African influence.

They are known for creating the sweetgrass baskets – all different kinds – and selling them around Charleston.

Historically the Gullah region extended from the Cape Fear area on the North Carolina coast, south to Jacksonville, Florida.

The Citadel – The Military College of South Carolina

Known simply as “the Citadel,” this institution was established in 1842 and is one of six senior military colleges in the U.S. It has 18 academic departments, divided into five schools offering 31 majors and 57 minors.

The South Carolina Corps of Cadets number 2,300 and is one of the largest uniformed bodies in the U.S. Approximately 1,350 non-cadet students are enrolled in Citadel Graduate College. Women comprise 9% of the Corps and 22% of the overall enrollment.

The sprawling campus is most impressive. Statues, memorials, and planes, helicopters, tanks and other artifacts representing all branches of the Armed Services adorn the well manicured grounds. Next time I’m in Charleston I want to take a tour of this college.

Wentworth Mansion

Built in 1886 as a private residence for wealthy cotton merchant Francis Silas Rodgers, it is now a popular National Historic landmark. Rodgers had a family of 13 children and he desired to create a stunning estate in the heart of Charleston. The structure is massive – four stories tall and 24,000 square feet. It sits at the intersection of Wentworth and Smith Streets.

Awe-inspiring details include Philadelphia pressed brick, Tiffany stained-glass windows and a bas-relief cornice above the dining room window depicting a cotton plant, emblematic of Rodgers’ business.

The iconic mansard roof features a large cupola that afforded unrivaled views of Charleston’s neighborhoods.

The house eventually changed hands as the family could no longer afford the upkeep. In 1997 Richard Widman – President of Charming Inns – acquired the site. It is now a posh boutique hotel.

French Quarter District

An icon located in the French Quarter District is the Pink House at 17 Chalmers Street. Some claim this is the oldest masonry residence in Charleston. It has been a tavern + brothel, a law office, a private residence, an art gallery, and most recently a place for swooning Instagrammers to capture that perfect picturesque shot.

The structure’s pink exterior, original gambrel tiled roof and cobblestone road capture several iconic staples of Charleston.

Haint Blue

I love the color blue – U.K. Blue, robin egg blue, ocean blue – and it was fun to learn there is a special blue associated with Charleston. It’s called Haint blue.

Haint blue is a collection of pale shades of blue-green that are traditionally used to paint porch ceilings in the U.S. It is also used to paint homes. The tradition originated with the Gullah. This haint blue was believed to ward off haints or ghosts, and keep them away from the home.

The tactic was to mimic the sky, tricking the ghosts to pass through, or to mimic water, which ghosts cannot cross.

The Gullah would paint not only the porch but also the doors, window frames and shutters.

Here are some other sites from our day in Charleston:

Friday, May 27, we docked at Charleston Maritime Center for the weekend. There are many docks to choose from in Charleston. We were glad we chose this one – the staff was so helpful. We were soon on a first-name basis with Peter, Christian and Logan. The USS Yorktown aircraft carrier was just across the waterway. We were steps away from the Ft. Sumter Museum, the Aquarium, and the water taxi. There was a Harris Teeter grocery store I walked to daily. And the laundry facility was free! Score again.

I do not like docking the boat – ever. We were warned about the strong current getting into this marina. We did fine – but did witness a boat crash into a sailboat at the fuel dock!

Here are some pics from our first night in Charleston:

Thursday, May 26 we departed Beaufort and headed to Charleston. We knew we would have to anchor out one night. We ended up at Johns Island.

Again, we passed so many dolphins. They are so elusive – I can never get a decent photo. Here are my meager attempts to capture a shot of the rascals.

This was an exhausting drive, through winding waters, cognizant of the depths – Beaufort River, Brickyard Creek, Rock Creek, and Stono River. We anchored at Johns Island in the Stono River, next to this beautiful blue sailboat that we see often. Captain Pat didn’t sleep well, knowing a storm was brewing.

We woke up to torrential rains. Checked the weather to see when we could leave for Charleston. Captain Pat is good at checking the weather and keeping us safe. We didn’t have to wait too long to depart.

Friday, May 27, we made it to Charleston for the Memorial Day Weekend. We pulled into the Charleston Maritime Center around 11:30 a.m., just in time for low tide to evade the current.

Nebo Stats:

Thursday, May 26: 7 hours travel; 48.5 kmiles; 6.8 knots average speed

Friday, May 27: 2 hours travel; 12.9 kmiles; 6 knots average speed

Wednesday, May 25, we departed St. Catherine’s Island, Georgia, with the intent of making it to South Carolina – not sure where. Captain Pat decided to go “outside” which means travelling on the ocean not the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway). This was our first attempt at an ocean voyage (on the Loop.) Leaving at 10 a.m. we would be in South Carolina by 2 p.m. and make up a lot of time, and bypass all the twists and turns of the Georgia rivers.

We started out with 1 to 2 foot waves – no problem. However, they quickly grew to 3 to 4 and maybe more. It wasn’t the smoothest four hours – but not the worst either.

Coming into the coast I spotted the Beaufort Naval Hospital, and its water tower. I said to Patrick, this is Beaufort! We quickly decided to find a place to anchor. We ended up at the City Marina now owned by a corporation – Safe Harbor.

We know from a recent visit with relatives that Beaufort is an idyllic Southern town. You can remember its pronunciation by equating “beautiful” with the city of “Beaufort.”

The Beaufort waterfront is one of the prettiest in the United States, with flowers, historical monuments, restaurants, swings, and the harbor.

We walked around Beaufort in search of ice cream and stumbled upon Kilwin’s. Then Pat worked in the engine room and we took showers. By that time it was 8:30 p.m. – the latest ever for us to have dinner! The smell of barbecue had been tempting us since we arrived, so we dined at the Q located on the waterfront. Took the dinghy back to the boat and ended the night.

Nebo Stats for Wednesday, May 28: 6.5 hours travel; 61.0 kmiles; 9.6 knots average speed – fast one for Captain Patrick!

Monday, May 23, we departed Fernandina Beach and headed to Brunswick Landing Marina where we had reservations for the evening. Brunswick, founded in 1771, is the second largest city on the Georgia coast. The marina was most friendly and offered many social events, such as happy hours, movie nights, etc.

This was a functional stop – fuel fill-up; pumpout; and laundry. The Great Loop blog informs you to bring $1 and $5 bills (tips for the marine hands who help you dock, etc.) and quarters for the laundry facility. I was prepared with both. However, we were pleasantly surprised there was no charge for our first laundry visit! Score! Probably won’t see that again.

Nebo Stats for Monday, May 23: 5 hours travel; 36.1 kmiles; and 7.2 knots average speed

Tuesday, May 24, we departed Brunswick with the intent to make it up the Georgia rivers as far as we can to be in South Carolina Wednesday. We travelled through Brunswick, Turtle, North, and Medway Rivers and passed Jekyll and Simon Islands. We stopped that evening and anchored at St. Catherine’s Island on Walburg Creek. Our handy Looper Companion Guide helped us find the anchorage. We saw another Looper boat there – Indigo – and touched base with them.

Nebo Stats for Tuesday, May 24: 8 hours 15 minutes travel; 58 kmiles; and 7.0 knots average speed – another long day for Captain Pat!